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5-Day Winter Adventure in Hokkaido: Glowing Streets of History and Culture Around Hakodate & Sapporo

5-Day Winter Adventure in Hokkaido: Glowing Streets of History and Culture Around Hakodate & Sapporo

Date published: 4 February 2022

Unlike mainland Japan, much of the recent history of Hokkaido is based around pioneering. Remnants of this history can still be viewed today in Hokkaido's southern (Donan) area.

Here, a Hokkaido local will introduce a comprehensive 5-day southwestern Hokkaido winter travel itinerary! This fun winter trip centers around the areas of Noboribetsu, Hakodate, and Sapporo.

Table of Contents
  1. Day 1: New Chitose Airport → Noboribetsu
  2. Day 2: Noboribetsu→Hakodate
  3. Day 3: Hakodate City
  4. Day 4: Hakodate→Sapporo
  5. Day 5: Sapporo→New Chitose Airport
  6. A Different Side of Japanese History and Culture in Hokkaido

Travel easier with the JR Hokkaido Rail Pass
While renting a car in Hokkaido is handy, in winter, it can be hazardous for those not used to driving in snow. For this reason, we recommend using public transport in our southern Hokkaido winter itinerary. Conveniently, the JR Hokkaido Rail Pass offers unlimited travel on JR trains and buses at an excellent rate.

Day 1: New Chitose Airport → Noboribetsu

10:30am: Chow Down on an “Ekiben” While Traveling to Donan

This ekiben bento boasts Sakhalin surf clam from Tomakomai.
This ekiben bento boasts Sakhalin surf clam from Tomakomai.

First, we’ll head for Minami-Chitose Station, one stop away from New Chitose Airport Station. Here we'll change to the Hokuto limited express train heading in the direction of Donan.

In Japan, it’s popular to purchase a Hokkaido “ekiben” bento box to eat on the train, allowing insight into the food culture of the region.

Thankfully, the platform of Minami-Chitose Station boasts a wide selection of ekiben. We recommend getting the “Hokki Meshi” (1,000 yen including tax), which flaunts juicy “hokki” Sakhalin surf clam cooked together with rice.

12:30pm: Noboribetsu Date Jidai Village - Step Back In Time to a Ninja Village

Enter an authentic Edo period world! (Photo courtesy of: Noboribetsu Date Jidai Village).
Enter an authentic Edo period world! (Photo courtesy of: Noboribetsu Date Jidai Village).

From Noboribetsu Station, change to a bus and head for the Noboribetsu Date Jidai Village.

This region was pioneered by descendants of Katakura Kagetsuna, a subordinate of the lord of the Sendai Domain (present-day Miyagi Prefecture), Date Masamune (1567-1636).

The Noboribetsu Date Jidai Village is a cultural theme park recreating the townscape of Sendai when it was ruled by Date Masamune during the Edo period.

Dynamic shows are held at the theater (Photo courtesy of Noboribetsu Date Jidai Village).
Dynamic shows are held at the theater (Photo courtesy of Noboribetsu Date Jidai Village).

Stepping into the village, you’ll instantly be transported into the world of Edo Japan. From encountering villagers with the iconic topknot hairstyle to viewing intense ninja shows at the theater and even checking out some bizarre and amusing period comedies, there’s easily a day’s worth of fun to be had here. There’s also a katana and ninja museum for a deeper understanding of ancient Japan.

Their website is available in English, Chinese, Korean, and Thai.

Noboribetsu Date Jidai Village
・53-1 Nakanoboribetsucho, Noboribetsu, Hokkaido 059-0463
・Hours:
-(Summer) April 1 - October 31: 9:00am - 5:00pm
-(Winter) November 1 - March 31: 9:00am - 4:00pm
・Admission:
-Adults (middle school and above): 2,900 yen
-Children (elementary school): 1,600 yen
・Closed: From November 2020, a temporary opening schedule has been set up. However, depending on the day, the schedule is subject to change, so please confirm online before visiting.

