The Kii Mountains is a mountainous region with peaks rising to elevations of 1,000 to 2,000 meters on the Kii Peninsula spanning Wakayama, Mie, and Nara prefectures. This has long been thought to be a special, tranquil area of the gods since mythical times.

Furthermore, after the arrival and spread of Buddhism in Japan, the heavily forested mountains of the Kii mountain range came to be regarded as the "Pure Land" of the Amidabha Buddha and Kannon Bodhisattva, and became a place where monks went to undergo training.

This resulted in the creation of the pilgrimage roads in the Kii Mountains as they led to the three sacred sites of Kumano Sanzan, Koyasan, and Yoshino Omine, each having its own origin and content, and it had a major influence on the development and spread of religion and culture in Japan.

In 2004, the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountains, including the Kumano Kodo, were designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Kumano Kodo refers to the pilgrimage roads leading to Kumano Sanzan (Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Grand Shrine, and Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine). From the Heian Period through the Edo Period, many pilgrims walked these routes, which are now popular among trekking and walking enthusiasts for their natural beauty. There are model courses for beginners, experienced hikers, and mountain crossings, and tours with storyteller guides are available. People from around the world visit to experience these historic paths.

I chose to walk the Hosshinmon'oji to Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine course (7 km), the most popular route for tourists, known as the 5-hour Storyteller Course created by the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau.

Ms. Emiyo Kato from the Kumano Hongu Storytellers Association met me at the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine, our meeting point.

"Thank you for guiding me today. I’m new at this, so please go easy on me," I said to Ms. Kato.

"This course is designed for beginners, so you need not worry. Shall we get started?" she replied with a charming smile.

We began by taking a bus from the Hongu Grand Shrine bus stop to Hosshinmon'oji. The bus ride took about 20 minutes. After getting off the bus and walking a short distance, I arrived at a stone monument inscribed with "World Heritage Kumano Pilgrimage Road Nakahechi."

“We will take the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi route. During the Heian Period, it was known as Kumano Mode [pilgrimage], and retired emperors and former emperors with Buddhist names traveled from Kyoto to walk this Kii Road,” explained Ms. Kato.

Ms. Kato explained, adding fascinating details. The Kumano Hongu Storytellers Association, to which she belongs, consists of local volunteers dedicated to introducing and explaining the attractions of the Kumano Kodo.

All storytellers in this group are Kumano Kodo experts. Only those who have attended monthly study sessions and passed a rigorous examination after extensive training are qualified to become "storytellers" and guide tourists.

After giving a general explanation of Kumano Kodo, Ms. Kato told me about Hosshinmon'oji, our starting point. In the past, pilgrims would worship at many small shrines, called “oji” in Japanese, constructed along the Kumano Kodo as they journeyed through the mountains.

These shrines served as rest areas for the pilgrims and as places where they worshiped the gods of Kumano, called Mikogami. Many of these shrines, including the highly prestigious Gotaioji, mark the path leading to the holy precincts of the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine, which begins at Hosshinmon'oji. This spot is considered the entrance to Kumano Sanzan.

Essentially, the walking course we are taking today is the final stretch of the long Kumano Mode path. And with that, we set off, with Ms. Kato guiding me along the way.

Once you leave Hosshinmon'oji, the path takes you past mountain villages for a while. Though not very wide, the narrow road is paved and easy to walk. “Of course, in the olden days when pilgrims walked it, it was not paved, but as people began living in small clusters along the road, they had sections of it paved,” Ms. Kato explained.

I was relieved to hear that, as I had imagined the path to be very precipitous and steep. Instead, it felt more like a leisurely stroll than a challenging trek. I enjoyed the peaceful landscape as we walked along.

In addition to discussing the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, Ms. Kato shared other interesting tidbits, such as the types of wildflowers growing along the path, locations used in television dramas, and various anecdotes to engage and entertain.

Everywhere I looked, there were beautiful landscapes. Walking along this quiet, tree-lined path in the cool, crisp, clean air while chatting was refreshingly delightful.

“Look! There’s a Jizo [guardian deity of children and travelers]. When it was made, they probably never imagined the tree would become this large,” Ms. Kato pointed out.

This is, after all, the Kumano Kodo. The Jizo statues were made as memorials for the repose of the souls of those who died on the pilgrimage before completing it, so the road is lined with many Jizo.

As we walked and I enjoyed listening to Ms. Kato's　explanations, the path began to feel like an old road. The hills were not that steep, but the course did begin to seem more like a mountain path.

"Along the path, tree trunks that have been cut down have been made into benches where you can take a rest. A little further on is the favorite spot of a member of a nationally popular male idol group,” Ms. Kato mentioned.

Since then, this place has been called “Bed in the Forest.” That has a nice ring to it. Eager to see the spot, I picked up my pace.

“This is it. Go ahead and lie down on it,” Ms. Kato said, pointing to a spot off to the side of the path. Two logs, about the length of a person, were placed side by side among the tall trees.

Following her suggestion, I laid down on them.

When I looked up...

“It looks like a kaleidoscope,” I imagined the idol might have muttered to himself while lying here and gazing up at the fantastic view of the trees reaching toward the sky. Even though the sky was a bit overcast, it was still an impressive sight.

We resumed our pleasant walk, bathed in negative ions and enjoying the natural beauty of Kumano as we strolled through the woods. The course soon took us to a road skirting a small village.

“We will soon be at the Fushiogami Shrine. Let’s take lunch there,” Ms. Kato suggested.

