This trip starts from Matsumoto and offers a perfect blend of Japanese history and natural beauty. From Matsumoto Castle and the Edo-era charm of Nakasendo post towns like Narai-juku, Tsumago-juku, and Magome-juku, to scenic spots like Nezame-no-toko and the ruins of Naegi Castle, this Nagano and Gifu itinerary has it all.

You’ll also relax at Gero Onsen, stroll through the old townscape of Hida Takayama, and admire the stunning Northern Alps at Kamikochi. This is a luxurious route that combines culture and nature.

These must-visit spots are scattered across a wide area, making public transportation inefficient for covering the itinerary. Renting a car gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace, ensuring you can comfortably visit even the most remote locations on this unforgettable journey.

This itinerary starts in Matsumoto.

Begin Day 1 with a visit to Matsumoto Castle, a national treasure and one of the few original castles of Japan. Its striking black walls and historical atmosphere transport you to the samurai era, making it a must-see for history fans. Next, explore three of the post towns on the Nakasendo (often called the “Samurai Road” in English)—Narai-juku, Tsumago-juku, and Magome-juku—where Edo-period streetscapes of stone paving and wooden houses offer a glimpse into the lives of past travelers.

Along the way, stop at Nezame-no-Toko, known for its dramatic rock formations and crystal-clear streams, which is also a great spot for taking photos. Crossing into Gifu Prefecture, visit the mountain-top ruins of Naegi Castle, where the historical atmosphere meets breathtaking views of the Kiso River. End the day with a stay at Gero Onsen, a renowned hot spring destination, for a relaxing soak and a chance to experience Japan's unique hot spring culture.

On Day 2, head to Hida Takayama to stroll through its charming old town, featuring traditional crafts and local delicacies. Conclude your trip at Kamikochi, a stunning mountain retreat with spectacular views of the Northern Alps, perfect for hiking and sightseeing in the clear air.

Rental cars are available around Matsumoto Station, the second largest city in Nagano Prefecture, for convenience. Be sure to book in advance to ensure a smooth start to your journey.

Note: Since Day 1 covers a lot of ground, it’s best to leave Matsumoto as early as possible. If the itinerary feels too packed, consider skipping some stops. In this case, I recommend prioritizing Matsumoto Castle, Tsumago-juku, and the Naegi Castle Ruins as must-see destinations, while exploring the other spots at your own pace based on your schedule.

The first destination is Matsumoto Castle, near the starting point in Matsumoto City. Matsumoto Castle is famous for being Japan's oldest original 5-tiered, 6-story castle tower. Consistently ranked among the top Japanese castles along with Himeji Castle, Matsumoto Castle is designated a national treasure and is distinguished by its striking black walls, earning it the nickname “Crow Castle”.

This castle was built at the end of the Sengoku period (around 1593-94) and served as the political center of the Matsumoto Domain during the Edo period (1603-1868). It escaped the castle abolition order in the Meiji period (1868-1912) thanks to the dedicated efforts of local residents who worked to preserve it.

Highlights include the castle tower and Tsukimi-yagura (Moon Viewing Tower), as well as the impressive stone walls and surrounding moat. Visitors can tour the interior of the castle tower, which features exhibits of historical weapons and offers spectacular views from the top floor. Be mindful, however, as the tower’s steep stairs require careful navigation.

In spring, you can enjoy the beautiful scenery of cherry blossoms and the castle, and in summer, the area is filled with lush greenery. The autumn leaves and winter snowscapes are also fantastic, making it a fantastic site to visit year-round.

After enjoying Matsumoto Castle, our journey continues with our first visit to a post town along Nakasendo. These towns share a rich history, having thrived as key transportation hubs during the Edo period, and their traditional streetscapes remain well-preserved today. Post towns served as places where travelers (including feudal lords and their followers) could find lodgings; hence many end with the suffix -juku (宿, meaning “inn”).

Tourist attractions in Narai-juku include rows of quaint traditional wooden buildings that are still home to merchants, residences, and ryokan inns, as well as the Kamitonya Historical Museum. Another standout place is the Narai-juku Kiso Bridge, so be sure to check it out.

You can also experience the culture of Kiso lacquerware and traditional crafts, so I recommend stopping by a lacquerware shop or similar establishment during your visit.