5:00pm: The Devil Flame Road - Enter a Hellish Landscape at Noboribetsu Hot Spring

Matsuura Takeshiro, the godfather of Hokkaido, also visited this region.
Matsuura Takeshiro, the godfather of Hokkaido, also visited this region.

Catch a taxi from Noboribetsu Date Jidai Village to head towards tonight’s accommodation at Noboribetsu Onsen.

With nine different kinds of geothermal waters, Noboribetsu is one of Japan’s leading hot spring resorts, boasting a whopping 10,000 tons of water welling from the ground each day, equaling 3,000 liters per minute.

These natural reserves became known during the Edo period when Hokkaido began to be seriously pioneered and were said to have been visited in 1845 by explorer Matsuura Takeshiro, the godfather of Hokkaido. There are up to 14 different hotels and traditional ryokan inns dotting the area providing exceptional service.

From the darkness rises the beauty of nature.
From the darkness rises the beauty of nature.

Nearby the town is the “Hell Valley,” which brims with hot springs and steam spurting up from the earth weaving together an otherworldly, hellish landscape.

After sunset, the walkway becomes illuminated as the Devil Flame Road begins, allowing you to witness this intense scenery rising out of the darkness.

Recommended Accommodation In Noboribetsu:

Day 2: Noboribetsu→Hakodate

10:00am: Toy & Art Museum Kitano - Discover the History of Retro Japanese Toys

A private collection of Japanese toys (Photo courtesy of: Ichirowo)
A private collection of Japanese toys (Photo courtesy of: Ichirowo)

On Day 2 of our southern Hokkaido winter itinerary, before heading to Hakodate, take a quick detour at the Toy & Art Museum Kitano near Noboribetsu Station.

This gigantic assortment of toys was amassed privately by the owner, who runs a toy store and worked by himself and with acquaintances to collect over 10,000 items.

The first floor exhibits handicrafts, old coins, and antique tools, while the second has masks, matchbox cars, figurines, and more. There’s no greater joy than coming across a toy you played with during your childhood!

While there’s no foreign language support, there are plenty of famous Japanese characters known worldwide, making it fun for everyone!

  • Toy & Art Museum Kitano
    古趣北乃博物館
    • Address 2-27-3 Noboribetsuhigashi, Noboribetsu 059-0464
    • Phone Number 080-8295-7363
    • ・Hours: 10:00am - 4:00pm
      ・Admission:
      - Adults: 500 yen
      - Children younger than high school: 200 yen
      ・Closed: Irregular
      *Confirm by calling a day in advance

1:30pm: Hakodate - Tour the Exotic Streets of This One-of-a-Kind City

Hakodate was one of the first cities in Japan to be introduced to western culture.
Hakodate was one of the first cities in Japan to be introduced to western culture.

Hakodate is one of the most unique cities in Japan and boasts an incredible array of historic sites and buildings.

Humans began residing in the region around 5,000 years ago, and there has been a multitude of relics from the Jomon period unearthed around the Minami Kayabe area and others.

In addition, western culture was introduced to Hakodate earlier than most Japanese regions, with Hakodate Port being opened to the world after the Bakufu and American envoy Matthew Perry signed the Convention of Kanagawa in 1854.

Dotting almost every corner of the city is gorgeous, diverse architecture perfectly encapsulating the streetscapes of the time.

Fortunately, Hakodate has a convenient network of trams and buses, making sightseeing easy. Several thrifty ticket plans are available, such as the 1-Day Tram Pass and the Hakodate Tram/Bus 1-Day Pass or 2-Day Pass.

2:00pm: Hakodate Ramen - Feast on One of Hokkaido’s Big 3 Ramens

The lightly flavored Hakodate salt ramen.
The lightly flavored Hakodate salt ramen.

Sapporo, Asahikawa, and Hakodate make up Hokkaido’s Big 3 Ramen Cities.

