Kumano Sanzan refers to three majestic shrines nestled on Mt. Sanzan in Wakayama Prefecture: Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine, Kumano Hayatama Grand Shrine, and Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine. These revered sites form the spiritual heart of over 4,700 Kumano shrines across Japan. For centuries, this sacred land, believed to be the dwelling place of the gods, has drawn pilgrims and travelers, captivated by its spiritual energy and timeless beauty.

Since ancient times, Kumano has been a place of nature worship, where the gods of trees, rocks, rivers, and waterfalls are believed to reside deep within the mountains. As Buddhism influenced the region from the Nara to Heian periods, Kumano Sanzan came to be seen as the gateway to the Pure Land—a symbol of death and rebirth. By the end of the Heian period, members of the imperial family and court began making pilgrimages to this sacred site, which was revered as a “land of rebirth.”

As faith in Kumano spread from the imperial and aristocratic families to warriors and commoners, people from all walks of life embarked on the challenging pilgrimage through the steep mountains to pray to the gods for happiness in the afterlife.

After arriving at Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine in Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture, pass through the Torii gate and make your way to the stone stairs that lead up to the main shrine.

In keeping with tradition, the center of the path is reserved for the gods, so it's customary to ascend on the right side of the stairs and descend on the left. The path is lined with tall, straight trees, creating a serene atmosphere that feels like a journey toward heaven. Dedication banners flank both sides of the stairway, guiding you to the shrine.

The gods are enshrined in the Goshaden, where the beautiful Kumano-style architecture creates a solemn and reverent atmosphere.

From the front, as seen in the photo, the deities are worshiped in the following order: Third Hall—Fusumi no Okami, Second Hall—Hayatama no Okami, First Hall—the main deity Ketsumimiko no Okami, and Fourth Hall—Amaterasu Omikami. Worship begins by first paying respects to Ketsumimiko no Okami, the main deity.

Join your hands in prayer and clap, just as tens of millions of worshipers have done over the centuries before you.

After worshiping at the Goshaden, be sure to stop by Manzansha, a small shrine nestled nearby in a lush, green setting. Here, worshipers pray for relationships and bonds, such as those between parent and child. It is also where the Saisei no Tamaishi (sacred stone of regeneration) is enshrined.

The large sacred tree, known as the Tarayo no Ki (a species of holly), has broad leaves on which you can scratch letters, earning it the names "postcard tree" and "letter tree." One theory suggests that the Japanese word for "postcard" (hagaki), which literally means “writing on a leaf,” is derived from this tree.

Next to the sacred tree is a black post box topped with a figure of Yatagarasu, a three-legged raven from Japanese mythology. Yatagarasu, also the symbol of the Japan Football Association, is said to have guided Emperor Jimmu from Kumano to Yamato. At Kumano Sanzan, it is revered as a sacred guide and messenger of the gods.

You can even send mail from this Yatagarasu post box. If you visit the shrine office and request to mail something, they will stamp it with the phrase, "Sent from Kumano Hongu with sincerity," making it a special keepsake or gift for a friend or yourself.

Oyunohara, said to be the place where the gods descended, is about a 10-minute walk from Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine. The majestic Torii at Oyunohara stands approximately 35 meters tall and 42 meters wide, making it the largest Grand Torii in Japan.

After visiting the Grand Torii, let’s continue to Kumano Hayatama Grand Shrine.

After about a 50-minute car ride, you will arrive at Kumano Hayatama Grand Shrine in Shingu City. Begin your visit by performing the purification ceremony at the Temizusha. Above the Temizusha, you’ll notice a dragon with a long nose, positioned as if to welcome worshipers.

The brilliant vermilion-lacquered shrine is truly stunning! Kumano Hayatama Grand Shrine is where the gods descended from heaven and are enshrined, marking the birthplace of nature worship, where a megalith is revered as a divine presence. Twelve gods are enshrined here, with the primary deities being Kumano Hayatama no Okami and Kumano Fusumi no Okami.

Above the Shimenawa (sacred festoon) of the Hall of Worship, the words "Japan's First Great Miracle Spot Nemoto Kumano Yuyagon Hall of Worship" are written. The term Gongen refers to the manifestation of Buddha in the form of a Shinto god. The deities of Kumano appear as Buddha to bring salvation to humanity. "Japan’s First Great Miracle Spot" signifies that this was the first to receive the title of Kumano Gongen among the Kumano Sanzan shrines.

Calm your heart and pray for your wishes to be granted.

