Yamagata Prefecture sits on the Sea of Japan side of Japan's Tohoku region, in the north of the country. Every single city, town, and village in the prefecture has hot springs, making it a true hot spring paradise, and the most famous of them all is Ginzan Onsen in Obanazawa. Wooden inns built from the late Taisho era (1912 to 1926) to the early Showa era (1926 to 1989) still line the streets here, and crowds of visitors from inside and outside the prefecture come to see them.

Ginzan Onsen's greatest charm is its streetscape, which makes you wonder if time itself runs differently here. Wooden ryokan stand along both banks of the Ginzan River, gas lamps light the town at dusk, and snowflake-patterned tiles are set into the stone-paved paths. Everything that catches your eye has a unique beauty unlike modern buildings and cityscapes.

Ginzan Onsen is especially beautiful in winter. On winter nights in particular, the soft glow of the gas lamps shines over the pure white snow, creating a dramatic scene. Many people time their trips just to see the snowy landscape.

The best part is strolling through the atmospheric hot spring town. A photo with the snow-covered streets as your backdrop is a lovely keepsake too. Because the town sits in the mountains, it gets pitch dark around 6 PM, so late afternoon is the best time for photography.

Soaking in a snow-viewing bath is another treat unique to winter in Japan. If you can, stay at an inn with an open-air bath, and enjoy a truly atmospheric moment relaxing in the hot spring while watching the snow fall.

There is one thing to watch out for when visiting Ginzan Onsen in winter: the snow. Ginzan Onsen is known as a heavy snowfall area, with snow starting in early December. Snow depth peaks in January and February, and it stays on the ground until around mid-March. With more than 1 meter of snow, warm clothing and non-slip shoes are a must.

Ginzan Onsen is full of inns popular for their open-air baths with views of the surrounding mountains, as well as inns with charming retro looks. Here are our top picks.

When you think of Ginzan Onsen, you think of Notoya Ryokan. This dignified building is designated a national Registered Tangible Cultural Property. Its exterior is decorated with kote-e, plaster relief artwork, and once you step inside, eye-catching details are everywhere, including the top-floor lookout tower that retains its appearance from about 100 years ago and delicate latticework. From the open-air bath with a view, you can look out over Shirogane Falls (Shirogane no Taki), one of Ginzan Onsen's best viewpoints.

Kosekiya Bekkan is a retro inn in the heart of the hot spring town. You can choose between rooms on the river side and the mountain side. The river side lets you listen to the soothing murmur of the stream, while the mountain side offers a healing view of beautiful nature from the window.

The inn has two indoor baths, both fed by free-flowing source water. Staying guests can also use the baths at its sister inn, Ginzanso, for free, which is a wonderful perk. Ginzanso has an open-air bath overlooking the surrounding mountains, so be sure to stop by when you want a spectacular view.

If you want to enjoy a hot spring without any worries, we recommend Dento no Yado Kozankaku. It has two private baths with free-flowing source water, perfect for a relaxing soak with family or friends.

The building is split into a main wing and a new wing. All rooms in the new wing are Western style, with beds and a toilet with a warm-water bidet seat. The windows offer a sweeping view of the hot spring town, and it is especially romantic at night when the gas lamps are lit.

Fujiya stands out with its stylish exterior of white wood vertical lattices. The building was renovated in 2006 by architect Kengo Kuma, and indirect lighting throughout the interior creates a dreamy atmosphere. It is perfect when you want to experience something out of the ordinary.

There are five baths, and every one of them can be reserved for private use! Only the semi-open-air bath requires a reservation. For the rest, you can bathe whenever you like as long as nobody else is using them. Be sure to visit when you want to feel a little luxurious.

Senkyo no Yado Ginzanso is known for its open-air baths overlooking a lake and mountain ranges. You can enjoy the beauty of the four seasons along with the hot spring: fresh greenery in spring and colorful leaves in autumn. The open-air bath at night, lit by warm-toned lighting, is wonderful too.

All guest rooms are Japanese style. Staying in a room with a semi-open-air bath is sure to make for a special experience. The cuisine, which makes generous use of local ingredients such as Obanazawa beef and seasonal fruit, is also highly rated.

With its nostalgic wooden ryokan, warm gas lamps, and breathtaking blanket of winter snow, Ginzan Onsen offers an unforgettable getaway that feels like stepping back in time. Whether you choose to relax in an open-air bath, admire the snowy views from your room, or indulge in local Yamagata delicacies, staying at one of these historic hot spring inns will make your winter trip truly extraordinary. Rooms fill up quickly during the peak snow season, so be sure to reserve your ryokan well in advance and dress warmly for your trip!