Next, we stop at Nezame-no-Toko, a breathtaking gorge that has been cherished as a landmark since ancient times. Its spectacular scenery features striking granite formations beside the emerald-green Kiso River. This location is also tied to Urashima Taro, a 1300-year-old Japanese folktale.

The natural beauty, shaped over centuries by the river carving through the rocks, is truly wonderful. It’s fascinating to imagine Edo-period travelers along the Nakasendo admiring the very same scenery we see today.

Nezame-no-Toko offers stunning views, with the dramatic contrast of towering rocks and the clear emerald river, breathtaking vistas from higher ground, and the nearby Urashimado. The scenery changes beautifully with the seasons, from vibrant spring greenery and the cool river in summer to vivid autumn leaves and serene snowy landscapes in winter.

Nearby, there is a restaurant called Nezame-tei, where you can park, enjoy a meal, and take in the incredible views from the terrace. If time allows, take the walkway down to the river from Nezame-tei and see the rocks up close. Just be cautious: the rocks can be tricky to walk on and especially slippery in snowy winter conditions.

Next, we make our way to Tsumago-juku, the second post town of the day. This post town was the first on the Nakasendo to be designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. Located in a mountain valley, it boasts a serene atmosphere surrounded by lush greenery and an attractive townscape that retains its Edo-period appearance.

Tsumago-juku was established in the early Edo period (early 1600s) and developed as a key transportation and commercial hub. However, it experienced a period of decline during the Meiji era (late 1800s) due to modernization. Thanks to a dedicated preservation movement, the town was carefully restored to its current appearance, allowing visitors to experience its historic charm today.

Tourist attractions include the well-preserved historic buildings of the post town, the museum, the waki-honjin (backup lodgings for high-ranking officials when the honjin was full), and the remains of honjin (principal inn that served high-ranking government officials and feudal lords). The Honjin at Tsumago-juku was restored in 1995, guided by historical drawings, while the Waki-honjin, built in 1877, is a lavish structure made from beautiful cypress wood. The hiking trails along the Nakasendo are also a favorite among visitors. Tsumago-juku's townscape harmonizes beautifully with the surrounding natural scenery, with picture-perfect views year-round.

Next, we cross into Gifu Prefecture and visit Magome-juku, the 43rd post town on Nakasendo. Unlike the previous towns, Magome-juku is known for its steep, stone-paved slopes, giving it a unique charm. Situated on high ground in the mountains, it offers excellent views, allowing visitors to take in the distant peaks and scenery.

This post town has a strong literary element, as it is home to the birthplace and memorial museum of Japanese poet and novelist Shimazaki Toson. Highlights include the stone-paved roads, Toson Memorial Museum, observation spots, and old-style shops.

The hiking trail from Magome-juku, the 43rd post town on the Nakasendo, to Tsumago-juku, the 42nd, is approximately 9 km in length and would take about three hours to walk. This route has gained popularity in recent years, with foreign visitors now often seen walking along the Nakasendo. If you plan to hike, it’s recommended to walk from Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku to take advantage of the descending elevation.

After enjoying the post towns along the Nakasendo, we next head to the ruins of Naegi Castle, a mountain castle located in Nakatsugawa City, Gifu Prefecture. This site is a favorite among fans of Japanese mountain castles, known for its unique stone wall structure built with oddly shaped rocks. It is also referred to as the "floating rock castle in the sky."

The castle was built around 1526 during the Sengoku period and was demolished around 1600. At the ruins, you can still see the stone walls and building remnants from that era. Highlights include the distinctive stone walls and the spectacular view from the observation deck. From the mountain’s summit, the deck offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Kiso River and Mt. Ena.

You can enjoy the scenery of each season, such as cherry blossoms in spring, green leaves in summer, autumn leaves in autumn, and stone walls that stand out against the snow in winter. When I visited, the autumn colors painted the trees around the grounds, making for an impressive scene.

