Initially drawn to Shiretoko by the allure of its winter ice floes, Lan officially set foot in Shiretoko in 2016, becoming a part of the local community.

After living in Shiretoko for a while, she noticed that many foreigners were unfamiliar with the charms of Shiretoko beyond its winter wonders, and she found this to be a great pity.

So Lan decided to earn certifications such as Hokkaido Outdoor Guide and Shiretoko Five Lakes Certified Guide. During winter, she guides tourists on ice-walking tours. In summer, she leads excursions around the Five Lakes of Shiretoko, helping others experience the captivating natural world of Shiretoko in-depth.

In her spare time, Lan shares her life in Shiretoko on her Facebook fan page, It's Hokkaido 北海道・道東生活 and her website (https://itshokkaido.com/). She hopes to introduce Shiretoko to a broader audience and let more people get to know this extraordinary place!

In summer, Shiretoko becomes a vibrant world of greenery and vitality, quite different from its winter wonderland. It's the perfect time to observe the area's abundant natural wonders.

You can follow guides into the forests, take boat trips to the remote Cape Shiretoko, and immerse yourself in the diverse charms of the region.

During this season, not only international tourists but also many Japanese visitors come to experience Shiretoko. Summer is undeniably the most popular and suitable period for sightseeing in Shiretoko.

Though the average summer temperature in Shiretoko is around 20°C (68°F), it can get as high as 25°C to 30°C (77°F to 86°F) in late July and August, sometimes even exceeding 30°C (86°F).

However, it can cool down to 20°C (68°F) or even lower after rain or in the evenings, creating significant temperature fluctuations. Therefore, it's essential to bring thin long-sleeved shirts and a jacket to stay warm.

The weather can be quite unpredictable, and forecasts may not always be accurate. Carrying an umbrella while wandering in the forest is inconvenient, and using an umbrella on a windy boat trip is also impractical. Hence, Lan suggests bringing a raincoat for better preparedness.

Shiretoko has no railway system, so most transportation is by car. If you're starting your journey from Sapporo, you can take the JR train to Abashiri Station or Kushiro Station and then transfer to the JR Senmo Line to JR Shiretoko-Shari Station (the cost may vary depending on the transfer stations and trains, and the journey takes around 6 hours).

From JR Shiretoko-Shari Station, you can take a direct bus that will take around 50 minutes to reach the main tourist area of Shiretoko - Utoro.

Local sightseeing mainly relies upon cars as the primary mode of transportation, or you can easily plan your bus schedule by checking it online in advance. Additionally, many local tour operators in Shiretoko provide shuttle services, so if you don't drive, there's no need to worry when visiting Shiretoko in the summer.

However, the most convenient way to explore Shiretoko in summer is undoubtedly by driving yourself! Lan recommends renting a car at Memanbetsu Airport or JR Abashiri Station and driving to Utoro, which takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes. Driving will give you more freedom and flexibility, making it especially suitable for families with children.

During summer, Shiretoko tourism is bustling, attracting a large number of Japanese tourists.

Besides arranging accommodation in advance, booking sightseeing activities ahead of time is also highly recommended.

Popular activities like guided tours around the Five Lakes of Shiretoko and boat excursions often have limited capacity and tend to fill up quickly, especially during weekends, Japanese national holidays, and the summer Obon season.

Be aware that not all guides are proficient in foreign languages, and fewer than ten guides can conduct tours in English. Lan is the only guide who can lead tours in Chinese, making it advisable to sign up at least two months in advance to secure a spot.

However, if you cannot book a guided tour in a language you understand, don't worry.

Lan assures that guides will do their best to communicate through gestures, illustrations, or other supplementary means.

By patiently listening and observing, you can still grasp the main points and enjoy the beautiful attractions of Shiretoko.

Usually, the internet connection near the main tourist area of Utoro is reliable. However, the signal may gradually weaken once you venture away from the more populated streets and buildings.

