A temple stay is typically called a “shukubo (宿坊)” in Japanese. It directly translates to “priest residence lodging”, and in the past they offered a place to rest to anyone on a pilgrimage route.

However, that doesn’t mean you need to be religious to stay in one, or even to be welcomed. Shukubo have always been places for all sorts of travelers, a sentiment that is still alive today. Most shukubo are very happy to welcome international visitors, and expect and encourage anyone to visit.

There are some notable differences between a temple stay and a stay at a hotel. A shukubo stay is much more like a minshuku or ryokan stay, which means there are set times for meals, you typically sleep on futons in tatami rooms, and there may be shared baths.

What makes a shukubo experience truly unique is the opportunity to participate in meditation and ceremonies with the monks themselves. You can also engage in other Buddhist activities, such as sutra writing (shakyo) and a fire ritual (goma taki).

Another difference between hotels and shukubo is the food. In line with Buddhist teachings, a vegetarian cuisine known as Shojin Ryori is served. This cuisine, prepared for guests, features elaborate kaiseki-style small plates.

The dishes are often quite creative, making good use of seasonal vegetables. If you have any allergies or dietary requirements, be sure to inform your accommodation in advance, as meals are typically prepared in large quantities with the same dishes for everyone.

Part of the appeal of staying at a shukubo is experiencing a taste of life as a monk, so the day starts and ends early. While participation in every ceremony or activity is not mandatory, it is highly recommended to make the most of your stay!

To see what it was like first-hand, I visited Rengejo-in. While every temple will have slightly different rules and schedules, this is a good representation of what you can expect from a temple stay in Koyasan!

At Rengejo-in, you can check in from 3 PM. On my visit, after walking through the main gate, I was greeted by a design that had been raked into the rock garden. These patterns are called “samon,” and change depending on things like the weather or seasons.

After taking my shoes off at the entrance and checking in, I’m shown to my room. There are a variety of different rooms at Rengejo-in, ranging from very simple to very luxurious.

This time, I’m in the Moonlight room, which has a thick mattress-like futon, a pristine private bath, extravagant artwork, and a view onto the central garden.

At 4:55 PM, a bell rings calling everyone to the meditation session, which starts at 5 PM. During my session, chief priest Ryusho Soeda guides us through the process, explaining in both Japanese and English. The type of meditation at Rengejo-in is Susokukan and Ajikan, both forms of mindfulness through breathing. Ryusho tells us to concentrate on our breath, counting to 10 over and over, and we begin our 40-minute session.

When I asked what we should think about during meditation, Ryusho said:
“Concentrate on your breathing. In Japanese, there is something called ‘mushin’ (free from obstructive thoughts) which we sometimes use to describe children playing. They are completely focused on playing, not concerned with anything else. When you meditate, you should emulate this idea of mushin.”

We are brought out of the session with a gentle but clear gong sound, and Ryusho tells us a story to help us reflect.

From the meditation room, we are directed to our assigned dinner seats in tatami rooms, where a number of small dishes are laid out on our tables. Many of them have lids to keep them warm, and there is rice and tea in the center for top-ups. My small plates are filled with everything from tofu and pickles to vegetable tempura and noodles. There is even a highly seasonal persimmon for dessert.

After dinner, you are free to do as you please. I took a trip to Danjo Garan Pagoda, which is beautifully lit up at night, and then returned for a bath.

Since I had passed curfew, I had to enter through the side door. Back in my room, I filled up the bathtub. Everything I needed was provided, including moisturizer, shampoo, and other bath items, as well as a comfy yukata robe and a hair dryer.

Afterward, I headed to bed, warmly wrapped in the futon.

Just as with the evening service, at 5:55 AM, the bell is rung to call us to the morning service, which starts at 6 AM.

This is different from the evening meditation, as it is an extended sutra reading in honor of the deceased. Before the ceremony, you can request for the name of a deceased loved one to be read in the service.

The monks chant the sutras in a rhythmic way, and you can participate by adding incense during a dedicated part of the ceremony.

Immediately after the morning service, we are once again shown to our same seats in the tatami area where our vegetarian Shojin Ryori breakfast awaits.

This is a much simpler meal than dinner, with only a few plates rather than an elaborate variety, but is still elegantly presented. Nori seaweed is in a small packet, so I wrap some rice in the nori and dip it in the small dish of soy sauce, and make my way through the other dishes.

Unlike a hotel, check out is quite early during a temple stay. But the 9 AM check-out time gives me a good buffer between breakfast and departure to gather my things and enjoy the temple atmosphere one last time before going out to see more of Koyasan.

At a Koyasan temple stay, the monks will be very welcoming, and particularly at Rengejo-in, have made sure that the facilities are easy to understand and use even for English speakers.

However, it is important to remember that this is primarily a temple, not a hotel, so there are a few things to keep in mind for the most comfortable and respectful stay.

In the temples, you are not allowed to pull the wheels of your suitcase along the floor, and must pick up and carry your own baggage.

If you know that your luggage is too heavy for this, it is best to either leave it in a locker in the town you came from, or to send it to your next destination by a courier service like Yamato Transport.

Generally speaking, Koyasan will be colder than surrounding cities in nearby prefectures, as it is a higher altitude – this is the only place in Wakayama Prefecture that regularly sees snow! Make sure to bring warm and comfortable clothing, and to check the weather forecast.

To be respectful, it is best not to show a lot of skin, but regular casual clothing like jeans and a T-shirt is perfectly fine. Also, note that you will not be wearing your shoes during your stay, so nice socks are a good idea!

If you have any allergies or dietary restrictions, make sure to let the shukubo know as far in advance as possible, so that they are able to prepare special dishes for you. Note that Shojin Ryori is typically vegetarian, and the meals at shukubo in Koyasan do not use milk, eggs, cheese, or other animal products.

The walls of the shukubo are typically quite thin, so try not to make too much loud noise late into the night.

During meditation, refrain from leaving partway through.

If you are not Buddhist, you don’t need to worry. The monks are very welcoming of everyone who walks through the temple doors.

The fire ceremony known as “gomataki” is only held once a month at Rengejo-in. A few other temples offer the ceremony every day, but if you cannot see it during your temple stay, you can see it for free at Shojoshin-in between 1-2 PM every day.

Booking can be done through reservation websites like Booking.com, or through the official website of the shukubo you would like to visit. See a list of Koyasan temple stays here.

A temple stay is a great way to feel the peace and calm of Koyasan from morning to evening without the worry of getting back to another city. I enjoyed my time at this particular shukubo, and I hope you will too!