I recommend staying in Gero Onsen in Gifu Prefecture, one of Japan’s three most famous hot springs, alongside Arima Onsen in Hyogo Prefecture and Kusatsu Onsen in Gunma Prefecture. It is known for its silky-smooth waters that feel wonderful on the skin. The hot spring town is dotted with foot baths and drinking fountains, making it perfect for a leisurely stroll while enjoying its chill atmosphere. It is also roughly halfway between the Naegi Castle Ruins and Takayama, tomorrow’s destination.

Gero Onsen is a historic hot spring town, first mentioned in records from the Heian period and a favorite retreat during the Edo period. Even today, it’s one of Japan’s most popular and beloved hot spring destinations.

Take a relaxing soak in its famous waters and let both your mind and body unwind in this peaceful haven.

Gero Onsen Yamagataya is a historic inn that has been welcoming guests since the Edo period. Known for its excellent service and high-quality facilities, it’s a great choice even for first-time solo travelers. The staff’s attentive and courteous service has earned it a well-deserved reputation for hospitality.

They offer plans for solo travelers and single rooms, so you can stay comfortably even if you're alone. They also meet a wide range of needs, such as plans with dinner included and luxurious Japanese-style rooms.

With a large public bath and an open-air bath surrounded by nature, it is the perfect environment for quietly enjoying the hot springs. In addition, it is located in Gero Onsen town, so it is convenient for sightseeing and walking, and you can easily enjoy the local charm even by yourself.

MIYAKO is an excellent choice for couples seeking a peaceful getaway. Perched on a hilltop, the inn offers a serene and private atmosphere, creating the perfect setting for couples to relax and unwind together.

The design and interior of the building are in the Taisho Romantic style, and you can enjoy a special atmosphere.

MIYAKO offers special plans tailored for couples, featuring thoughtfully designed room settings and exquisite dinners to make your time together truly memorable. The kaiseki cuisine highlights local ingredients, with several options centered around Hida beef, providing a unique and indulgent dining experience. These elements come together to create a romantic and unforgettable stay.

Mahoroba Garden Corridor, which opened in September 2024, offers a premium garden experience designed for visitors to enjoy exceptional quality time. It’s the perfect place to create cherished moments with your loved ones.opened this year in September 2024. It is a premium garden created to allow guests to enjoy a higher level of quality time. It is the perfect place to enjoy the best time with your loved ones.

Hotel KUSAKABE AlmeriA offers a variety of rooms, including Japanese-style rooms, Western-style rooms, Asian resort-style rooms, and suite rooms with open-air baths, so you can relax with your family. The family-friendly rate plans are also attractive.

The open-air observation bath offers a panoramic view of Gero Onsen town, allowing families to enjoy a special time together.

The hotel has an outdoor pool (seasonal), spa facilities, karaoke rooms (paid), and more, providing an environment where parents and children can relax. In addition, entertainment shows are held irregularly, so the whole family can enjoy themselves.

The first stop on Day 2 is Hida Takayama, a charming castle town in Gifu Prefecture, often referred to as "Little Kyoto." Known for its well-preserved Edo-period streetscape and traditional festivals, the town also attracts visitors with its renowned Hida beef, local crafts, sake breweries, and bustling morning market. It is a tourist destination where the nature and culture of the Hida region come together in harmony.

Hida Takayama was established as a castle town around 1588 during the Sengoku period and later flourished as a tenryo—a territory directly governed by the Edo Shogunate—during the Edo period. The skilled woodworking techniques of Hida craftsmen earned widespread acclaim, and the region’s traditional culture has been passed down to the present day, with the Takayama Festival standing as a proud symbol of this heritage.

The old townscape from the Edo period, the ornate floats of the Takayama Festival, and the Miyagawa Morning Market are among Hida Takayama’s top attractions, and you can also enjoy strolling around the town and sampling various foods that capture the essence of Edo-era Japan. Seasonal highlights include cherry blossoms and the Takayama Festival (Sanno Festival) in spring, lush greenery in summer, colorful autumn leaves and the Takayama Festival (Hachiman Festival) in fall, and snowy landscapes with magical winter lighting at night. Each season has its own unique charm.

For lunch in Takayama, take a little time to indulge in the region’s specialties. While Hida beef is a must-try, Hida country cuisine and Hida soba are also excellent choices.

