Zao is one of the most popular sightseeing spots in the Tohoku region. It refers to Mount Zao and its mountain range which spans between Yamagata and Miyagi prefectures.

Zao is a resort where you can enjoy hot springs and winter activities. The site is so big that the address is split between Zao Onsen in Yamagata Prefecture and Zao-cho in Miyagi Prefecture.

The standard major sightseeing spots are Okama, the emerald green crater lake, the unique natural phenomenon of soft rime, and hot springs.

Unfortunately, the Okama area is off-limits during the winter season. Still, people swiftly forget about this because you can experience rime frost in other areas of Zao, alongside some fun snow activities.

To reach Zao Onsen from Tokyo, take the Yamagata Shinkansen "Tsubasa" train from JR Tokyo Station to JR Yamagata Station. Then, take the Yamako Bus from Yamagata Station for about 37 minutes to Zao Onsen Bus Terminal.

If you're traveling by air, fly to Yamagata Airport and take the sightseeing taxi "Oishi Yamagata Kankou Unko Liner" to Zao Onsen.

Rime frost, the main attraction of Zao in winter, can be seen in both prefectures. Tours are available from Zao Ropeway in Yamagata Prefecture and Sumikawa Snow Park in Miyagi Prefecture.

Both Zao Juhyo Tours (requiring reservations) use snowcats to reach the rime frost area. Also, at “Zao Onsen Ski Resort” near the Zao Ropeway, you can ski and snowboard in the rime frost area, which is truly a memorable activity for your Japan travels!

So, we put together a 2-day winter sightseeing plan at Zao Onsen in Yamagata Prefecture, where you can casually enjoy the rime frost.

Kicking off our 2-day itinerary, we venture to the Zao Onsen Ski Resort, conveniently located a brief 10-minute stroll from Zao Onsen Station. This extensive playground covers 305 hectares, featuring an array of 14 slopes and 12 courses, alive with the energy of skiers and snowboarders alike.

To start, pick up your ski lift ticket at the "Zao Base Center Jupeer," situated at Uwanodai Slope's base. Don't worry about packing heavy – you'll find ski, snowboard, and ski wear rentals available on site.

Once geared up, it's time to hit the slopes! Zao Onsen Ski Resort offers a diverse selection of courses worth exploring. Don't miss the "Jyuhyogen Course (rime frost course)," famous for its enjoyable slopes and mesmerizing views of the Snow Monsters.

If you want to witness the magnificent Juhyo "snow monsters", taking the ropeway is your best option. The resort has three ropeways, but only the Zao Ropeway offers a view of the rime frost fields.

Begin by boarding the ropeway at Zao Sanroku Station, then transfer to the Sancho Line at Juhyo-Kogen Station. Finally, disembark at Jizo Sancho Station. Once you reach the peak, you will enjoy a breathtaking view of the rime frost fields.

At Jizo Sancho Station, take a break at the restaurant that serves local cuisine and coffee. You'll find window seats that offer a view of the rime frost fields while you warm up. Don't forget to visit the rooftop observatory deck for an even better view! (Just be sure to bundle up: it can get incredibly cold and windy.)

Following a day filled with winter fun, unwind in the warmth of a hot spring. The hot spring district boasts three communal baths: Kaminoyu Kyodoyokujo, Shimonoyu Kyodoyokujo, and Kawahara Kyodoyokujo. A mere 10-minute walk from Zao Base Center Jupeer will get you to these inviting communal baths, all situated within 100 meters of one another, making it easy to indulge in hot spring hopping.

During our itinerary, we chose to visit Kaminoyu Kyodoyokujo, the nearest to the ski resort. Simply drop the bathing fee into the payment box at the entrance and step inside. The waters here are slightly warmer and have a gentle cloudy appearance, offering a soothing embrace that perfectly melts away the chill from our snowy adventures. The experience of the hot springs' warmth after exploring the snow-laden sights is the epitome of relaxation, marking a serene end to our day.

Continuing our 2-day itinerary, dinner awaits at the inviting Otochaya, just a 10-minute walk from Kaminoyu Kyodoyokujo. Welcoming to international guests with English-speaking staff, Otochaya is a favored spot among visitors from abroad. The menu features delightful options like the “Oyaji no Beef Curry” (880 yen) crafted with succulent Yamagata-gyu beef, and the “Signature dish Tsurami” (1,000 yen), a delectable ham made from Yamagata-gyu beef cheek meat. Another highlight is the extensive selection of beverages, including 20 types of craft beer, allowing for a truly enjoyable dinner experience complemented by exquisite craft beer.

For the second day of our itinerary, we'll embrace the essence of Zao Onsen by starting our morning with a rejuvenating dip at Shinzaemon no Yu, a day trip bathing facility located just a 5-minute walk from the Zao Onsen bus terminal.

At Shinzaemon no Yu, guests can indulge in a variety of baths, including the “Mogami Takayu,” a spring with water sourced directly from the ground, and the “Shi-Roku no Yu,” known for its gentle, soft water. A highlight is the spacious gender-segregated outdoor baths, where you can soak in warm waters while gazing out at the serene snow-covered landscape—a quintessentially Japanese experience not to be missed. Additionally, there’s a complimentary resting area where you can unwind and reflect on your tranquil bath experience.

Following our soothing morning bath, we'll make our way to Zao Souvenir Center Marushichi, situated just a four-minute walk from Yunohana Chaya Shinzaemon no Yu, for some shopping.

Here, explore an array of classic Zao Onsen souvenirs, including sweets and arts and crafts. Don't leave without trying the Zao no Shirabe, a sumptuous baked cheesecake that boasts a rich flavor, thanks to the local Zao cheese.

When hunger strikes, head to the nearby Kajimaya Ramen, Okumura Sobaya, or Sushikiraku Sushi to enjoy a hearty meal to fuel the rest of your day's adventures.

To finish our trip in Zao, let’s head over to “Yamagata Sake Museum & Bar Tsumami,” which is about a 3-minute walk from “Zao Center Plaza.”

The facility is split between the “Yamagata Sake Museum,” which sells sake from the 49 breweries in Yamagata, and “Bar Tsumami,” where you can enjoy Yamagata’s local cuisine. They also offer sake tasting starting from 300 yen per glass. As a side note, the bus terminal and Zao Tourist Association provide free drink coupons (limited to one glass per person.” We recommend acquiring a ticket before visiting. If you find a sake for your liking, you can always buy it as a souvenir.

Bar Tsumami starts from 5 PM. If you plan to spend another night in Zao, we recommend having dinner here.

And there you have it! Zao Onsen offers a comprehensive 2-day winter experience, with activities ranging from thrilling winter sports to relaxing hot springs, delicious dining, and charming sightseeing, all conveniently located within walking distance. The itinerary we've outlined is flexible, allowing you to tailor it to your preferences. Whether you stick to our plan or adjust it to suit your pace, you're set for an unforgettable winter adventure at Zao Onsen.

Text by: SHOE PRESs