In Japan, you can often find Japanese wine in department stores and supermarkets. Some people have probably even found or tried Japanese wine abroad. Red, white, rosé, and sparkling wines are produced in wineries located throughout the country. The flavors of these wines embody the characteristics of each region.

Ranging from fine wines to inexpensive but delicious brands, there are many kinds to choose from. There is also a range regarding the variety of grapes that are used. This includes Japanese grapes such as Koshu and Muscat Bailey A, all the way to varieties from Europe.

We spoke with Mr. Koki Yoda, who is the president and representative director of Yoda Saketen, a popular Japanese wine shop in Yamanashi Prefecture. Mr. Yoda is also a Japanese Sommelier Association, SSI accredited kikisake-shi.

A kikisake-shi is a sake sommelier who entertains customers with their service and knowledge. With his guidance, we will be introducing some basic information on Japanese wine and our selection of easy-to-acquire, delicious brands.

In the past, the wine produced in Japan mainly used grapes native to the country. This included varieties such as Koshu or a close relative known as Delaware. After 1980, European varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot made their way to Japan, causing the flavor quality of Japanese wine to go up exponentially.

Recently, the amount of wine being shipped out and exported from Japan has grown. Due to its delicate and smooth flavor, Japanese wine has attracted fans from all around the world. Furthermore, since 2018, the Japan Winery Award has been using a star classification to rank wineries and their wines. This award has been quite the topic for discussion among wine-lovers.

Wine is an expressive spirit that reflects the climate of its origin and the culture surrounding it. Countries like France, Italy, Spain, the United States, and Germany take great pride in the provenance of their wine. By strictly regulating production areas and grape variety labeling, wine producers can preserve the uniqueness and value of their wine.

However, in Japan, the label "domestic wine" was used loosely for many years. Some wines under this label were made by fermenting imported grape juice, and others used bulk wine imported in large containers (with a capacity of 150 liters) from overseas. Even imported wine that was merely bottled in Japan was labeled as domestic.

To address this confusion, a law known as the "Labeling Standards for Manufacturing Process and Quality of Wine, etc." was established in October 2015 and implemented in October 2018. This strict new rule, aligned with international regulations, changed the label from "domestic wine" to "Japanese wine."

For a wine to be labeled as Japanese wine, the grapes must be harvested and fermented in Japan. If these criteria are met, the label also includes the harvest year, region, and grape variety. This information is helpful when choosing a bottle of wine and serves as a source of pride and responsibility for wineries, winemakers, and vineyards.

Let's look at the varieties of wine grapes produced in Japan and the main regions where they are cultivated.

Koshu is a white wine grape used for Japanese wine that is becoming highly valued by foreign countries. A DNA test result showed that it’s a hybrid between a European grape variety and Chinese wild grapes. This hybrid is known as vitis vinifera.

Wine made from Koshu grapes has notes of citrus with pleasantly acidic and fruity flavors. Leaving a slightly bitter aftertaste, it is a wine praised for pairing well with Japanese cuisine. Due to the rise in popularity of Japanese cuisine abroad, this Koshu variety is gaining recognition worldwide.

Ryugan is an Eastern-European grape variety that originated in China. It is a white wine grape that has been cultivated around Nagao Prefecture’s Zenkoji Temple. Because of this, the popular variety is also known as Zenkoji grapes. With its light fruitiness and citrus-like acidity, it can be perfectly turned into a dry wine that pairs well with Japanese cuisine.

The Muscat A Bailey was cultivated in 1927 by Zenbei Kawakami, the founder of Iwanohara Vineyard, who is also known as the father of Japanese wine. Kawakami created this variety by hybridizing an American berry with a European grape variety called the Muscat Hamburg. Among all the red wine grapes, it is the most heavily produced variety in Japan.

Winemakers throughout various regions of Japan can experiment with this grape variety due to the wide range of flavors it produces. It can be made into a young, simple, and juicy light wine, or an oak-barrel-aged wine.

When thinking of grape varieties found in Yamagata, you may think of Koshu or Chardonnay for white wine. For red wine, there’s the Muscat Berry A and Cabernet Sauvignon. However, a noteworthy variety is the Yama Sauvignon. Made for red wine, this variety is a hybrid between mountain grapes and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a powerful, full-bodied red wine, distinct with its deep red coloring and earthiness from the mountain grapes.

Yamasachi are red wine grapes specially developed in Ikeda, Hokkaido. Along with Koshu and Muscat Berry A, this typical Japanese variety is OIV (International Organization of Vine and Wine) certified. Because it is resistant to cold and frost, it is easy for winemakers to cultivate, thus reducing the amount of work needed to maintain them. The chilly climate of Hokkaido can be felt through the rustic woodiness, complex tannic flavor, and sharp acidity found in this wine.

