“Close to Tokyo Station and like a forest of office buildings, Marunouchi often acts as a point of transfer for international tourists. That is a shame, however, as the area has many beautiful spots to offer where you get to dip your toes into the history of Japan.”

“By the way, while you might know me in my usual butler’s attire, I’ve exchanged my uniform for something a little different. The reason for my decision will be revealed in due time. In Marunouchi, there tend to be quite a lot of people with free time on their hands. And this young woman over there seems to be one of them.”

Female tourist: (Mmh, three more hours. What should I do... there doesn’t seem to be much around here.)

Female tourist: (..........)

Female tourist: “Whoa!! Who... what is going on with you?!”

Butler: “I am a humble butler helping those in need.”
Female tourist: “...a butler?”
Butler: “Indeed. Is there something that troubles you? Maybe you are not quite sure how to spend your free time?”

Female tourist: “...well, actually, I am going to Kansai today, but I checked out of my hotel with plenty of time left. So I went to Tokyo Station earlier than expected. I have about three hours before my bullet train leaves. I stored my luggage in a coin locker and wanted to do some sightseeing around here, but there seems to be nothing but big buildings.”

Butler: “I see. If that is how it is, then please, leave this issue to me. I would be pleased to let you experience Japan’s Taisho Romance in just three hours.”

Female tourist: “Taisho Romance...?”
Butler: “Taisho refers to a period in between the Meiji and the Showa periods. It was a time of great changes, marked by rapid urbanization, new technologies such as the telephone and recording, and the spreading of newspapers and magazines. The atmosphere was filled with the excitement of a new era unfolding. The term Taisho Romance describes the style and culture of the time, from fashion to architecture, and is abbreviated to ‘Taisho Roman’ in Japanese. Today, I’d like to let you feel the wonderful atmosphere of Taisho Romance.”

Female tourist: “Oh wow, that sounds great! Thank you so much! By the way, I am Pink from Thailand.”

Butler: “My pleasure, Lady Pink. Shall we, then?”

Japanese guy from behind: “Aaaaah!”

Japanese guy: “Hey, wait up! Well well, if it isn’t Mr. Butler.”
Butler: “Oh. You again."

Pink: “Erm... do you guys know each other?”

Butler: “Lady Pink, I apologize for this rude interruption. This is Mr. Igarashi, a... man of leisure, so to say.”
Igarashi: “What? I am not! Anyways, what are you up to?”
Butler: “I was just about to show Lady Pink around Marunouchi and introduce her to the charms of the Taisho period.”
Igarashi: “I knew it! And ‘Lady Pink’ just happens to be really pretty, right? You seem even shadier than usual today, Mr. Butler. Why exactly are you wearing a school uniform...?”
Pink: “So that is a Japanese school uniform, right? I did find that a bit weird, to be honest...”

Butler: “Ahem. This is not a school uniform, this is a bankara. A style popular among students in the Meiji and Taisho era. How could I wear anything else while being in Marunouchi, a town so representative of Taisho Romance?”

Igarashi: “Oh, okay. I don’t really know what you’re talking about, but if you’re planning on showing Pink around, I will join. If that is okay for you.”
Pink: “Yes, sure! Let’s go together!”

Butler: “...sigh. Well, it can’t be helped. Lady Pink, Mr. Igarashi, shall we?”

Butler: “Our first stop is JNTO TIC.”
Igarashi: “Eh? What kind of shop is that?”
Butler: “This is an information center for international tourists visiting Japan, operated by the Japan National Tourism Organization.”
Pink: “Huh, I wouldn’t have expected a tourist information in a place like this.”
Butler: “It offers both maps and all sorts of travel guides in various languages and for all of Japan.”

Butler: “The staff working here is multilingual as well, so this is a reliable place to go even in case of an emergency.”
Pink: “Oh that is great for everyone who can’t speak Japanese.”

Butler: “Besides, there is a ‘Japanese Culture Experience’ inside TIC, allowing you to dress up in kimono, yukata, or hakama entirely for free. Both men and women, by the way. Even Japanese people can make use of this service if they are in the company of a tourist.”
Pink: “Oooh, dress-up?”
Butler: “Lady Pink, why don’t you slip into the clothes of a female student of the Taisho era?”
Pink: “Yes, please!”

Igarashi: “Oh, nice. The staff properly dresses you up, eh.”
Butler: “Oh, yes. These clothes can be worn over your regular outfit, so there is no need to be shy and hold back.”
Igarashi: “There she is!”

Igarashi: “Pink, you look amazing!”
Butler: “They may be traditional Japanese clothes, but they’ll look great on anyone, no matter where they’re from. Shall we take a commemorative photo of you in front of the shop, Lady Pink?”
Pink: “We’re wearing matching outfits, so I want you to be on the picture!”
Butler: “Oh no, I cannot possibly. I am just butler, after all...”
Igarashi: “Be quiet and stand next to her, will you?”

Igarashi: “Say cheese!”

