For over 17 years, I have adored the world of sake. From Hokkaido to Kyushu, many of my travels around the country have led me to peaceful, more rural areas, and whenever I note that a place is surrounded by rice fields, I tend to search around for the local sake brewery.

While many breweries do not offer tours without contact in advance, many have a sales section where you can get a sense of the brewery and its products. And, for me, this is also a great chance to meet some of the people of the brewery and understand their character.

Now, in the world of sake brewing, there is a long-standing system centered around the toji, or master brewer. Toji oversee every stage of the brewing process. Historically, they formed regional guilds (known as ryuha), where they shared techniques, trained kurabito (brewery workers), and organized seasonal labor, among other things. While more than 30 toji guilds have existed across the Japan, the most influential are known as the “Three Great Toji”: Nanbu Toji (Iwate Prefecture), Echigo Toji (Niigata Prefecture), and Tamba Toji (Hyogo Prefecture).

While many breweries have shifted toward having in-house toji and year-round employed staff, there remains a strong exchange of brewing techniques among local brewers, and, often, a strong, supportive relationship with mutual respect.

At Kobayashi Shuzo, we were welcomed by CEO Masaki Kobayashi and his wife, and toji, Mayumi Kobayashi. Previously an instructor with the Nanbu Toji, Mayumi brings a wealth of skill and knowledge, and her direction has helped elevate Kobayashi Shuzo’s signature brand, Hououbiden, to become a greatly respected sake. Established in 1872 in Oyama, Tochigi, the brewery is located in a small village surrounded by vast green fields of rice. Now, Kobayashi Shuzo has two brewery facilities: a modern plant complete with equipment that helps tightly monitor and regulate each stage of production, and an older facility that produces sake with much more hands-on intervention.

Their philosophy came through immediately. “When I think about craft sake,” Masaki explained, “it’s about how the maker’s atmosphere, their energy, even their sense of style, is reflected in the sake.” Masaki and Mayumi both have friendly, genuinely warm smiles and a calm yet powerful aura around them.

As we moved through the brewery, I quickly understood this wasn’t a passive tour. At nearly each stage, we were encouraged to engage directly with the process, to touch, smell, and even taste along the way. I have joined several brewery tours in the past, but this was the first time to really enjoy a hands-on experience—very rare indeed.

Traditionally brewed sake has only four ingredients: rice, koji (a specialized mold), kobo (a specialized yeast), and water. It is the characteristics of each ingredient that lends to the final product.

Brown rice is “polished” in a process that removes the outer layers of each grain to eliminate fats and proteins that would alter the sake’s flavor profile. Ginjo sake, which is what Kobayashi Shuzo produces, requires at least 40% of the outer layer (bran) to be removed. After this, rice is rested before being washed, then soaked and steamed. As Masaki explained about the process, the sound of water was omnipresent, from whooshing jets of water to the calming trickle of water running into drains.

We handled freshly polished rice, including Ayama milled to 55% (meaning 45% of the outer layer has been removed), noticing its transparent texture. We handled steamed rice; slightly crisp on the outside. We were invited to give it a feel and even taste: firm texture with each grain distinct—very different from the familiar chew of soft sushi rice.

As we moved through the process, we entered the koji room. I kidded that it felt like a sauna, as its temperature was held at around 40°C (104°F) - the air itself feeling alive, humid, slightly sweet, and layered with something deeper, slightly floral but almost nutty. Koji, Masaki emphasized, is where sake’s character is truly formed. Watching the process up close made that clear. Each grain must be carefully inoculated, often by hand, ensuring the mold develops evenly. “Koji determines the structure (of the sake),” he explained, while yeast shapes the aromatics.

Subtle choices became easier to understand when experienced physically. How long and at what temperature a particular process is conducted, has dramatic consequences on the sake profile. That sensory approach extends all the way to the final product.

“Sake changes very quickly,” Masaki noted. “If you pour a glass and drink it right away, and then again after just a few minutes, the impression can be completely different.”

On April 29, Kobayashi Shuzo will present three distinct types of Hououbiden at CRAFT SAKE WEEK, including a rare, unexpected selection that’s sure to impress both first-time drinkers and seasoned enthusiasts.

