Despite living in Tokyo for nearly a year and a half, my bucket list for traveling Japan is still long. Stretching from snowy Hokkaido to subtropical Okinawa, it feels like every region has its own personality. When I finally had the chance to experience Hokkaido in winter, I was excited to head to a part of Japan that many tout as one of the most unique and must-visit destinations.

While snowboarding was the main reason for the trip, it wasn’t the only one. I’d heard from enough Japanese friends that Hokkaido has some of the best food in the country, and I was just as excited to eat my way through Sapporo and Niseko as I was to ride.

After arriving late-evening in Sapporo from the airport, we were definitely feeling fatigued, but the moment we stepped out of Sapporo Station, the cold air jolted us awake. Being from the Midwest, I’m no stranger to below-freezing temperatures but getting acclimated to Tokyo’s relatively mild winter, Hokkaido was a reminder that winter can mean something completely different depending on where you are.

Being around Christmastime, the streets were lined with trees wrapped in lights, which made the whole city feel a little extra festive. The Sapporo TV Tower was lit up and the surrounding artwork made it truly feel like a winter wonderland. While I would have liked to walk while admiring the illumination, the streets being covered in ice shifted my focus to my boots, where every step was made with caution. Having arrived in Sapporo around 9:30 PM with no plan, we decided the best course of action was to follow the crowds to find the more lively areas of the city.

To kick off our first night, we wandered over to Susukino Intersection, Sapporo’s version of Shibuya crossing. Between the billboards and the iconic Nikka sign, it felt like the city’s way of saying, welcome to Hokkaido.

We asked a local for an izakaya recommendation that served Hokkaido specialties, and they pointed us to Aiyo, saying it had great sashimi and sake for a solid price. The place had exactly the vibe we were hoping for: local, warm, and cozy, with a lineup of Hokkaido sakes that made it a great start to our night. We decided to keep it light and order a few smaller dishes as we didn’t want to fill up too much. We had one more mission for the night: Hokkaido miso ramen that’s designed to warm you up from the inside out.

The highlight was the sashimi platter that included locally caught seafood, the perfect first meal in town. Of course, we had to try Hokkaido crab. It was sweet and delicate in a way I didn’t expect, and it instantly made me understand why people hype the seafood up here so much. We paired the sashimi with a Hokkaido sake, Kokushi Musō, which was served hot and was the perfect accompaniment on a cold winter night.

To my surprise, Sapporo was still bustling late on a frigid Wednesday night. I wanted to give my friend a taste of the Japanese nightlife I’d gotten used to over the past year and a half, so we made our next stop at a darts bar. Honestly, throwing darts and drinking beers is the perfect way to stay out of the cold without calling it an early night.

We made the mistake of challenging a few kind locals, but we were no match and got crushed in all four games. In hindsight, we probably should’ve known better than to go up against people who looked like they’d been playing since middle school. Hours flew by like minutes, and with our late-night ramen box still unchecked, we bundled back up and headed out to find a spot to end the night the right way.

I reached out to a friend who’d been to Sapporo recently and asked for a ramen recommendation, and he pointed us toward Keyaki for classic Hokkaido miso ramen. When we arrived and saw a line of about eight people at 12:30 in the morning, I knew we were in the right place.

We waited around 30 minutes in the cold but it was absolutely worth it. I ordered the spicy miso ramen, topped with corn and Hokkaido butter as you do in Hokkaido on a winter’s night. Coming from someone who’s made ramen a weekly habit since moving to Japan, this was hands down the best bowl I’ve had so far and I promise I’m not just saying that for the article.

The broth had a deep, savory richness that tasted like it had been building flavor all day, and the butter melted in and added a smooth creaminess I hadn’t really experienced in ramen before. If you’re in Sapporo and want one bowl that lives up to the hype, Keyaki is it. Wanting to escape the cold, we called it a night and rested up for another day of travel.

The following day, we realized we still hadn’t had our fill of fresh seafood so we reserved a sushi and crab lunch at Kani Tsuji. The restaurant had an upscale vibe from the moment we walked in but never felt intimidating. Even with the polished setting and a private dining room we still felt genuinely welcomed.

The staff were very formal in the best way, and they took time to describe each dish in English and Japanese as it came out, explaining what it was, how to eat it, and where the seafood had been sourced from. That attention to detail made the meal feel more intentional, like we weren’t just eating sushi but rather getting a small tour of Hokkaido’s local catches.