This is especially true for many less-developed sightseeing areas, where it's pretty common to have no internet access.

Therefore, it's highly recommended to download all the necessary information before your departure. This includes bus schedules, operating hours, locations of attractions, and more.

Don't rely on checking these details on the go; you might become frustrated if you can't get a signal. Be prepared and store all the essential information offline to avoid any unexpected hiccups during your trip.

Shiretoko takes pride in its pristine natural environment, home to various wild animals, including massive brown bears.

In summer, it's possible to encounter brown bears while sightseeing. While seeing a bear could be exciting, it's essential to remember that all the brown bears in Shiretoko are wild animals, and it's safest to avoid direct encounters with them.

Lan advises everyone to participate in guided tours led by local experts when exploring forests or engaging in outdoor activities.

When walking, clapping hands and making noise are recommended since most brown bears instinctively avoid humans when they hear a disturbance.

But what if you accidentally encounter a bear?

First and foremost, stay calm and avoid panicking. Do not run or play dead on the spot. Don't try to get closer to the bear or attract its attention with food.

Instead, keep your eyes on the bear and slowly back away to increase the distance between you and the animal.

Suppose you encounter a bear while in a vehicle; stop the car, and wait for the animal to move away before resuming your journey. Avoid opening windows, getting out of the car, or throwing anything out of the vehicle.

If the bear remains stationary, it's advisable to drive around it, keeping at least one lane's distance to avoid startling the bear.

Being attentive to these guidelines will not only protect yourself but also ensure the safety of the local wildlife in Shiretoko.

Shiretoko offers many sea-based activities during the summer, such as canyoning and sea kayaking. For all outdoor excursions, it's highly recommended to sign up for guided tours led by local experts.

Guides prioritize the safety of their customers, and as long as you follow their instructions, you can enjoy your activities with peace of mind, knowing you are in good hands.

If you still have concerns about unexpected situations, Japan has introduced "Special Overseas Travel Insurance for Foreign Visitors," which covers medical expenses for accidents or illnesses. This insurance can be purchased before leaving your home country or upon arrival in Japan. It also provides translation assistance when needed. Having this additional peace of mind beforehand is definitely a good idea.

Compared to winter, Shiretoko summers offer a wider variety of fun, and Lan believes planning a trip for at least three days is well worth it.

Let's follow Lan's suggestions and recommendations to explore the exciting possibilities of a summer self-guided trip. With activities suitable for all ages, anyone can enjoy the recommended itinerary and immerse themselves in the wonders of Shiretoko!

On the first day, you can either rent a car at JR Abashiri Station or take a bus from JR Abashiri Station or JR Shiretoko-Shari Station to Utoro. If you opt for public transportation, take the Shiretoko Line bus from Shari Bus Terminal and get off at Utoro Onsen Bus Terminal.

Since departures are limited, it's essential to check the schedule in advance.

After arriving in Utoro, the first thing to do is to drop off your luggage at the hotel. Here are a few popular accommodations to consider.

Hot Spring Hotels with Dinner Buffet:

Sea Views Surrounded by Nature:

Lan recommends Utoro Gyokyo Fujinbu Shokudo for lunch at Utoro Fisherman's Wharf. This seafood restaurant is run and managed by local fishermen's wives and offers a variety of seafood set meals, including sea urchin, salmon, and chirashi sushi.

They also serve fried pork cutlets, ramen, and more, all at reasonable prices and all incredibly fresh and delicious. The restaurant is so popular that you might have to wait in line to get in, especially on summer weekends.

Lan: "Aside from seafood like sea urchin, I also highly recommend trying the 'hokke' (Arctic char) overnight dried fish set meal. The char from Shiretoko are large and have richly flavored oil, makinthemit quite delicious. If you're looking for something more luxurious, they also offer an overnight dried fish set meal with a premium Hokkaido fish called 'menme' (greenling)."