Senkin was established in 1806 in Sakura City, Tochigi Prefecture, a peaceful valley surrounded by expansive rice fields. The name “Senkin” (仙禽) refers to a crane serving the gods, a symbol that reflects the brewery’s deep connection to nature and tradition. In fact, the brand’s logo and colors are reflective of this: red for love, white for tradition, and black for innovation, mirroring the appearance of the Japanese crane. Two brothers are now behind Senkin: toji Masato Usui and CEO Kazuki Usui.

As we entered Senkin’s brewery complex, I was struck by the incredible contrast between it and Kobayashi Shuzo. Whereas the latter’s traditional facility featured wood, Senkin’s was constructed of gorgeous blocks of Oya stone, a famous material formed from ancient underwater volcanic deposits and quarried locally in Tochigi. In Tokyo, I occasionally see izakaya adorned with the stone, but here it is used abundantly in thick, bold blocks.

As we entered Senkin’s brewery complex, I was struck by the incredible contrast between it and Kobayashi Shuzo. Whereas the latter’s traditional facility featured wood, Senkin’s was constructed of gorgeous blocks of Oya stone, a famous material formed from ancient underwater volcanic deposits and quarried locally in Tochigi. In Tokyo, I occasionally see izakaya adorned with the stone, but here it is used abundantly in thick, bold blocks.

With a similar bold personality, toji Masato greeted us in a calm, friendly manner. Thinking back to the concept of the “maker’s atmosphere,” he strikes me as a very genuine person with acute observation. My gaze slowly moves around the room, and I am fascinated by the structure: stone and wood. While waiting for others in our group to gather, he quietly mentions: “The Oya stone is great natural insulation.” And I understand these thick walls help regulate temperature and humidity year-round. And it insulates from sound as well: perhaps Masato’s voice is quieter because there seems to be no echo.

Here too, we followed the process step by step, from rice preparation to fermentation, gaining a clearer sense of how tightly controlled each stage must be. Temperature, timing, and handling are all carefully managed to avoid stressing the sake as it develops.

And when we get to the fermentation room, we climb up to peer into the tanks, listening to the soothing sounds of bubbling fermentation.

“We aim to balance both tradition and modernity,” Kazuki shared. “We follow some of the most traditional methods in Japan—no added yeast, wooden vats, and kimoto-style brewing—while ensuring the flavor fits modern tastes.”

The brothers take a patient, hands-on approach, staying closely involved at every stage and prioritizing quality over speed. Even the pressing is done at low temperatures to preserve delicate flavors.

Their selection of raw ingredients, especially rice, is just as meticulous. Masato explains that their rice is directly from individual rice growers in Tochigi rather than larger collectives, and that their brewing water is drawn from the same aquifer as the rice fields. That sensitivity to terroir is particularly compelling, and it comes as no surprise that Kazuki has a deep interest in wine—an influence that has helped shape his vision for sake.

As we move to the warm wood-and-stone of the tasting room, Kazuki sets three bottles on the countertop: “Classic,” “Modern,” and “Retro,” each with the corresponding brand color.

Each has a distinct flavor, but the commonality is a clean juiciness with a refreshing acidity. I can’t help pouring another glass and warming it in my hands to see how the aromatics change with time and temperature.

“If it doesn’t taste good, it doesn’t matter how natural it is,” Kazuki added. “That won’t work, especially internationally.”

Senkin will present three distinct types of sake at CRAFT SAKE WEEK on April 26, two of which are exclusive to the event.

For both breweries, CRAFT SAKE WEEK represents something special.

“It’s rare to have so many breweries gathered in one place,” Kazuki said. “We’ve been fortunate to take part since the very beginning 10 years ago. The selection process is strict, so it’s not something you can just join if you want to. Being invited back each time is truly an honor.”

This year marks the event’s 10th anniversary, and both breweries will be pouring exclusive sake created specifically for the occasion.

After hearing directly from the brewers, one thing becomes clear: craft sake is a combination of discipline and personality.

It’s respecting tradition while making deliberate choices at every step.

And above all, it’s creating something that carries the imprint of its maker, something that evolves, tells a story, and leaves a lasting impression. It’s the sip that makes you want to try more, that entices you to meet the people behind the drink.

At CRAFT SAKE WEEK, that’s exactly what you’ll be tasting.