Winemaking in Hokkaido began in 1876 with the establishment of the Sapporo Wine Brewery. However, it struggled to gain popularity and closed in 1913.

After several decades of inactivity, winemaking returned to Hokkaido with the launch of Tokachi Wine in 1963. Furano Wine followed in 1972, and Hakodate Wine in 1973.

Since 2000, Japan's growing interest in domestic wine has attracted a new generation of winemakers, along with newcomers from other industries. At the same time, climate change has made it possible to grow high-quality European wine grapes in Hokkaido. As a result, the number of wineries in the prefecture has grown from around 30 a decade ago to 75 as of October 2025. Today, Hokkaido is attracting attention both in Japan and abroad as one of the country's leading wine-producing regions.
We headed to the Ikeda Town Grape and Wine Research Institute, better known as Wine Castle, located about 40 kilometers northeast of Tokachi-Obihiro Airport. Home to Japan's first municipal winery and the producer of Tokachi Wine, it is also the oldest winery still operating in Hokkaido and a pioneer of the region's wine industry.

Our destination was the Ikeda Town Grape and Wine Research Institute (commonly known as the Wine Castle), located about 40 km northeast of Tokachi-Obihiro Airport. This is Japan’s very first municipal winery, dedicated to producing Tokachi Wine. As the oldest surviving winery in Hokkaido, it is a true pioneer of winemaking in the region.

The story of Tokachi Wine began in 1960. After a series of natural disasters left the town facing a financial crisis, local government officials turned to grape growing and winemaking as a way to revitalize the community.
There was just one problem: grapes are highly sensitive to cold weather. With winter temperatures dropping to -30°C (-22°F) and damaging frosts common in both spring and autumn, Tokachi was widely considered unsuitable for grape cultivation.
Tatsuya Ichinohe of Wine Castle's Sales Department explains

"The first step was developing a grape variety that could survive Tokachi's climate. We imported seedlings of the relatively cold-hardy Seibel grape from France and spent five years conducting clonal selection before developing our own variety, Kiyomi. Even so, Kiyomi still struggles to make it through the winter. To protect the vines from the cold, they have to be buried after harvest and dug up again in the spring, which made it difficult to improve productivity."

Researchers then turned their attention to wild mountain grapes, which thrive even in Tokachi's harsh climate. By crossing them with Kiyomi, they developed two new varieties: Yamasachi and Kiyomai. Of the two, Yamasachi is particularly distinctive, producing deeply colored wines with the bold, rustic character of wild grapes. In 2020, it was added to the list of recognized grape varieties maintained by the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV).

Furthermore, in January 2022, the red wine variety "Mirai" and the white wine variety "Ginga" were newly registered as domestic varieties.
"Of the roughly 21,000 grape varieties we've experimented with over the years, only four have been registered as official domestic varieties. From planting a seedling to harvesting the grapes, making the wine, and evaluating the results takes about three years. Even after all that time and effort, many varieties simply don't make the cut. It's impossible not to admire the dedication and perseverance of those who came before us."

The seedlings of uniquely developed varieties like Yamasachi and Kiyomai, which are valuable town assets, are also sold to home gardeners and professional farmers. The widespread availability of cold-hardy grapes among growers has catalyzed the growth of new wineries across the Eastern Hokkaido area.
At Wine Castle, visitors can explore the history of Tokachi Wine, tour the production facilities for wine, sparkling wine, and brandy, and enjoy tastings in the shop area.

After enjoying the castle sightseeing, let's treat ourselves to a pairing of Tokachi Wine and local ingredients at the Wine Castle Restaurant on the 4th floor.

The highly recommended dishes are the "Hors d'oeuvre Platter" and the "Donald Salmon Carpaccio."

An assortment of homemade ham, terrine, and other specialties made with Tokachi black pork from Abe Farm in Ikeda Town. Raised on custom-blended feed in a low-stress environment, the pork is prized for its tender texture and rich, natural sweetness.

This carpaccio features Donald Salmon, a type of rainbow trout raised by Takenaka Fishery in Ikeda Town. Because the fish are farmed in spring water, they can be safely enjoyed raw. Each fish is prepared only after an order is placed, ensuring exceptional freshness. The result is rich, flavorful flesh with a firm texture and plenty of natural fat throughout the year.
The absolute best pairing for these dishes is the Wine Castle exclusive "Yubae no Shiro (White)."