Igarashi: “For someone not wanting to be on a photo, you sure have a smug expression, Mr. Butler... but Pink really looks stunning!”

Pink: “Haha, thank you! Wow, such an amazing photo! I would never have imagined taking home a memento like that!”
Butler: “I am glad that you like it, Lady Pink. Shall we get you back into your regular outfit and continue on to the next spot?”

Butler: “Behold, today’s main sight!”
Pink: “A museum?”
Igarashi: “Wait, how is a museum connected to Taisho Roman...?”

Butler: “This is the Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum. The building, simply called Mitsubishi Ichigokan, was built in 1894, has been faithfully restored and now serves as a museum, as you might have guessed from the name. The beautiful architecture of this structure is a prime example of the Taisho Romance style, making you feel like you have slipped back in time.”

Pink: "No kidding! The red bricks really seem to take me back a hundred years or so."
Butler: "In the Archive Room, you can get an authentic glimpse of Marunouchi's past as well."
Igarashi: "Huh. Exploring history both from outside and inside."
Butler: "Come, let us continue."

Pink: “The staff at the counter is also really kind, buying a ticket was easy! It seems to depend on the exhibition, but I got in for 1,700 yen.”
Butler: “Japan welcomes more and more visitors from abroad, so we’re slowly getting used to it.”

Butler: “Lady Pink, Mr. Igarashi, please follow me and come see the interior of the museum. It is quite marvelous.”
Igarashi: “Kind of a solemn atmosphere, isn’t it?”
Pink: “It’s great that this museum is not just about the exhibits but also about the building and the architecture itself. Roaming around the hall is fun!”

Butler: “Look at this stairway. Do you know why some parts have a slightly different color?”
Pink: “Huh, true. That bit is a bit faded.”
Igarashi: “They also feel slightly different, don’t they?”

Butler: “The truth is that those are remnants of the original building, while others had to be replaced during the restoration.”
Pink: “It feels like I am touching history...”

Butler: “The exhibits are a sight to behold as well. Three exhibitions centered on contemporary art are held per year, and you will always get to admire the collection of art from the end of the 19th century, created around the same time as this museum was built.”

Pink: “I had no idea. This is not just a great place for killing time, I’d actually have come here on purpose, had I known about it!”

Butler: “Here is one of the little secret places of the museum. The corridor’s walls are made out of glass, offering a beautiful view over Mitsubishi Ichigokan’s plaza.”

Pink: “Wow, what a great view!”
Igarashi: “Beautiful.”

Butler: “Feel free to take a break on one of the benches installed here to take in the view for a while.”

Igarashi: “That reminds me... I actually came here to take a break!”
Butler: “Shall we visit the museum café, then?”

Butler: “We need to leave the building for a moment to get to the café.”
Pink: “Those beautiful red bricks! I wouldn’t have believed that this treasure was in the middle of such an office area!”

Butler: “This is Café 1894, both a café and a bar.”
Pink: “The entrance alone looks stunning.”
Butler: “Prepare to be even more surprised once you’ve stepped inside.”

Pink: “Whoa, amazing! It looks and feels so antique!”
Igarashi: “The ceiling is so high! I wouldn’t have expected that, judging by the exterior.”

Butler: “When the building was constructed, this place was a bank. Now, it has been turned into a bar and café, but you can find traces of the past wherever you look.”

Butler: “Shall we order? I highly recommend the cappuccino.”
Pink: “That’s what I want, then!”
Igarashi: “I’ll have that as well.”

Pink: “Nice latte art!”
Igarashi: “Oh, the café’s logo!”

Pink: “It almost looks too pretty to drink. Mmm, but it really tastes amazing. Wow, I am glad I happened to come three hours too early to Tokyo Station.”

Butler: “This café offers tie-up menus with the museum’s exhibitions. That way, you cannot just enjoy the exhibited art, but also indulge in creative dishes prepared to evoke the spirit of the current exhibition. During lunchtime, you can get a full meal, such as the ‘Café 1894 Garden Plate Lunch’ (1,500 yen, tax excluded), and French-style cuisine is served during dinner time, along with a nice selection of wine. Why not come here for lunch or dinner the next time you are in Tokyo?”
Pink: “Oh, I will!”

Igarashi: “I mean, I live in Tokyo and didn’t even know that... when I hear Marunouchi, I think of work and office buildings, but not of relaxing cultural spots like these.”
Pink: “I am genuinely surprised that there are places like this around the super-crowded Tokyo Station. I loved wearing historic clothes and strolling through the historic museum! It was a brief adventure but I enjoyed every minute of it.”

Butler: “I am happy that the two of you had a good time. Marunouchi has so many charms to offer, so you should definitely plan a visit.”

Exploring the office jungle of Marunouchi

Inside the Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum

On a staircase in front of the Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum

Inside Café 1894

Exploring the office jungle on wooden geta

Actor: Yūichi Itō
Written by: Dai Igarashi
Photos by: Yoshikazu Ishikawa