In the heart of Iwate Prefecture lies Morioka, a city that has quietly cultivated a rich culinary heritage. The city is renowned for its delectable local cuisine, with a special spotlight on the "Morioka sandaimen" - the Three Great Noodles of Morioka.
These are not mere dishes, but culinary legacies: Morioka Reimen, Morioka Jajamen, and Wanko Soba. Each noodle variety, with its unique flavor profile and history, has been cherished by both locals and tourists for generations.
Here we unravel the tales and tastes of these three iconic noodles, and explore how they intertwine with the rich tapestry of Morioka's culture and natural splendor.
Morioka Reimen: A Product of Trial and Error
Teruhito Aoki, the visionary behind Morioka's renowned Shokudoen, introduced the specialty noodle dish, Morioka Reimen, to the city nearly six decades ago.
When he opened Shokudoen in 1954, Mr. Aoki was inspired to recreate the reimen noodle dish he had tasted during his younger days in Korea. The original Korean reimen boasted gray noodles made from buckwheat flour, prompting his initial attempt with buckwheat as well.
Yet, this version didn't resonate with the locals. In a pivot, he substituted buckwheat flour with potato starch, leading to the creation of a unique transparent noodle.
Mr. Aoki's dedication was unwavering, emphasizing the dish's three core elements: robust, firm noodles; a clear, sweet beef broth; and the zesty kick of kimchi on top.
Through perseverance and refinement, the ideal reimen dish emerged, steadily climbing the ladder of popularity. Its acclaim reached such heights that it was featured in newspapers, magazines, and on TV. In no time, Morioka Reimen became a sensation across Japan.
Recommended Morioka Reimen Shops
1. Shokudoen: Delicious Noodles from the Birthplace of Morioka Reimen
Shokudoen, the birthplace of Morioka Reimen, offers the dish on the menu under the name 'Pyongyang Reimen' (950 yen). It's an exquisite combination of plump, elastic noodles and rich broth made from beef, beef bone, and chicken bone.
The soup, in particular, is addictingly good, with a light, refreshing taste and unique, mellow sweetness. The standard way to eat this dish is to order it with kimchi and adjust its spiciness to your level.
The kimchi adds not only a nice, spicy kick, but a bit of acidity to accent the noodles. If you want to try reimen in Morioka, visit this place!
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Shokudoen食道園
- Address 1 Chome-8-2 Odori, Morioka, Iwate 020-0022
- Phone Number 019-651-4590
・Hours: 11:30 AM - 3 PM, 5 PM - 11 PM, Sundays and public holidays 11:30 AM - 3 PM, 4:30 PM - 9 PM.
・Closed: 1st and 3rd Tuesday of the month.
Seirokaku: Reimen from a Popular Yakiniku Shop Near Morioka Station
Seirokaku is an easily-accessible yakiniku restaurant located right in front of JR Morioka Station. Since its establishment in 1982, it has become famous amongst locals as a high-quality yakiniku restaurant. However, this shop doesn't only serve yakiniku. They also have a popular reimen dish (1,000 yen)!
These plump and delicious homemade noodles are hand-kneaded to adjust the distribution of ingredients according to the weather and season. The broth is also worth noting, made with slow-boiled domestic beef bone and shank. Available in seven levels of spiciness.
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Seirokaku盛楼閣
- Address 15-5 Moriokaekimaedori, Morioka, Iwate 020-0034
- Phone Number 019-654-8752
・Hours: 11 AM - Midnight
・Closed: Open daily.
Morioka Jajamen: A Unique Local Noodle Dish
Among the Three Great Noodles of Morioka, Morioka Jajamen stands out distinctly in its presentation, ingredients, and way of eating. Its roots trace back to the specialty shop, Pairon, where the founder introduced his rendition of Janjanmen, reminiscent of the flavors savored in former Manchuria over six decades ago.
Instead of traditional Chinese noodles, this dish features warm, flat udon noodles adorned with toppings like chopped cucumber, green onions, and a distinctive red meat miso. This meat miso is the heart of Morioka Jajamen. The preparation involves stir-frying the noodles with an array of over 10 ingredients, including ground meat, sesame seeds, and shiitake mushrooms. This mix is then allowed to rest, enhancing its depth of flavor and aroma. To cater to individual tastes, eateries offer chili oil, vinegar, and garlic on the side, allowing diners to adjust the dish's spiciness.
A unique aspect of enjoying Morioka Jajamen is the post-meal ritual. After savoring a portion of the noodles, diners can ask for some noodle-boiling water. By adding a whisked egg, salt, and pepper, they can craft 'chitantan', a distinctive egg drop soup, further showcasing the allure of Morioka Jajamen.
Recommended Morioka Jajamen Shops
1. Pairon: The Crowd-Pulling Birthplace of Morioka Jajamen
Pairon is the restaurant where Morioka Jajamen, with its chewy flat noodles and unique meat miso, was born.