Most Hakodate ramen stands out for its light salt flavoring and clear broth. Ramen was said to have first appeared in Hakodate in 1884, with a newspaper at the time advertising it as “Nanjing Soba for 15 sen” (the currency at the time), making many believe it to be Japan’s first ramen.

Within the city are over 150 ramen outlets, all competing to make their flavor stand out. Many are concentrated around Hakodate Station, making it a great way to warm your body before exploring the city.

3:00pm: Hakodate Russian Orthodox Church - Solemnly Watching Over the Streets of Hakodate

The church bells ring gracefully.
The church bells ring gracefully.

A 10-minute walk from Jujigai Station, the Hakodate Russian Orthodox Church was built in 1860 as a center of worship attached to the consulate.

While it burnt down during the Great Fire of Hakodate in 1907, it was rebuilt in 1916 and remains to this day. The brick building is coated in white plaster, while the green roof is made from copper plating.

There are six crown-shaped dome towers on the roof, and the crosses attached to each diligently watch over the city of Hakodate.

The Hakodate Official Travel Guide website presents a wealth of information on local sightseeing spots like this in English, Chinese, Thai, and Indonesian.

*Due to preservation repair work, visitation will not be possible from the end of December 2020 to the middle of December 2022.

4:30pm: The Night Scenery from Mt. Hakodate - A Million Dollar View!

The lights of the fishing boats and cityscape weave together a breathtaking panorama.
The lights of the fishing boats and cityscape weave together a breathtaking panorama.

Mt. Hakodate juts out into the ocean like Sakurajima in Kagoshima Prefecture. Utilizing this unique terrain, a fortress was built in 1898 and the entire mountain was made off-limits to civilians as a military base.

Nowadays, frequent bus services and a ropeway allow anyone to ascend the peak to witness the jaw-dropping night scenery dubbed “the million-dollar view.” You’ll be utterly spellbound at the vast sea of lights woven together by the cityscape alongside the plethora of fishing boats dotting the horizon.

  • Mt. Hakodate Ropeway
    函館山ロープウェイ
    • Address 19-7 Motomachi, Hakodate City 040-0054
    • Phone Number 0138-23-3105
    • ・Hours: From 11:30am (last trip up 8:50pm, last trip down 9:00pm)
      *Hours are currently shortened.
      ・Admission (round trip):
      - Adults (middle school and older): 1,500 yen
      - Children: 700 yen
      ・Closed: Open daily

7:30pm: Yunokawa Onsen - Heal Fatigue and Nourish the Soul

Soak in an onsen hot spring while gazing at Mt. Hakodate.
Soak in an onsen hot spring while gazing at Mt. Hakodate.

Take the tram from Jujigai Station to Yunokawa Onsen Station to arrive at the night’s accommodation of Yunokawa Onsen.

Being the largest onsen hot spring town in Donan, Yunokawa Onsen stretches from the inland side near the station all the way to the coastline of Hakodate.

There are plenty of facilities with open-air baths allowing you to soak in nourishing sodium calcium-chloride thermal waters while being hypnotized by the lights of fishing boats in the distance.

Recommended Accommodation In Yunokawa Onsen:

  • Wakamatsu Ryokan
    • Address 1-2-27 Yunokawacho, Hakodate-shi, Hokkaido, 042-0932
      View Map
    • Nearest Station Yunokawa-onsen Station (Hakodate Tram Line 2 / Hakodate Tram Line 5 )
      9 minutes on foot

    Vacancy search, reservation

    Check with our partner site as the latest rates, rate details, and guest room requirements may vary.

Day 3: Hakodate City

10:00am: Hakodate Morning Market - Fresh Seafood and an Electrifying Atmosphere

We particularly recommend the fresh squid!
We particularly recommend the fresh squid!

One of the most popular attractions in Hakodate is the Hakodate Morning Market, located right by Hakodate Station.

Beginning as a post-war black market, it has since flourished to a space of roughly 30,000 m² containing around 250 outlets.