The highlight was the steamed crab. It was sweet with a subtle briny flavor, and we could immediately tell it was fresh. The nigiri was just as impressive, and one small detail I loved was that they had already mixed soy sauce into the rice, so you didn’t have to dip anything, making every piece feel more balanced, and alluding that each bite was crafted exactly the way the chefs intended.

The portion size was perfect too—enough to feel full but not stuffed—which made it an ideal final meal in Sapporo before we packed up and headed to Niseko.

After sorting out our rentals and dropping our bags at our vacation rental, we headed into downtown Niseko for dinner. We were craving burgers, so we landed on Wagyu to Worldwide Niseko. The menu gave us two patty choices—Kuroge Wagyu or Kobe beef—and that’s when I had my first real encounter with “Niseko prices.” Their wagyu burgers start at 1,980 yen, and the Kobe burgers start at a wild 4,580 yen.

I’ll be honest: it immediately felt like we’d walked into a tourist trap. I’ve lived in Tokyo long enough to have eaten my fair share of overpriced, underwhelming burgers, so I ordered the classic wagyu burger and truffle fries fully expecting it to be more hype than substance.

I couldn’t have been more wrong. The patty was genuinely one of the juiciest I’ve ever had, and the truffle fries were so addictive they disappeared in minutes. It was the rare “expensive” meal that actually delivered. By the time we finished, I had to admit: it was worth every yen, and it was a pretty perfect start to our Niseko trip.

Later in the trip, we came across the Instagram page of a barbecue spot serving A5 wagyu brisket right next to the resort: Smokemanship. Their Niseko location had just opened on December 19th, the day before we stopped by. It’s a food-truck setup with a service window which makes it super easy to grab and go. The service was friendly, with the friendly staff taking time to help us decide what to order, which was nice since we didn’t want to eat too much before getting back on the mountain.

We split the A5 wagyu brisket combo for 7,700 yen that included the brisket, pork ribs, pulled pork, pork & beans, and cornbread. The brisket was the real deal: smoky, juicy, ridiculously tender but my favorite was the ribs. Their coffee BBQ sauce is a must try, with its rich, slightly bitter kick at first, then finished with an umami depth that will leave you licking your fingers for more.

Wanting to switch back to Japanese food after a stretch of burgers and BBQ, social media pointed us to Ezo Seafoods for sushi. It’s a takeout only spot, so you'll have to reserve ahead of time. We placed our order the morning of and were able to secure a pickup slot without any issues, but I would recommend reserving when you arrive in Niseko if you go during peak season.

We went with the Edomae Sushi Collection (18,000 yen), which came with a solid variety of nigiri plus a roll. The menu also had other options like crab, oysters, and uni, so if you’re going with a group you could easily build a bigger spread. While the price was on the higher side, the quality delivered: the sushi was fresh and well executed, and the presentation was next level. The box was beautifully crafted and almost gift-like. Split between two people, we were pretty full, and it made for an easy, satisfying meal that we could enjoy slowly back at our place.

After driving back from Niseko to Sapporo to catch our flight to Tokyo, we had to check one last box on the Hokkaido food list: Jingisukan, Hokkaido’s iconic lamb BBQ. It’s a local style of grilling lamb (or mutton) and vegetables on a distinctive dome-shaped metal grill, often vaguely resembling a soldier’s helmet, and the name comes from the old legend that Mongolian soldiers once cooked meat this way. Jingisukan is a Hokkaido soul food staple and you’ll see it everywhere around Sapporo and a must get if you’re ever up north.

We went to Furano no Hitsuji near Susukino Station and did an all-you-can-eat lunch course for 4,500 yen each, focusing on lamb shoulder and lamb loin. The lamb tasted clean, tender, and was easy to keep eating, without having a gamey flavor. They also had a bunch of condiments to mix and match, like yuzu pepper sauce and yama-wasabi which gave everything a sharp, punchy kick to cut the rich meatiness of the lamb. We definitely pushed the all-you-can-eat to its limit, and it made for the perfect final meal in Hokkaido.

Hokkaido food more than lived up to the hype. Everything tasted noticeably fresher than what I’m used to in Tokyo. Whether it was the midnight miso ramen, fresh crab and sushi, or lamb sizzling on a grill, the meals felt like they were designed for winter: rich, warm, and the kind of food that warms and satisfies the soul.

Getting to experience this side of Japan—the snow, the slower pace, and the comfort-food culture—made the trip feel bigger than just a snowboard getaway. It’s the kind of place that makes you want to come back the moment you leave.

Written by: Hikaru Carolin