Takeda Castle was originally built by Otagaki Mitsukage, a retainer of the powerful Yamana clan, in 1441. Situated atop Mount Shiroyama, the castle had a strategic advantage, overseeing the junction of two crucial routes and proximal to the Ikuno silver mine.

Throughout its history, it was central to the conflicts involving the Yamana and opposing clans like Akamatsu, Hosokawa, and Mori. By 1577, Toyotomi Hideyoshi seized it, and it was deserted after the 1600 Battle of Sekigahara. It is now recognized as one of Japan’s 100 most iconic castles.

Presently, only its stone walls and moats that run alongside mountain slopes, known as tatebori, can be seen, as the structures have eroded over the ages. Yet, its breathtaking views continue to draw visitors. Especially from autumn to early winter, an early morning visit reveals a truly mesmerizing scene.

Takeda Castle Ruins are located in Asago City, about 70 kilometers north of Himeji and northwest of Kyoto. The closest station is Takeda Station on the JR Bantan Line, which can be reached from Tokyo, Kyoto, or Osaka by taking the Tokaido / Sanyo Shinkansen to Himeji and then transferring to the JR Bantan Line. The one-way journey takes around 90-110 minutes and costs 1170 yen. It is covered by the Japan Rail Pass,

From Takeda Station, you can either walk or take a taxi to the castle ruins. The walk takes about an hour and involves a steep climb up a paved road. The taxi takes about 15 minutes.

The mountain peak sticking out of the thick fog surrounding the area looks like islands floating on a sea of clouds (or "unkai" in Japanese). Its popularity surged after a TV commercial showcased it.

To witness this spectacle, you'll need to head out early or join a tour: the sea of clouds emerges from late September to early December in the early morning.

The ruins open at 4:00 AM from September to November. In winter, they open at 10:00 AM, except on January 1 at 5:00 AM. From January 4 to February 28, the ruins are closed due to extreme cold.

Our journey began at the base of the Takeda Castle Ruins on a late November night.

As mentioned above, for the "sea of clouds" to form, conditions must be sunny with a noticeable morning-to-midday temperature difference, and mild winds. The best viewing window is from dawn to 8 AM.

Between September and November, the Takeda Castle Ruins attract many visitors seeking this phenomenon.

There are two primary vantage points: Mt. Kojo's peak, where the ruins sit, offers an expansive view from 4:00 AM to November 30. Alternatively, the Ritsuunkyo observatory on Mt. Asago provides a panorama of the ruins amidst the clouds.

Given the phenomenon's unpredictability and limited visiting time, we chose the castle ruins for our visit.

In winter, Ritsuunkyo remains accessible. However, with potential snowfalls exceeding 30cm, it's advisable to avoid heavy snow periods.

First, take a bus to the base of Mt. Kojo, then ascend its paved trail. Many start their climb early to capture the best shots of the unkai. After a 30-minute steep hike, using a flashlight, you'll reach the reception. By then, you'll be quite warm from the exertion. Beyond the reception, the lit-up stone walls are visible.

During the sea of clouds season at Takeda Castle Ruins, the stone walls are illuminated from 4:00 AM to around 5:30 AM. Seeing the illuminated stone walls in the dark with only stars and distant city lights is quite amazing.

With the castle’s tenshudai (foundation) in the center, the ruins spread about 100m to the east and west and about 400m to the north and south. We first went to the foundation of the castle, which is the highest point.

We were able to secure a spot at the front of the castle foundation. Looking down past the stone walls, we can see the faint orange glow of the town. If you look further, you can see some mist forming between the mountains.

After settling in and admiring the lights for an hour, dawn approached, and the illumination dimmed. As excitement grew among the onlookers, the roughly 10-meter square castle foundation became crowded with visitors.

As the sea of clouds starts getting closer to us, visitors start becoming quite excited. It seems like we were lucky this day, and as we wait a bit more...

The morning fog became thicker, and we were surrounded in no time. Such a mystical sight that everyone became enthralled.

Through the silence, you can hear all the cameras going off. There were also a bunch of people below the foundation.

Seeing clouds that are usually above your head down by your feet. It feels like you are looking down on the earth from heaven.

Then as the sun becomes visible, a cheer erupts from the crowd.

A view that shows us how breathtaking nature is. The cloud illuminated by the sun looks like ocean waves. A beautiful contrast with the mountains.

After taking in the view, we head down the mountain. The path in the castle ruins are one-way, and the exit leads to the path down. On our way up, it was pitch black, but we can see the sea of clouds from time to time on the way down.

As we descended back to earth from heaven, we said our goodbyes to Takeda Castle Ruins.

After descending the mountain, we drove to Ritsuunkyo on the side of Mt. Asago. Though past the prime time for the unkai, we aimed for the observatory to see Takeda Castle Ruins.

Starting our hike, a sign at the trailhead showed Observatory 3 was 5 minutes away, and Observatory 1 was 20 minutes. We opted for Observatory 1 to experience its unique perspective.

We should have been tired from climbing to the Takeda Castle Ruins, but we couldn’t feel any fatigue after such a magnificent view. We used the bamboo poles available at the path entrance as walking sticks and worked our way up.

We climbed for 20 minutes enjoying the trees surrounding the path and an area with a cute waterfall.

The view of the castle ruins where we were. Just as we expected, the sea of clouds was gone, but the view is still breathtaking, however for people who wanted to see the sea of clouds from here, worry not.

Floating on the sea of clouds, these castle ruins really fit the title of Castle in the Sky.

As we climbed down, I wondered how magnificent the view must have been when the castle was still standing. Also, we promised to get a view of the sea of clouds from Ritsuunkyo the next time.

Other than the view of the sea of clouds, there are other places to visit.

First is the Tourist Information Center Tenku-no Shiro right in front of JR Takeda Station at the base of the Takeda Castle Ruins.

At Tourist Information Center Tenku-no Shiro, there are panels on display that explain the history of the castle and a diorama of Mt. Kojo with the castle ruins.

Takeda Castle Ruins is not just an amazing scenic spot but also an important mountain castle ruin. This is a great place to stop by when you visit the ruins.

Also, you can’t forget about gifts. Many souvenirs are sold at shops at the foot of the ruins and along the mountain path. Some items are exclusive to these locations.

Moreover, Mt. Kojo shouldn't be overlooked. Alongside the Takeda Castle Ruins, the mountain offers diverse pathways leading to its summit, including routes from its base that let visitors savor the natural landscape.

These well-kept trails are beginner-friendly, making them ideal for outdoor aficionados. With changing vistas across seasons, Mt. Kojo promises year-round beauty.

Experiencing the stunning views from Takeda Castle Ruins firsthand is truly unforgettable and a memory to treasure.

Close to the iconic Takeda Castle Ruins, numerous hotels cater to travelers. Not only do these accommodations promise comfortable lodgings, but they also serve as an ideal starting point for those eager to witness the early morning "sea of clouds" phenomenon.

Text by: Advision