The market is split into several areas, mostly concentrated around fresh fish alongside vegetables, fruits, dried food, confectionery, and clothing.

At the Ekini Market is the Live Squid Fishing Moat, where you can fish for squid to eat on-site. There are English, Chinese, Korean, and other pamphlets available, so you’ll easily find a store that piques your interest!

Market Hours:
- January - April: 6:00am - 2:00pm
- May - December: 5:00am - 1:00pm
*May change depending on the individual store

12:00pm: Lucky Pierrot Jujigai Ginza - Be Welcomed By 5,000 Santas

The peculiar yet delightful interior of Lucky Pierrot (Photo courtesy of: Lucky Pierrot).
The peculiar yet delightful interior of Lucky Pierrot (Photo courtesy of: Lucky Pierrot).

For lunch in Hakodate, take the tram to Jujigai Station to visit Lucky Pierrot, one of Hakodate’s must-visit eateries beloved in the Donan region.

Here you can select from a diverse range of 26 unique burgers, including tantalizing Chinese chicken and tonkatsu, alongside additional eats like omurice, curry, yakisoba noodles, and more.

Each of the 17 Lucky Pierrots were made to be totally different, treating guests to an entirely new encounter each time. The Lucky Pierrot Jujigai Ginza store was conceived around the wish for everyone to feel Christmas love all the time, leading to an interior display of roughly 5,000 Santa decorations.

  • Lucky Pierrot Jujigai Ginza
    ラッキーピエロ 十字街銀座店
    • Address 8-11 Suehiro-cho, Hakodate City 040-0053
    • Phone Number 0138-23-2300
    • ・Hours: 10:00am - 9:00pm
      ・Closed: Open daily

1:30pm: Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse - A Shopping Complex by the Harbor

Get your Hakodate shopping fix here!
Get your Hakodate shopping fix here!

After lunch, get your shop on at the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse next to Lucky Pierrot Jujigai Ginza.

This shopping complex is housed in a renovated former storehouse separated into the three sections of BAY HAKODATE, which hosts shops, restaurants, and an event hall, Youbutsukan, specializing in imported luxuries like antiques, and the exhibition space and beer hall Hakodate History Plaza.

At the annual Hakodate Christmas Fantasy event held in December, a giant Christmas tree is displayed on the water facing the warehouses, a gift from the sister city of Halifax in Canada.

The Hakodate Official Travel Guide website presents a wealth of information on local sightseeing spots like this in English, Chinese, Thai, and Indonesian.

  • Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse
    函館・赤レンガ倉庫群
    • Address 13-9 Suehirocho, Hakodate City 040-0053
    • Phone Number 0138-27-5530
    • ・Hours:
      - Shops: 9:30am - 6:00pm
      - Hakodate Beer Hall: 11:30am - 9:00pm (weekdays, last call 8:30pm), 11:00am - 9:00pm (weekends, public holidays, last call 8:30pm)
      *Hours may change depending on the situation.
      ・Closed: December 31, January 1

4:00pm: Goryokaku Park - A Star-Shaped Citadel Colored By the Seasons

A star-shaped citadel.
A star-shaped citadel.

Board the tram for Goryokaku-Koen-Mae Station and walk 15 minutes to Goryokaku Park. This profoundly historic location served as the stage for the final battle during the Boshin War between 1868 to 1869 as the new government of the Imperial Court fought the ruling Tokugawa shogunate.

After the conclusion of the Battle of Hakodate, the area was opened to the public as a park in 1914. Goryokaku is a prime example of a bastion-style fortress, which is rare in Japan.

The “Star Dream” illumination.
The “Star Dream” illumination.

Between early December and the end of February, the citadel is magnificently illuminated at the Star Dream event, which sees 2,000 light bulbs form a shining star around the moat. Visitors to the observation deck at the top of Goryokaku Tower will be able to witness this breathtaking spectacle in all its glory.