Crafted from Kerner and Müller-Thurgau grapes, this slightly sweet white wine offers a refreshing acidity and a delicate sweetness. Its fruity profile beautifully enhances the natural flavors of the ingredients. The chef also highly recommends "Seiorosamu White (830 yen per glass)," a blended wine that has been a staple of Tokachi Wine since its early days.

The Wine Castle Restaurant also offers the "Yubae Dinner" (from 3,800 yen / completely reservation-only) exclusively on Saturdays.

As the sun sets over the town, lucky visitors may even spot a flock of red-crowned cranes flying overhead. Combined with locally sourced cuisine and Tokachi Wine, the view makes for a memorable dining experience.

Ikeda Town Grape and Wine Research Institute (Wine Castle)
Address: 83-4 Kiyomi, Ikeda-cho, Nakagawa-gun, Hokkaido
TEL: Wine & products 015-572-2467, Tourism & Shop 015-578-7850, Restaurant 015-578-7857
Hours: 9 AM – 5 PM, Restaurant 10:30 AM – 5 PM (last order at 4:30 PM). The "Yubae Dinner" is held every Saturday until 8 PM (last order at 7 PM). Reservations required by 5 PM the previous day.
Closed: New Year holidays / Restaurant closed on Tuesdays
Admission: Free

Savoring "Ikeda Beef" with Tokachi Wine: The Ultimate Pairing Experience at Restaurant Yonekura

When visiting Ikeda Town in Tokachi, there is one more culinary delight you absolutely cannot miss: "Ikeda Beef."

These Akaushi (Japanese Brown) cattle are raised on a special diet that includes grape pomace—a byproduct of Tokachi Wine production. This results in a leaner cut with subtle marbling, offering a rich, lean beef that unlocks more sweetness with every bite.

While highly exclusive and rarely found on the open market, you can experience this exceptional beef firsthand at "Restaurant Yonekura."

Established in 1905, Restaurant Yonekura originally began by selling its famous Banana Manju and ekiben (station bento boxes) at JR Ikeda Station before transitioning into a sit-down restaurant in 1976. Hiroyuki Yonekura, the representative director, says

"We opened the restaurant because we wanted visitors who came for the wine to also experience locally raised beef alongside Tokachi Wine from Wine Castle. That's what led us to start serving Ikeda Beef. In fact, we've been offering it since before it was even known as 'Ikeda Beef.' At the time, it wasn't yet an established brand. More than anything, we wanted to showcase the town's local specialties and share the appeal of Ikeda with as many people as possible."

With practiced hands, Chef Takashi Ezaki places the Ikeda Beef onto a sizzling iron griddle. Carefully monitoring the meat as it cooks, he uses years of experience to determine exactly when it has reached the ideal doneness.

The final touch is a splash of Tokachi Wine. It helps tenderize the meat while creating a clean, refreshing finish that lets the beef's rich juices shine. Together, the flavors of the Ikeda Beef and Tokachi Wine come together in perfect balance.

Attention Wine Lovers! Bring Your Favorite Bottle from the Wine Castle!

At Restaurant Yonekura, you can bring in your favorite bottle of wine purchased at the Wine Castle to pair with their premium Ikeda Beef sirloin steak. Why not create your own exclusive pairing experience with "Yamasachi"—the signature grape variety that the Wine Castle poured its heart into creating?

◆Restaurant Yonekura
Address: 1-27 Odori, Ikeda-cho, Nakagawa-gun, Hokkaido
TEL: 015-572-2032
Hours: 9 AM – 5 PM (last order at 4 PM)
Closed: Thursdays
※Please note that the business format changed from January 2026, so please check the official website before visiting.

Source & Cooperation: DO tabi by AIRDO
Reprinted with permission from "DO tabi," the official travel site of AIRDO.

In Cooperation with: AIRDO Co., Ltd.
Founded to help revitalize Hokkaido’s economy, AIRDO is based in Sapporo and operates 11 routes linking Hokkaido with Honshu and Fukuoka. Guided by its vision of accessible, high-quality travel, it offers a warm, customer-focused flying experience.

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