Nagahama City is located in the northeastern part of Shiga Prefecture. It is famous for being the site where Toyotomi Hideyoshi, whose name at the time was Hashiba Hideyoshi, had his first castle as a daimyo (feudal lord).

Nagahama prospered as an inn town on the Hokkoku Kaido, a highway that connected the area with Edo (present-day Tokyo) during the Edo period. Old-style houses of the period line the street giving the area a retro feeling and are a short 5-minute walk from the station.

Many merchants came and went to Nagahama because it employed a system called Rakuichi-Rakuza [free markets and open guilds] which did not tax commercial transactions.

The system was maintained after the Edo period and into the Meiji era and as it brought economic prosperity to the city, many banks established branches here.

One of these was the 130th National Bank Nagahama Branch. The wooden Western-style building was built in 1900 and due to its black plaster exterior, it was commonly called the Kurokabe [Black Wall] Bank.

In the middle of the Showa Era, large stores opened in the suburbs one after another, and Nagahama became less prosperous. At about the same time, fearing that the Kurokabe Bank would be demolished, concerned citizens in the community began a movement for its preservation by forming the Kurokabe Co., Ltd. This was the beginning of efforts to revitalize the community.

The Kurokabe Bank became the Kurokabe Glass Shop when it was newly opened in 1989.

The area where glass shops, workshops, cafes, and other businesses are gathered around the Kurokabe Glass Shop is called Kurokabe Square, and it is now one of the largest sightseeing spots with nearly 2 million visitors each year. Many tourists from outside the prefecture visit on holidays.

Designated a Tangible Cultural Property, the interior of the Kurokabe Glass Shop is the same as it was when it was the Kurokabe Bank. Domestic glass items are displayed on the first floor and foreign glass items are offered on the second floor.

The same glass items will have different designs and colors depending on the country from where they come. On a fine day the glass objects are especially beautiful when bathed in sunlight.

The glass pens at Kurokabe Glass Shop are especially popular. These finely detailed works of art are made entirely of glass.

There are also flowers made of glass that will never wilt....

Cute pill cases with finely detailed flowers are sure to tickle a girl's heart.

You can actually observe glass artisans crafting art objects in the Kurokabe Glass Studio that is adjacent to the Kurokabe Glass Shop.

Currently there are about 10 glass artisans working here. Watching the artisans blowing glass, making stained glass, and etching glass is so enjoyable that it is easy to lose track of the time.

About now it is time for lunch. There is one shop in Nagahama where you really get good value for your money in spite of being in a tourist area. So without further ado, let’s go there!

Torikita is just a few minutes’ walk along the Ekimae Avenue extending from JR Nagahama Station. On holidays and weekends there is already a long line of people waiting to get in when the shop opens at 11:30.

The shop is famous for its Oyakodon and Kashiwanabe. These cost only 580 yen and 420 yen (tax included in both)! And you can order both dishes together for just 1,000 yen, which is really reasonable. Originally the shop served torisuki (sukiyaki made with chicken) at tables on tatami mats, but a few generations ago it switched to its current shokudo [diner] style.

They kindly allowed me into the kitchen so I could observe how they made the popular oyakodon.

The soup stock mixed with other condiments is put into a pan together with domestically raised chicken and onions and then cooked.

Less than 30 seconds after the egg has been poured into the pan, the contents are then slid onto a bowl of hot rice. It happens in the blink of an eye. This timing is the secret to the deliciously soft and fluffy texture of the oyakodon.

The egg and rice blend perfectly with each bite. The flavor of the chicken is gentle yet firm. Mixing the egg yolk in the center first further gives it a rich flavor.

The Kashiwa-nabe [vegetable hot pot] has ginger in it which gives it a fresh taste. This dish also has a minimum of seasoning to allow the full flavor of the chicken and soup to come out.

The taste is out of this world! If you visit Nagahama you should really be sure to visit this shop. Try to come in the evening on a weekday as you are more likely to get a seat then.

If you walk south along the Hokkoku Kaido from Torikita you will come to a shop with an impressive signboard.

This is the Tsuruya Pan Marui Shokupan Senmonten that opened in April 2016. Literally translated, the name of the shop in English would be “Tsuruya Table Bread Round Bread Loaves Specialty Shop”.

This shop sells only round loaves of bread. Once you see them you will never forget their distinctive round shape.

Tsuruya Bread is famous nationally for its “Salad Bread”.

Various types of bread, including vegetable bread and rusks, are arranged and displayed at the front of the store.

These make excellent snacks as well as good souvenirs. With so many delicious items to choose from you may want to buy quite a few.

Heading back in the direction of Kurokabe Square this time we will go to the shopping district.

Here is located a figure museum operated by the world-famous figure-maker Kaiyodo.

Kaiyodo Figure Museum Kurokabe Ryuyukan is the world’s first museum devoted solely to figures. It opened in 2005 to introduce the attractions and production process of figures to everyone.

In particular, you can enjoy thousands of figures ranging from animals and dinosaurs and other creatures to nostalgic heroes, the latest anime characters and Buddhistic statues.

There are many good places to visit in the Nagahama area.The 96CAFE, which is pronounced “Kuro Cafe” in Japanese, and the Kurokabe AMISU are two such places located next to the Kurokabe Glass Shop mentioned earlier. There are good places to take a short rest and look for souvenirs.

This casual cafe has a menu featuring local Shiga dishes and is open at all hours.

Kurokabe AMISU across the street has a large selection of special products and handicrafts from all parts of Shiga Prefecture. The items offered were selected for their fine craftsmanship.

The Nagahama area is easy to get about because everything is close together. This is a place that is ideal for a day-trip because there are so many things to see and do. Visiting the many shops you are certain to feel the history and culture of this famous old town.

Text by:Ishihara Ai