The easiest way to get to Kinugawa Onsen is by train via Tobu Railway. From there, simply take the shuttle bus that stops at each ryokan and get off at Asaya Hotel after about eight minutes (190 yen for adults, 100 yen for children).

Kinugawa’s hot spring was discovered in 1691 and named “Taki Onsen” back then. However, only a select few people got to enjoy it, such as the feudal lord of Nikko and priests.

When the hot spring was opened to the general public, a man named Zenpachi Yagisawa, who also ran a charcoal and hemp shop, acquired the source's rights and opened an inn for travelers called Asaya Ryokan - the origin of today’s Asaya.

Asaya Hotel was founded in 1888. The following 130 years have evolved Asaya into a spectacular, breathtaking hotel featuring the Shuhoukan annex and its luxurious atmosphere. In contrast, the Hachibankan annex reproduces the laid-back atmosphere of an authentic hot spring inn. Nowadays, it offers 192 rooms in total.

Welcomed warmly by the female hotel staff called nakai, let’s take a look at what awaits inside.

As you step through the entrance on the 6th floor of the Shuhoukan annex, a breathtaking view suddenly sprawls right in front of you.

The lobby is simply gorgeous. The third to the twelfth floor is all part of the colonnade, and three glass elevators smoothly move up and down in one corner.

The atmosphere feels just like the otherworldly bathhouse of Studio Ghibli’s Spirited Away and immediately puts you in a holiday mood.

The entire lobby is engulfed in elegant sounds created by the pipe organ on the third floor. Its music echoes gently throughout the spacious colonnade.

After admiring the lobby, proceed to the check-in, and you’ll be guided to your room immediately. We stayed at the Shuhoukan. It is mainly made up of Japanese-style rooms, but some of the 158 rooms are Western-style as well.

In addition, there are also VIP rooms and several other accommodations. The hot spring water is pumped to every single room directly, allowing you to soak your body around the clock and whenever you feel like it.

The Kinugawa River flows right below your balcony! The calmness and fresh air cools you down even on hot summer days.

If you want to make your stay one level more luxurious, we highly recommend the “Miyabi” room, a beautiful blend of Western and Japanese aesthetics.

This room style was entirely renewed in July 2017. The checkered tatami flooring combines modern design with tradition, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere.

The main feature of this luxurious room is the gorgeous hot spring bath that faces the Kinugawa Valley!

From a massage chair to L’Occitane amenities, a steamer, and a hair iron, the “Miyabi” room offers plenty of ways to pamper yourself.

The Shuhoukan annex features 13 different room types in total, offering a rather diverse choice according to personal preference, budget, and so on. Check the official website for further details!

After stretching your legs in your room, savor the exquisite dinner! Depending on your preference, you can book a kaiseki cuisine course in a Japanese-style dining setting or a private room. Still, we decided to try the dinner buffet, which offers 100 different delicacies from Japanese and Western cuisine.

The menu is made with fresh, seasonal ingredients, and choosing what to try first is not an easy task.

The dishes are arranged in little boats for an authentic hot spring feeling.

Even snow crab is part of the all-you-can-eat buffet!

Ayu (sweetfish) is freshly grilled over a charcoal fire.

The chefs are hard at work in the open kitchen, creating masterful dishes with their honed skills. Everything is fresh, allowing you to enjoy tempura, steak, pasta, stone-oven pizza, and more piping hot!

Asaya Hotel is also committed to “beauty and health.” The vegetable zone boasts 24 different oils and dressings!

Of course, Nikko’s local specialty is part of the buffet: try yuba (tofu skin) as crispy tempura, as pasta with yuba, as a flavorful roll, and more!

On top of that, the buffet is also enriched with local and rare dishes and ingredients, such as the luxurious Yashiomasu trout. So challenge your inner gourmet and try your way through all these delicacies!

After savoring the many delectable dishes at the buffet, let’s head to the 13th floor of Shuhoukan and the hotel’s pride: the Sky Garden Open-air Hot Spring.

The eyecatcher of the rooftop garden is the boat bath, shown in the picture above. It’s a real one that was once used as a Kinugawa River Boat, now turned into an atmospheric bath.