The flavor of their Jajamen (starting at 510 yen) is determined by a combination of rich meat miso and 15 kinds of ingredients. You may also want to spice it up with chili oil, vinegar, garlic, and ginger. Don't hold back on seasonings. Eat like the locals, and enjoy this soul food of Morioka!
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Pairon Honten白龍本店
- Address 5-15 Uchimaru, Morioka, Iwate 020-0023
- Phone Number 019-624-2247
・Hours: 9 AM - 8:45 PM, Sundays 11:30 AM - 4:00 PM
2. Morioka Jajamen: Sesame-Meat Miso Morioka Jajamen
Morioka Jajamen, founded in 1989, is a specialty shop featuring its namesake noodle, Morioka Jajamen. Their Morioka Jajamen (starting at 400 yen) is a dish of thick, flat noodles entwined with their choice miso, made with a generous serving of sesame.
It is available in four sizes: small, medium, large, and special. Chopped green onions and cucumbers accent the taste and texture, making even the large and special dishes easy to eat. Don't forget to end your meal with fluffy, beaten eggs to make chintantan!
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Morioka Jajamen盛岡じゃじゃめん
- Address 4-20 Shinmeicho, Morioka, Iwate 020-0884
- Phone Number 019-623-9173
・Hours: 11:30 AM - 4 PM.
・Closed: Wednesdays / Sundays.
Wanko Soba: A Noodle Dish Born From The Spirit of Hospitality
There are various theories about the origin of wanko soba. One states that over 400 years ago, the lord of the Nanbu clan, Nanbu Toshinao, stopped by Hanamaki on his way to Edo (Tokyo). There he was served soba in a small lacquer bowl, which he immediately fell in love with.
Once his love for the dish became known, its popularity spread to the general public. Also, as Iwate Prefecture has long practiced the custom of 'soba furumai', there was no resistance to enjoying soba in this 'style of hospitality.
Also, when there were many customers, it made sense to serve everyone little by little. Perhaps this is what eventually shaped the wanko soba tradition into what it is today.
The waiter stands by the customer's side as they eat, chanting the customary words of encouragement, "Hai, jan jan!" as they slip in another serving of soba into the bowl. This series of actions continues until the customer closes the lid of their bowl.
If you're up for a challenge, see how many bowls you can eat and how many different condiments you can try!
Recommended Wanko Soba Shops
1. Azumaya Honten: Eat 100 or More Cups for a Special Certificate!
Azumaya Honten is a famous soba restaurant founded in 1907, popular not only for Wanko soba but for handmade soba and rice bowls. Wanko soba starts at 3,150 yen. Enjoy bowl after bowl as the waiter cheers "Hai, jan jan" and "Hai, don don."
You can spice up each one with a variety of different ingredients, such as tuna sashimi, grated nameko mushrooms, and soboro (ground chicken). If you eat 100 cups or more, you'll even receive a special certificate - a popular attraction with tourists. 15 cups of Wanko soba is the approximate equivalent of one cup of normal soba. The average amount an adult male can eat is 70 to 80 cups.
*For vegan, halal, and vegetarian options, please contact the shop at least three days in advance (expect delays during busy seasons).
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東家 本店Azumaya Honten
- Address 1 Chome-8-3 Nakanohashidori, Morioka, Iwate 020-0871
- Phone Number 0120-733-130
・Hours: 11 AM - 3 PM, 5 PM - 7 PM.
・Closed: Open daily.
2. Chokurian: A Fun Way to Enjoy Delicious Wanko Soba
Chokurian, a long-established shop founded in 1884, is said to be the first restaurant in Morioka to offer Wanko soba. This reputable shop, beloved by the locals, offers soba noodles made with local Iwate buckwheat flour.
The wanko soba dish (starting at 3,355 yen) comes with nine types of condiments, including sujiko (trout roe), sea bream sashimi, and pickled vegetables so that you can try a different flavor with every bowl.
Enjoy your meal as you adjust your pace to the waiter's chants. Chokurian uses the old-fashioned cup-counting method of placing match sticks on the table. The trick to eating your fill is not to drink too much of the broth.
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Chokurian直利庵
- Address 1 Chome-12-13 Nakanohashidori, Morioka, Iwate 020-0871
- Phone Number 019-624-0441
・Hours: 11 AM - 8 PM.
・Closed: Wednesdays (following day if national holiday).
Information in this article was confirmed with Iwate Prefecture Nama-Men Cooperative
Text by Shoe Press Co., Ltd.
*This article was originally published in February 2022 and shop times confirmed in July 2024. Please see the official websites for the latest information.
Translated by: Krys Suzuki
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*Prices and options mentioned are subject to change.
*Unless stated otherwise, all prices include tax.
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