The sacred giant Asian bayberry tree at Kumano Hayatama Grand Shrine is designated as a natural treasure. Standing around 20 meters tall with a trunk circumference of about 6 meters, it has long been a symbol of protection. Pilgrims traditionally place a leaf from this tree in their pockets as a prayer for a safe journey. Reflecting on the mystical power of this tree, which has taken root and watched over travelers for nearly 1,000 years, fills me with awe.

Let’s first stop by Daimonzaka Chaya at the entrance to Kumano Kodo Daimonzaka, at the base of Mount Nachi. Here, you can dress in Heian period clothing before making your way to Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine, offering a unique experience that feels like stepping back in time to the Heian Period.

After a 30-minute car ride from Kumano Hayatama Grand Shrine, you'll reach the Daimonzaka parking area in Nachikatsuura-cho. From there, it's about a 500-meter walk, where you'll spot the Daimonzaka Chaya paper lantern.

Inside the tea house, you'll find a delightful selection of costumes to choose from. Once you've picked your favorite, a staff member will assist you in getting dressed, which takes about 15 minutes.

In addition to Heian costumes for women, there are also outfits for men and children, so the entire family can enjoy dressing up. Interestingly, many women opt for men’s costumes, and they look incredibly stylish.

The tube worn around the neck is an amulet, and the sash across the chest serves as a charm against evil spirits. During the Heian period, this was how the imperial family and court nobles dressed when they made pilgrimages to Kumano Sanzan.

The two large cedar trees near Daimonzaka Chaya, shown in the photo, are known as the Meoto Sugi (husband and wife cedars). Each tree is estimated to be about 800 years old, with trunk circumferences of over 8 meters. By lightly touching their trunks, you can almost feel the pulse of life within them, a powerful reminder of the countless worshipers who have traveled through these ancient forests.

Dressing in Heian-era costume enhances the mystical atmosphere of this historic road, making it a truly unforgettable experience on your journey.

Let’s continue to Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine. From Kumano Kodo Daimonzaka, we’ll follow the beautiful moss-covered stone path, lined with towering cedars. This path includes 267 steps along a 600-meter stone stairway.

At the top of Daimonzaka, you’ll arrive at Mount Nachi. While you can also reach this point by bus or car, with a bus stop and parking area available, you’ll still need to climb an additional 200 stone steps to reach the Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine.

After climbing a total of 467 stone stairs you will finally arrive at the sacred sanctuary. The Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine sits at an elevation of about 500 meters. It can be a bit of an exhausting hike if you are not physically fit. Catch your breath and say a prayer.

The practice of entering inside is called Tainaikuguri in Japanese, which translates to “passing under the womb.” It is believed that if you write a wish on a homa stick—used for prayers that are later ritually burned—and then pass through the opening, your wish will be granted. This ritual offers an exciting and meaningful experience!

After receiving spiritual energy from the Tainaikuguri, head back to the front of the Hall of Worship and try your luck with a fortune slip. You’ll likely be impressed by the size of the fortune slip container—it’s one of the largest you’ll ever see! Grasp the container with both hands and shake it until a long fortune stick emerges from a hole at one end. Then, take the stick to the office to receive the fortune slip that matches the number on the stick.

I gave it a try and got Daikichi, which means "excellent luck." I hope that fortune comes true!

Nachi Falls, revered as an object of nature worship, is enshrined at Hirōjinja, a subsidiary shrine of Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine. Located about 1 km (roughly a 15-minute walk) from the main shrine, it’s a must-see destination.

A little way up the stone stairway, you’ll notice the red lettering of “Waterfall Place of Worship,” marking the closest point you can get to Nachi Falls. It’s a truly impressive sight! Standing in the mist of the falling water, I felt the sacred energy of this place. With about one ton of water cascading 133 meters every second, it’s not only Japan's most powerful waterfall but also the tallest.

Every year on July 9th and December 27th, a sacred ceremony called Otaki Shimenawa Harikae-shiki is performed. Shrine staff, dressed in white garments and wearing <@eboshii@> (a type of headgear worn by court nobles), carry a 26-meter-long, 4 kg Shimenawa to the top of the falls to replace the old one, all while being soaked by the cold water. The ceremony is truly awe-inspiring, and just thinking about it gives me goosebumps.

A journey of worship to Kumano Sanzan will leave you feeling humbled by the deep history and natural wonders of this sacred area. It’s a place where you may come to understand yourself and renew your spirit in this "land of revitalization" and "land of regeneration."

Visit Kumano Sanzan and experience the many soothing and transformative powers it has to offer.

(Written by: Advision)