In summer, taking a sightseeing boat tour is a must! Shiretoko offers two main tour locations: the Rausu whale-watching boat on the east coast and the Utoro sightseeing boat on the west coast.

Here, we'll introduce the Utoro sightseeing boat, which provides a fantastic view of the cliffs, waterfalls, and pristine landscapes of the Shiretoko Peninsula from the sea.

There's also a chance to spot wild animals like brown bears and Ezo deer. It's a relaxing, safe, and comfortable experience that Lan highly recommends for every visitor.

In Utoro, there are multiple sightseeing boat companies, with three operating small boats accommodating 40 to 50 people and one operating a large boat for about 400 people. Prices vary depending on the route and boat type.

There are three main routes to choose from:

1. "Kamuiwakka Waterfall / Mt. Io Route": This route allows you to see the main natural scenery of Shiretoko, including the Kamuiwakka Waterfall. A round trip takes about 1 to 1.5 hours.

2. "Rusha Bay Route": This route takes you to where brown bears are often seen. It also includes the first route (slight variations among companies) and lasts approximately 1 hour 40 minutes to 2 hours.

3. "Cape Shiretoko Coastal Route": This route takes you to the northernmost tip of the Shiretoko Peninsula, where you can see the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Cape Shiretoko, inaccessible on foot or by land. It includes the previous two routes (slight variations among companies) and lasts about 3 to 4 hours.

Regardless of the company, the boat routes are similar, so you can choose which is most convenient for you. If a scheduled boat tour is canceled, the companies will assist in transferring to other available tours.

Lan: "During the boat ride, there's a chance to spot animals on the shores. It's fascinating to see them in their natural habitat without disturbing them, and it feels safe and enjoyable. I personally prefer the smaller boats, as they get closer to the shore, allowing better observation of the landscapes and wildlife. If you want a clearer view, a boat with a telescope will be a great choice!"

After the sightseeing boat tour, it's likely to be evening. You can take a rest and then drive to one of Shiretoko's "Eight Scenic Views," Cape Puyuni.

Situated along the Okhotsk Sea, the cape offers a panoramic view of the sea and Utoro Fisherman's Wharf. It's renowned as one of the best sunset viewing spots in Shiretoko.

Lan recommends, "Facing west, you can witness the sun slowly setting into the sea, painting the ocean with shades of orange and tangerine. It's truly breathtaking." It's worth mentioning that Cape Puyuni is also a famous spot for observing drift ice during the winter.

*In summer, sunset occurs around 6:00 PM to 7:00 PM. If you're not driving, be sure to check the bus schedule at Shiretoko Nature Center in advance.

After enjoying the sunset, the first day's itinerary comes to a close. For dinner, you can head to a restaurant near the Utoro Bus Center. Lan recommends a ramen shop called Namishibuki, located about a 7-minute walk from the bus center. The restaurant has even been featured in the Michelin Guide.

As a local, Lan frequents Namishibuk and says, "In the evening, they serve ramen and yakitori. The food is really delicious, and the place is always busy year-round."

Exploring the hidden gems of Shiretoko Five Lakes with a local guide is highly recommended for the second day's morning adventure!

The guided tour takes you through lush forests and breathtaking natural lakes, providing opportunities to observe Hokkaido's native plants, grazing Ezo deer, and the footprints of brown bears along the way.

Every sight is a treasure; missing out on Shiretoko Five Lakes in the summer would be regrettable.

Shiretoko Five Lakes is open to the public from late April to early November.

During the open season, there are two distinct periods: From May 10th to July 31st, during the "Brown Bear Activity Period," the chances of encountering brown bears are relatively high, and visitors must have a guide to enter Shiretoko Five Lakes.

From April to May 9th and from August 1st to early November, it's the "Vegetation Protection Period," when access is allowed without a guide after receiving safety instructions.

