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Komyoji Temple's Momiji-sando: Enjoy Fall Colors at Kyoto's Ancient Temple

Komyoji Temple's Momiji-sando: Enjoy Fall Colors at Kyoto's Ancient Temple

Last updated: 13 October 2021

Kyoto's Komyoji Temple is famous for its autumn foliage, known in Japanese as koyo. The beautiful site of Momiji-sando, a stone-lined path leading up to the temple, created from colored leaves on branches and fallen leaves is a must-see.

Here we'll journey to the temple in Nagaokaykyo City, located in the southwest portion of Kyoto Prefecture. It's here that the ancient Tale of the Bamboo Cutter is said to have taken place, and has been filled with natural beauty from ancient times.

Main image: funboxphoto / Shutterstock.com

Table of Contents
  1. Natural Beauty Protected by Faith
  2. Following Legends with the Komyoji Temple Guide
  3. Passing through Corridors Sprawled Throughout the Mountain
  4. Book an unforgettable experience in Kyoto!

Natural Beauty Protected by Faith

Komyoji Temple and its vast temple area is the main temple of the Seizan Jodo Shu Buddhist sect located on the side of Mt. Torigamine. To reach Komyoji, it takes about 20 minutes by bus from JR Kyoto Line Nagaokakyo Station and about 10 minutes by bus from Hankyu Railway Hagaoka-Tenjin Station.

This area is called Aohirdani and is said to be the location where the founder of Jodo Shu Buddhist sect Honen Shonin (Saint) first spread the mantra of Namuamidabutsu (Nianfo) to the people during the late Heian Period to the early Kamakura Period. The natural beauty is protected by deep faith.

▲Monument with the carving “Birthplace of Jodo Sect” at the front gate
▲Monument with the carving “Birthplace of Jodo Sect” at the front gate

To spread the teaching of Honen Shonin, the temple's history, and its architecture, Komyoji has a temple guide service for visitors (reservations are required; not conducted when overcrowded and during Buddhist memorial services).

▲Our temple guide Head Temple Director Ryuko Nitta
▲Our temple guide Head Temple Director Ryuko Nitta

We visited Komyoji Temple in late July when the mountains were filled with green. We started our tour from Somon (main gate).

With a soft tone, Mr. Nitta told us, “It is said that when Honen Shonin was a distressed young monk searching for the way of the Buddha, he asked for a night’s lodging in the village of Aoeki and received warm hospitality. At this time, the villagers requested that ‘if you find a teaching that everyone can be taught equally, please teach it to us first.’ 20 years later, he has returned to this place and kept his promise by teaching the nenbutsu (nianfo).”

For the general course with a guide, you will start at the Somon gate and go up the Omote-sando (main road) to Kannondo, Amidado, Mieido, Shakodo, and then go down Momiji-sando from Yakuimon back to the Somon. It depends on the guide, but it typically takes about 30 minutes to an hour.

Following Legends with the Komyoji Temple Guide

Going through the Somon the path splits. To your left is Momiji-sando famous for the autumn foliage, which you will take on your way back. To path on the right is Nyonin-zaka, the gentle slope of which is easy to climb. The path is packed tightly by small rocks.

▲The Omote-sando to the right is also called Nyonin-zaka. The left is Momiji-sando
▲The Omote-sando to the right is also called Nyonin-zaka. The left is Momiji-sando

Mr. Nitta said, “The rocks in the path have been placed by followers citing the nenbutsu; thanks to this, it is easy to walk.”

At the junction of the two hills, there is a stone monument. Examining it closely, you can see an engraving of a monk riding a horse backward.

▲Stone monument of “Toko Saka Uma” on Omote-sando
▲Stone monument of “Toko Saka Uma” on Omote-sando

This is based on the historical allusion of Kumagai Naozane, famous in The Tale of Heike and the Noh song Atsumori. Komyoji was founded by Honen Shonin in Kenkyu 9 (1198). However, construction efforts were put in after the Genpei War by Kumagai Naozane. He became a disciple of Honen Shonin and changed his name to Horikibo Rensei, and built the Nenbutsu Zanmaiin, which is the predecessor of Komyoji.

It is said that when Rensei Boushi (monk) traveled to the Kanto region for missionary work, he stated, “I cannot face my bottom towards the west where Amida (Amitabha) is,” and so he rode his horse backward. As a former warrior, he had the same amount of faith as his ferocity. Although it could make one think that it was maybe a bit too much.