The following will present the popular wineries of each region, their wines, and recommended food pairings.

In Hokkaido, the main grape varieties for white wine are Kerner and Niagara. For red wine, Yamasachi and Pinot Noir are cultivated.

Kerner, available at Chitose Winery, is a dry white wine that offers bright, fruitful notes. It pairs well with fresh sashimi assortments or grilled seafood. Tokachi Wine’s Yamasachi is a red wine with the unique bitterness of mountain grapes, complemented by a sharp fruitiness and acidity.

In Hokkaido, jingisukan, a Japanese grilled mutton dish, is very popular. In addition to this, there’s Tokachi’s specialty, the pork bowl. This is an inexplicably delicious dish that tops rice with pork cooked in a soy sauce-based, sweet and spicy sauce.

In the Northeastern regions of Iwate Prefecture and Yamagata Prefecture, white wines such as Koshu and Riesling Lyon can be found. Red wines available include Zweigeltrebe and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Seele Ohasama Zweigeltrebe, from Edel Wine (Iwate), has a subtle and sweet woodiness, notes of fruitiness from blackberries, a powerful tannic flavor, and acidity. This red wine pairs well with meat and cheese dishes.

Takahata Winery (Yamagata) recommends its ‘Hattaki’ Barrique Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon. This red wine has fruity notes of ripe plum. Aged in an oak barrel for 23 months, this full-bodied wine has the attractive quality of lingering on your palate, leaving hints of spice and vanilla. It pairs especially well with hearty dishes such as hamburger steaks and beef stew.

In Niigata Prefecture and Toyama Prefecture in the Hokuriku region, Chardonnay for white wine and Muscat Berry A for red wine are cultivated.

Zenbei Kawakami, known as the father of grapes for Japanese wines, is the creator of Muscat Berry A. At his winery, Iwanohara Winery (Niigata), this red wine is renowned for its superb quality, thanks to the use of organically grown grapes. The wine is characterized by its initial velvety mouthfeel and its charming berry-like aroma and flavor. It pairs perfectly with highly-seasoned dishes such as yakitori covered in a soy sauce-based glaze.

Yamafuji Vineyards and Horizon Winery, founded in 1933, takes great care in producing small quantities of various kinds of wine.

Tochigi Prefecture and Ibaraki Prefecture in the Kanto Region produce Koshu for white wine and Cabernet Sauvignon for red wine. Koshu F.O.S., produced at Coco Farm and Winery (Tochigi), is a rare white wine that, like a red wine, uses the grape skin. With its orange hue, complex fragrance, and bitter, full-bodied flavor, it pairs perfectly with dishes like roasted duck or quail.

Tsukuba Winery, located at the foot of Mount Tsukuba in Ibaraki Prefecture, is known for its unfiltered wine called Tsukuba Primo. With its delicate taste, it pairs well with both Western and Japanese cuisine.

In Yamanashi Prefecture and Nagano Prefecture, located in the Koshin region, native Japanese white wine grapes called Koshu are cultivated. Red wine grapes such as Muscat Berry A and Merlot can also be found. Koshu Kiiroka, produced at Chateau Merican (Yamanashi), is made with Koshu grapes picked just before they’re fully ripe, as this is when they’re the most fragrant. The result is a dry white wine with notes of woodiness. It pairs well with green salad, white fish sashimi, lightly simmered bamboo shoots, wakame seaweed, and butterbur shoot tempura.

Katsunama Winery (Yamanashi) offers the Aruga Branca Brilhante. Made from Koshu grapes, this wine undergoes an in-bottle secondary fermentation process to become a white sparkling wine. This allows you to enjoy the delicate fragrance of Koshu along with its sharp, refreshing flavors.

Katsunama Winery (Yamanashi) offers the Aruga Branca Brilhante. Made from Koshu grapes, it undergoes an in-bottle secondary fermentation process to become a white sparkling wine. This process allows you to enjoy the delicate fragrance of Koshu along with its sharp, refreshing flavors.

Japanese wine is still relatively new to the market. However, thanks to the dedication of vineyards and wineries, its quality continues to improve. Japanese wine pairs well with Western cuisine and beautifully complements the delicate flavors of Japanese dishes. If you ever have the chance, try visiting a winery to breathe in the rich scent of the soil while enjoying a glass of delicious Japanese wine.

Edited and fact-checked by: Mr. Koki Yoda
President and Representative Director of Yoda Saketen
A Japan Sommelier Association, SSI accredited kikisake-shi