After exploring the charming streets of Takayama, head to one of Japan's most renowned limestone caves, situated at an altitude of 900 meters—the highest in the country—within Takayama City, Gifu Prefecture. Inside, you’ll find beautiful limestone formations. With a consistent temperature of about 12°C throughout the year, the cave is especially popular as a refreshing retreat during the summer months.

Discovered in 1965, the interior has been developed for tourism. Hida, one of Japan's leading mountainous regions, was at the bottom of the sea 250 million years ago. Subsequent crustal movements created the Japanese Alps, and the rocks were eroded by rain, forming the limestone caves. This is a place where you can experience the magnificent mysteries of nature.

There are many things to see inside the cave, such as the "Dragon Palace Night View," where the high ceiling and pure white stalactites look fantastic; the "Ice Valley," an artificially created valley that is lit up only in winter; and the "Happiness Waterfall," where many people pray for happiness.

Our final stop on this trip, and undoubtedly a highlight, is Kamikochi. As private vehicles are not permitted in Kamikochi, we park at Akandana Parking Lot and take a shuttle to reach this stunning destination. Kamikochi is a beloved mountain resort in Nagano Prefecture, and many tourists visit every year to enjoy the beautiful scenery created by the Hotaka mountain range and the crystal-clear Azusa River. It is also used as a base for hiking and mountain climbing.

British missionary and mountaineer Walter Weston introduced Kamikochi in a book published in 1896. His writings helped popularize leisure mountain climbing in Japan, bringing Kamikochi into the spotlight and making it widely known.

Kamikochi offers many scenic spots, but the walking course around Kappa Bridge, Taisho Pond, Myojin Pond, and the Azusa River is particularly recommended. Each season showcases its unique beauty, from fresh greenery in spring and vibrant alpine plants in summer, to stunning autumn leaves in the fall. I visited just after it opened in the spring, and I instantly became a fan of Kamikochi after seeing the snow-capped mountains of Okuhotakadake and Myojindake, the clear waters of the Azusa River, and the fresh air—it was an unforgettable experience.

Do keep in mind that Kamikochi is closed during the winter months (mid-November to mid-April).

Before your rental car trip in Japan, it's important to be familiar with the following basics.

If it's your first time renting a car in Japan, make sure you familiarize yourself with the process. You can find more details in the article below.

Mapcode assigns a numerical value to locations in Japan, allowing easy identification through car navigation systems. Many modern satnavs support Mapcode input, making it simpler than entering a name, address, or phone number. However, inputting the wrong number can send you to the wrong location, so always double-check your destination. Recently, I always use Mapcode when traveling to new places.

If you're planning to drive in Japan, it's important to learn the basic traffic rules for safety. I recommend the following article, which provides a clear explanation of the rules for foreigners.

What should you do if you need to use the toilet while driving? This can be especially challenging when traveling with children, as they may suddenly declare, "I need to go!"

In Japan, the common options are roadside stations and convenience stores.

Roadside stations are fewer in number but offer not only restrooms but also facilities such as snack shops, souvenir stands, and vending machines, making them a convenient stop.

On the other hand, while convenience stores may not be as fully equipped, they are far more common and can be very handy. However, when using the restroom at a convenience store, it is considered polite to make a small purchase.

The courses introduced here include many spots with poor footing, such as Nezame-no-Toko, Naegi Castle Ruins, the Great Hida Cave, and Kamikochi, so it's a good idea to have trekking shoes. If you don't have any, you'll need sturdy, non-slip sneakers. Avoid sandals and high heels.

If you're traveling in winter, snow tires and chains are essential, as well as plenty of warm clothing.

This two-day driving trip, starting in Matsumoto, Nagano Prefecture, offers the perfect opportunity to enjoy Japanese history and nature. Step back in time as you explore Matsumoto Castle, the Edo-era charm of Nakasendo post towns like Narai-juku, Tsumago-juku, and Magome-juku, and the traditional streets of Hida Takayama.

The route also takes you to scenic gems such as Nezame-no-Toko and the ruins of Naegi Castle, allows for relaxation at the renowned Gero Onsen, and ends with the breathtaking views of Kamikochi. Since the destinations are spread out, a rental car is highly recommended to travel freely and make the most of your journey.

I hope this special two-day trip, where history and nature come together seamlessly, will leave you with unforgettable memories.