However, encountering brown bears is still possible during this period, and having a guide's explanations enhances the overall experience of exploring Shiretoko Five Lakes. Lan strongly suggests opting for a guided tour to make the most out of the trip.

Depending on one's physical condition or available time, participants can choose one of two guided tour routes. The first route is the 3-kilometer "Boardwalk Trail (Big Loop)," which takes approximately 1.5 to 3 hours to complete.

It allows visitors to explore all five lakes. The second route, "Boardwalk Trail (Small Loop)," is 1.6 kilometers long, focusing on Ichi Lake and Ni Lake, and can be completed in about 40 to 90 minutes.

Regardless of the chosen route, all participants must watch a 10-minute safety briefing video before departure. The footage includes visuals and English subtitles.

It is important to note that there are no restrooms, vending machines, or shops within the Shiretoko Five Lakes area.

Before starting the tour, please make sure to address any personal needs and dining requirements at the Shiretoko Five Lakes Visitor Center.

Also, avoid bringing food and sugary drinks into the area to prevent any negative impact on the local ecosystem. Before entering, participants are required to clean the soles of their shoes to avoid accidentally carrying foreign plant seeds into the area.

In the event of a bear sighting, for the safety of all participants, the guided tour will immediately be suspended and the trails temporarily closed. They will only reopen after confirmation by the authorities. Each guide is allowed to lead a maximum of 10 visitors into the area.

As the only guide who can communicate in Chinese, English, and Japanese, Lan's guided tours are often fully booked during the peak season. Therefore, it is highly recommended to make reservations early to secure a spot on the tour.

After completing the guided tour of Shiretoko Five Lakes, take a break at the Shiretoko Nature Center or Utoro Fishermen's Warf for lunch and to recharge. In the afternoon, return to the Shiretoko Nature Center to participate in another summer-exclusive activity in Shiretoko - the Kamuiwakkayu Hot Falls climbing and trekking expedition!

Kamuiwakka Waterfall is one of the "Shiretoko Eight Views." It is a 20-meter tall, four-tiered waterfall flowing with hot spring water. As you ascend from the lower part to the higher part, the hot spring water content increases, and the temperature gradually rises.

It is an entirely natural, hidden, hot spring. In summer, trekking and climbing along the stream is a pleasant experience. The waterfall is surrounded by vast forests, where you can occasionally see deer, foxes, and bears.

Although the Kamuiwakka Waterfall is only a 20-minute drive from Shiretoko Five Lakes, the road between them is only open from June to October. During the peak season in July and August, you need to take a shuttle bus to get there, and hiking into the waterfall area is only allowed from July to October.

Starting from 2023, advance online reservation is required. The reservation website provides detailed information on preparations, clothing, and route guidance.

*The road to Kamuiwakka is open from June 1 to October 2, but the period to enter the Kamuiwakka Waterfall is only from July 1 to October 1.
*From July 22 to August 19, taking a shuttle bus from the Shiretoko Nature Center is required.

Online reservation for the Kamuiwakka Waterfall does not include a guided tour. However, you can visit the Shiretoko Five Lakes website to find guides who lead this route (some may also offer English services).

Alternatively, some tour operators offer guided tours that include both the Shiretoko Five Lakes and the Kamuiwakka Waterfall.

Although Lan is currently not guiding this specific route, with careful research, preparation, and adherence to safety guidelines, there is no need to worry too much.

Lan highly recommends those who want to experience all of Shiretoko's Eight Views to take advantage of this period to enjoy the water and hot springs.

If you cannot participate in the Kamuiwakka Waterfall trek on the second day, you can rent an electric-assisted E-BIKE at the Shiretoko Nature Center and explore another one of Shiretoko's Eight Views, "Shiretoko-toge Pass."

Shiretoko-toge Pass is at an altitude of 738 meters and offers a close view of the highest peak in Shiretoko, Rausu-dake. The scenery is breathtaking, and you can even see nearby Kunashir Island on clear days.