Especially at night, soaking your body in the hot water is an exquisite experience. Enhanced by indirect lighting, the atmosphere becomes almost dreamlike. The water is not too hot at 40 to 42 degrees Celsius and welcomes even hot spring beginners with a warm, gentle embrace.

The Japanese name for the bath is “Tateyu,” meaning “standing water.” That is because it overlooks the entire area and its tall mountains.

The first floor of Shuhoukan is also home to a large public bath, while four types of private baths on the third floor can be reserved. Fifty minutes of private bathing luxury cost 4,000 yen per bath (including rental towels).

For female guests, we especially recommend the large public bath “Taki no Yu” on the first basement floor of the Hachibankan annex.

Kinugawa Onsen’s water is a simple colorless and odorless alkaline hot spring said to have a positive effect on neuralgia, joint pain, chronic digestive diseases, and so on. Both public open-air and indoor baths are available, so don’t hesitate to take your time trying all of them.

The next day, you’ll wake up to Asaya’s amazing breakfast buffet. That too features a rich selection of 60 dishes from both the West and Japan. Just like during dinner, the chefs prepare everything fresh in the open kitchen.

First of all, we ordered the famous “special French Toast” of Asaya Hotel. The bread is coated thoroughly in the dough, then grilled, and then baked once more in the oven.

The dough is made from fresh eggs and milk of local Tochigi production, making for a gentle sweetness that tastes a bit like egg custard pudding. It’s not something that can be described easily, and it’s best to try this heavenly breakfast delight for yourself.

Another highlight of the breakfast buffet is the many toppings specifically for the freshly made omelets, also prepared with Tochigi eggs.

After kickstarting your morning with an amazing breakfast, why not find a nice souvenir for friends and family at home? A souvenir shop called Asaya can be found on the sixth floor of the Shuhoukan, selling original gifts and various famous local specialties of Tochigi Prefecture.

We especially recommend the “Asaya Special Hot Spring Manju” (steamed buns, box of 8 for 780 yen, box of 12 for 1,080 yen), as well as the “Asaya Special Wagyu Beef Curry” (single serving for 680 yen, set of 4 servings for 2,580 yen), freshly made at the hotel’s own factory every morning.

The Hachibankan annex was renewed in July 2018, and, of course, we wanted to take a look inside. The interior of both the VIP rooms and the restaurant’s private rooms has changed significantly.

The spacious VIP room boasts an astounding 104 square meters and will make you feel right at home (from 61,560 yen per person for a group of four adults, features two meals). The lush green just outside the window looks like a painting.

The restaurant Nikko lets you enjoy a special kaiseki cuisine experience in a private room, making excellent use of the flavor of locally produced ingredients.

The Asaya Hotel doesn’t only pamper you with a breathtaking Japanese bathing experience, it also raises the standards of hospitability to a whole new level. A single night at this fascinating place will surely become one of your favorite memories of your trip to Japan.

After our stay, let’s explore the Kinugawa Onsen area!

First, see the Kinu-Tateiwa-Otsuribashi Suspension Bridge, about a 15-minute walk away from Kinugawa Onsen Station (and about 5 minutes away from Asaya).

It’s said to be a bridge of bonds and marriage because it connects the Kinugawa River, seen as female, and the steep rocks at the end of the bridge, seen as male.

The bridge shakes more than it may seem, something only felt when you’re already on it. Even people who don’t have a fear of heights might feel a little queasy.

Head up the stairs and if you turn to the right, you’ll get to Tateiwa Observation Deck. Continuing to the left will take you to Furukama Falls. Let’s go to the right first.

Opposite the observatory is Furukama Falls, a 15-minute walk away. It’s not one of the popular, roaring waterfalls Nikko is known for but rather a natural secret tip, lush, calm, and green.

Trout and other fish swim in the clear water, and it’s a perfect spot just to stretch your legs and take in the peacefulness for a while.

Kinugawa Onsen is one of Japan’s most famous hot spring towns, nestled deep into the lush nature of the Nikko area. Next to getting an authentic taste of Japan’s bathing traditions, don’t forget to explore other sightseeing spots in the direct area, such as Tobu World Square and Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura!

*All prices listed in this article are including tax.

Pictures: Eri Kawamura