The Hakodate Official Travel Guide website presents a wealth of information on local sightseeing spots like this in English, Chinese, Thai, and Indonesian.

(*Goryokaku Tower opening hours have been shortened to 9:00am - 6:00pm for the foreseeable future.)

Recommended Accommodation In Hakodate:

Day 4: Hakodate→Sapporo

For the 4th of our southern Hokkaido winter itinerary, we’ll leave Hakodate and travel to Sapporo, roughly 4 hours by train or a 40-minute flight to Sapporo Okadama Airport within the city.

A flight will cost somewhere between 10,000 - 20,000 yen, while a one-way trip on the special rapid will be around 9,000 yen. Considering the substantial time difference, it may be worth paying that extra bit for a plane ticket to save time and pack more into your trip.

Hakodate Airport can be reached via a 20-minute bus ride from Yunokawa Onsen.

11:00pm: Toi-san Hon Maguro Tuna - Relish a Seafood Bowl at Pollux in Hakodate Airport

Too delicious for words! (Photo courtesy of: Hakodate Airport Building)
Too delicious for words! (Photo courtesy of: Hakodate Airport Building)

Pollux, a restaurant in Hakodate Airport, serves the much-coveted “Hakodate Toi-san Hon Maguro Tuna Bowl” for 2,050 yen (including tax), which boasts tuna caught in the nearby Tsugaru Strait.

This kind of fish rose to prominence after a 342kg catch was sold at Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market for a record-breaking price (at the time) of over US$280,000 in 2011.

The fish are immediately bled on the boat before being put in icy water to cool as the boat returns to the harbor. This reduces discoloration and oxidation of the flesh, keeping it fresh until served.

Time spent waiting for your flight doesn’t have to be a waste with a heavenly bowl of hon maguro tuna to chow down on! (servings are limited).

  • Pollux
    レストラン ポルックス
    • Address 511 Takamatsucho, Hakodate, 042-0952
    • Phone Number 0138-57-8884
    • ・Hours: 11:00am - around 7:30pm
      *Operates in correspondence with the final boarding schedule.
      ・Closed: Open daily

2:00pm: Travel From Sapporo Okadama Airport to the City Center

The subway trains use rubber tires, a rarity in Japan.
The subway trains use rubber tires, a rarity in Japan.

Take a roughly 5-minute bus ride from Okadama Airport to the nearest station of Sakaemachi (Sapporo City Subway-Toho Line) and head towards the Sapporo city center.

The most popular places to stay in Sapporo include the convenient Sapporo Station area, the entertainment district of Susukino, and the shopping town of Odori, so choose one based on your style of trip. After checking in and leaving your luggage, it’s time to get out and dive into the bustling urban streetscape of Sapporo City!

4:00pm: Sapporo Clock Tower - Diligently Keeping Residents on Time

The bell rings every hour.
The bell rings every hour.

The Sapporo Clock Tower is located near the hotels of Sapporo Station and Odori.

One of Sapporo’s leading landmarks, it was originally constructed in 1878 as part of the drill hall for the Sapporo Agricultural College, the predecessor to Hokkaido University.

On the 1st-floor exhibition space are displays detailing the clock towers of the world along with the cultural assets of Sapporo and Hokkaido. The 2nd floor is a rental space holding concerts and events.

4:30pm: Former Hokkaido Government Office - A Classy Red Brick Building Bursting with European Elegance

An enchanting light up from the evening.
An enchanting light up from the evening.

The Former Hokkaido Government Office, just a 5-minute walk from the Sapporo Clock Tower, is a grandiose red brick building in American-style Baroque Revival architecture. It served the government of Hokkaido for around 80 years from 1888 until the completion of a new office. During winter, the bricks burst with stark color against the white snow, forming an enchanting, nostalgic atmosphere.

Inside is a free museum exhibiting the history of Hokkaido. However, it is currently closed for renovations in 2022.