The bike ride from the Shiretoko Nature Center to Shiretoko-toge Pass takes about one hour one way. Along the way, you can enjoy the refreshing breeze, sunlight, and nature of Shiretoko, and the electric assistance makes the ride less tiring and suitable for adults and children.

Lan adds, "The E-BIKE is a semi-electric model, meaning you still have to pedal when going below 24 kilometers per hour, but it won't be too strenuous. It's great for exploring mountainous roads or strolling around Utoro, offering a unique perspective on Shiretoko's scenery."

*Note that the route to Kamuiwakka Waterfall is a gravel trail and cannot be accessed by E-BIKE. Please refrain from riding to Kamuiwakka Waterfall.

After the day's activities, you can return to the hotel for a shower. Since you've been active all day, Lan recommends booking the hotel's dinner buffet and relaxing in the hot spring to soothe your body and mind.

The last day can be a leisurely one! You can visit the Shiretoko World Heritage Center near Utoro Bus Terminal and explore exhibits showcasing life-size models of local animals like brown bears and sika deer.

It offers an excellent opportunity to get to know Shiretoko, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and learn about the guidelines and latest information for exploring the area.

Next to the Shiretoko World Heritage Center, there is a roadside rest area called Utoro-Shirietoku Rest Area. Inside, you can find a souvenir shop, a seafood market, take-out food, a seafood restaurant, and other facilities. It's a great place to enjoy delicious food, buy local souvenirs, and, as mentioned earlier, rent an E-BIKE for the day's adventure.

Near the Utoro Bus Center, there are several cafes that Lan recommends. One is the guesthouse restaurant, Bon's Home, which specializes in potato dishes, including baked potatoes, creamy mashed potatoes, potato cakes, potato scones, and Lan's personal favorite, the potato pudding.

The potato pudding at Bon's Home is the perfect way to savor the sweet, full flavor of Hokkaido potatoes.

From April to October, Lan recommends a coffee shop called "coffee albireo," run by a couple of wildlife photographers who relocated from Tokyo to Shiretoko.

The shop is open only on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays. It serves handcrafted desserts and coffee, with each rich, aromatic coffee named after local animals like "brown bear," "flying squirrel," and "spectacled guillemot."

In addition to their delightful coffee selection, they also offer different dishes for lunch, such as curry rice and fried rice, which change daily, making it a perfect spot for a relaxing break during your sightseeing journey.

Lan suggests, "Most restaurants in Shiretoko mainly serve seafood dishes, so I highly recommend trying this coffee shop if you want a different taste. It's also a great place to start your day with a delicious breakfast and a cup of coffee."

Next, prepare to leave Utoro and head to the next area. While driving back to Shiretoko Shari or on your way to Abashiri, you can make a detour to visit two of Shiretoko's Eight Beautiful Views - Oshinkoshin Falls and the "The Road to Heaven."

Enjoy the scenery and the refreshing breeze as you imprint the final views of Shiretoko in your mind, continuing your journey through Hokkaido.

The vast natural beauty of Shiretoko presents a completely different landscape in summer compared to winter. With a local guide leading the way during your visit to Shiretoko Five Lakes, you can explore with peace of mind and gain a deeper understanding of the surrounding ecology.

Moreover, you can appreciate the lush forests, shimmering lake waters, and stunning cliffside views without disturbing the local environment.

Shiretoko offers English-guided tours and various establishments with multilingual services, making it an easy and enjoyable experience for international visitors. Don't miss the chance to embrace the beauty of summer in Shiretoko during your trip to Hokkaido!

Discover Shiretoko Peninsula with the Only Chinese-Speaking Guide, click to learn more about Lan's Ecotourism Tour: "LANTOKO Shiretoko Eco Tour"
(LANTOKO Shiretoko Eco Tour)

*The information in this article is based on interviews conducted in July 2023 and may differ from the current situation.