We took a lunch break at the Fushiogami Tea House, located next to the Fushiogami Shrine. This spot is about four kilometers from where we set out. It seemed farther, perhaps because of our leisurely pace, but in any case, I was looking forward to having lunch.

The Fushiogami Tea House is a free rest area built in the style of a mountain hut along the old pathway. When we arrived some ladies were in the back doing some sort of work.

Ms. Kato explained, “Volunteers from the local Ladies Association sell tea, umeboshi plums, Japanese basil juice, and hot spring coffee.”

I was greeted with, “Say, young man. Won’t you have something to drink?” The friendly conversation of these ladies was as warm and engaging as that of Ms. Kato.

I chose the Japanese basil juice.

One must not forget that Kishu is famous for its umeboshi. Making umeboshi is very popular in this area, and the red Japanese basil, an essential ingredient, is widely produced here. One of the ladies laughingly said, “More grows than we can use,” so the drink is made with an abundance of red Japanese basil, giving it just the right tartness to refreshingly quench my thirst. A bit tired from the walk, the drink was a good pick-me-up.

Another lady recommended the hot spring coffee. Hot spring coffee? The Yunomine Hot Spring in Kumano is said to be the oldest hot spring in Japan, having been in use for 1,800 years. Since ancient times, Kumano Kodo pilgrims have performed hot-water ablutions here to purify themselves. “Hot spring coffee is coffee made from that hot spring water,” Ms. Kato explained. The coffee was also delicious.

Having quenched my thirst, I turned my attention to lunch. I had ordered a lunch box through the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau website when I signed up for the walking tour, so it was waiting for me at the meeting place when I arrived.

The name of the lunch box is...

The Kumano Kodo Lunch Box, made by Omuraya, a bed and breakfast located at a nearby river hot spring, is specially designed for storytellers and walking guided tours.

It comes in a very stylish bamboo box.

Voila!!

It contains four types of small rice balls and Meharizushi for which Kumano is famous. It is filled with stewed mountain vegetables and other seasonal ingredients. All are deliciously flavored and the perfect lunch for a walk in the mountains.

This is indeed the perfect lunch to enjoy surrounded by the mountains of Kumano in this beautiful natural setting. It will satisfy both your stomach and heart.

After savoring the juice and boxed lunch, we continued our walk, feeling refreshed. Our first stop was climbing the stairs leading to the top of a hill beside the Fushiogami Tea House.

"This is the Fushiogami Shrine," Ms. Kato explained. "It earned its name because pilgrims who journeyed along the Nakahechi Trail could catch a glimpse of their final destination, the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine, from this vantage point."

From the hill's summit, the sight was breathtaking. The mountains shrouded in white clouds exuded a mystical ambiance, evoking a sense of spiritual connection.

"Though obscured by the clouds, our ultimate destination, the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine, lies right in the heart of that vista," Ms. Kato pointed out. "We should reach there in about an hour."

As we embarked on the final stretch of our journey, I couldn't help but think how smooth the walk had been thus far. "If the rest of the way is anything like this," I mused to myself, "it should be a breeze." But just as I entertained that thought, the rain began to fall.

They say mountain weather is unpredictable, and according to Ms. Kato, this area is particularly prone to rainfall. It's not uncommon for the weather to suddenly shift from clear skies to rain. So, if you plan to visit, make sure to pack your rain gear!

Leaving Fushiogami Shrine behind, we continued our journey through the mountains, passing tranquil villages and admiring the neatly groomed tea fields scattered along the way.

As the rain intensified, I couldn't help but acknowledge the irony of my seemingly perpetual rain-soaked travels. My usually reserved cameraman couldn't resist a grumble, blaming my presence for our soggy luck.

"How fortunate we are to partake in this 'purification ceremony' brought by the rain. Once it's over, something good is sure to come our way," remarked Ms. Kato, her optimism shining through.

Impressed by her unwavering positivity, contrasting sharply with my cameraman's grumbling, I found myself buoyed by her words. With renewed determination, we pressed on through the mountains, undeterred by the rain.

At last, we reached a spot recommended by Ms. Kato. "We're almost there. Can you spot the Torii gate of the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine?" she asked, pointing towards it. Sure enough, it stood out in the hazy distance, a beacon of our destination. Its sight stirred a feeling of reverence within me, urging me to offer a silent prayer.

With the goal within reach, we pressed on. As we drew closer, the rugged dirt path gradually gave way to the meticulously laid stonework of the Kumano Kodo mountain trail. The path widened, welcoming us closer to our journey's end.

It's a common misconception that the Kumano Kodo is entirely paved with stones. Ms. Kato explained that since ancient times, sections of the path have been meticulously maintained with stones, especially in areas with steep inclines, as a precaution against heavy rainfall.

Even today, the stone pavement is regularly tended to. However, the exact origins of its construction remain shrouded in mystery, leaving us to speculate about its inception.

Finally we arrived at the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine. I offered a final prayer.

Drenched to the bone from the rain, I whispered a silent plea for happiness to come from the purification ceremony, hoping the gods of Kumano would hear my prayer.

Despite the downpour, I somehow managed to accomplish my mission. Surprisingly, instead of feeling drained from the ordeal, I found myself uplifted. The rain-soaked trek left me feeling oddly refreshed and invigorated.

Walking the Kumano Kodo on a rainy day might not be anyone's first choice, but even amidst the showers, I found the journey to be surprisingly enjoyable. If you ever venture this way, don't forget to enlist the company of a skilled storyteller—it adds an extra layer of magic to the experience.

Text by:Advision