7:00pm: Sapporo Beer Garden - Say “Kanpai” in a Deeply Historical Building

Rare, limited-edition brews can be enjoyed here.
Rare, limited-edition brews can be enjoyed here.

Move from Sapporo Station to the next stop of Naebo Station and walk to the Sapporo Beer Garden. Beer was first brewed here in 1876 after the pioneering “Kaitakushi” government of Hokkaido opened the Sapporo Kaitakushi Beer Brewery. It has now been revamped as the Sapporo Beer Garden, serving locals and visitors alike freshly brewed beer with the local dish of jingisukan. This is a great place to have fun and end your final night in Hokkaido with a bang!

  • Sapporo Beer Garden
    サッポロビール園
    • Address 9 Chome-2-10 Kita 7 Johigashi, Higashi Ward, Sapporo 065-0007
    • ・TEL: 0120-150-550 (Sapporo Beer Garden Reservation Center)
      ・Hours: 11:30am - 9:00pm (last call: 8:40pm)
      ・Closed: December 31

Recommended Accommodation In Sapporo:

Day 5: Sapporo→New Chitose Airport

11:00am: Historical Village of Hokkaido - Be Transported Back to the Days of Pioneering

The Historical Village of Hokkaido, the first stop on the final day, can be reached by riding the Sapporo City Subway Tozai Line from Odori Station for Shin Sapporo Station (20 mins) and then taking a JR bus for another 20 minutes.

The 54-hectare grounds painstakingly recreate authentic pioneering scenery allowing valuable insight into the history of Hokkaido.

The entrance is a reconstruction of the former Sapporo Railway Station as it appeared in 1908.
The entrance is a reconstruction of the former Sapporo Railway Station as it appeared in 1908.

The Historical Village of Hokkaido opened in 1983 with 52 buildings from the Meiji and early Showa periods relocated from across Hokkaido and reassembled on the grounds.

It serves as an open-air museum telling the stories and showcasing the lifestyles of the pioneering generations. The village is split into the “residential,” “fishing village,” “farming village,” and “mountain village” sections, and there are horse-drawn coaches during summer and sleighs during winter.

The facilities also aspire to pass down traditional techniques and games while flaunting the wisdom and remarkable work ethic of these ancient people.

At the Historical Village of Hokkaido food hall are rare, one-of-a-kind dishes like the “Ezo Deer Jingisukan Set” with genuine wild game meat (1,550 yen including tax), and the simplistic yet nourishing flavors of the “Tondenhei Set” (1,030 yen including tax). As it takes a while to explore the village fully, we suggest dedicating the majority of your last day to it.

The Historical Village of Hokkaido official homepage has English, Chinese, and Korean language options along with a pamphlet in each language.

6:00pm: Have Fun Before Your Flight at New Chitose Airport

There’s lots of food and shopping to enjoy at New Chitose Airport.
There’s lots of food and shopping to enjoy at New Chitose Airport.

Take a bus from the Historical Village of Hokkaido back to Shin-Sapporo Station and board the Airport Rapid train to New Chitose Airport (approx. 30 mins).

While waiting for your flight, enjoy a final shop at the fantastic range of airport stores alongside a theme park, cinema, and hot spring! A great way for a final bit of fun before heading back!

A Different Side of Japanese History and Culture in Hokkaido

As your plane takes off and the glittering lights of Sapporo disappear into darkness, you’re left with the joy of reminiscing over your fantastic Hokkaido trip.

It has been around 150 years since pioneering began in Hokkaido, and while this trip thoroughly explored this relatively recent industrial history, there’s also the rich and profound cultures of the native Ainu people and the ancient Jomon period and more to explore, giving travelers plenty of reasons to return.

But until then, we hope this Hokkaido itinerary will get your preliminary trip started on the right foot!

Text by: Masakazu

*The information presented in this article is accurate as of January 2022. Please confirm the latest details on official websites.

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*This information is from the time of this article's publication.
*Prices and options mentioned are subject to change.
*Unless stated otherwise, all prices include tax.

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