▲Looking down at Somon from the top of Nyonin-zaka
▲Looking down at Somon from the top of Nyonin-zaka

Even though the slope is gentle, you may be out of breath by the time you get to the top. The temple ground covers the whole mountain, and there are many slopes and stairs, so it will be wise to wear attire and shoes that are good for walking.

▲Koka Shiota’s kuhi (stone slab with haiku carved in)
▲Koka Shiota’s kuhi (stone slab with haiku carved in)

Once you reach the top, on the left, there is a kuhi (stone slab with haiku carved in) by a Koka Shiota, a famous poet during the early Showa period. “Utsushiyo no Rakudo Shizukeshi Hana ni Tori” is a haiku about Komyoji. The haiku explains that the silence in the temple is the same as it was in the past.

▲Behind the statue of Honen Shonin is Mieido
▲Behind the statue of Honen Shonin is Mieido

In front of Mieido, there are various relics left behind. For example, to the right-hand side in front of Mieido is Honen Shonin’s stone coffin surrounded by a stone fence.

▲Honen Shonin’s stone coffin
▲Honen Shonin’s stone coffin

Honen passed away in Kenryaku 2 (1212) and was buried in Higashiyama Otani. With the spread of the nenbutsu, some people were not happy with it and tried to uncover his grave. With this discovery, his disciples secretly moved his remains to the west from Higashiyama to Uzumasa, then to Arashiyama, and then suddenly a mysterious light emitted from the stone coffin and pointed towards Aoeki, his final resting place.

Honen Shonin’s grave is another reason why Komyoji is so important to the Jyodo-shu.

▲Honen Shonin Kesa Kaken no Matsu and to the right is the Kyozo (a storage place for scriptures)
▲Honen Shonin Kesa Kaken no Matsu and to the right is the Kyozo (a storage place for scriptures)

In front of the Kyozo (a storage place for scriptures) is Honen Shonin Kesa Kaken no Matsu, the pine tree where Honen Shonin hung his kesa (kasaya, monk clothing) when he spread his teaching for the first time here. The tree was original in a small valley behind the main mountain, but they split the roots and transferred it here.

▲Mieido to the right after you climb the path
▲Mieido to the right after you climb the path

Previously a statue of Senjukanon (sashasrabhuja, a thousand-armed, thousand-eyed Avalokitesvara) made by Eshin, a monk from the mid-Heian period, was kept in the Mieido. However, since it was designated as an important cultural property, it was moved to Kyoto National Museum. Currently, the Juichi-men (eleven-faced) Senjukanon from Awafuzan Kanonji Temple is kept here.

▲To the right of Mieido is Amidado
▲To the right of Mieido is Amidado

A statue of Amidanyorai (Amitabha) is kept at Amidado. The statue is close to 2 meters tall, and it is said that when Horikibo Rensei became a disciple of Honen Shonin, he carried the statue from Katata’s Ukimido in Lake Biwa in Konoe (currently Saga Prefecture).

▲Interior of the Amidado. The statue of Amidanyorai in the center (pictures are prohibited in the building)
▲Interior of the Amidado. The statue of Amidanyorai in the center (pictures are prohibited in the building)

Passing through Corridors Sprawled Throughout the Mountain

Now it is time to enter the central building of Komyoji Temple, Mieido. Mieido would be the main structure in a normal temple style. Also, Miei means the image of Honen Shonin, and do means hall, so Mieido is where they worship Honen Shonin.

▲Mieido made from Japanese zelkova trees, about 33 square meters.
▲Mieido made from Japanese zelkova trees, about 33 square meters.

From the Onin War, Mieido has burned down multiple times, and the current structure was completed in Horeki 4 (1754). A relic kept here is Hariko no Miei, which was created by Honen Shonin. He made this paper-mâché by soaking letters sent from his mother.

▲The wooden fence to the front is the barrier and the sanctum of the temple represents nirvana (photos are not allowed in the hall)
▲The wooden fence to the front is the barrier and the sanctum of the temple represents nirvana (photos are not allowed in the hall)

The area around the relic is called Kuden and is decorated with beautiful golden sacred lotus and Tengai (canopy).

In the sanctum, the tatami (straw mat) lined up vertically was divided into nine ranks that represent Kuhon Jodo (nine levels of Amitabha’s pure land), and the tatami placed in the outer sanctum represents Rokudo Rinne (endless circle of transmigration in the six posthumous worlds). Every object has a meaning and represents the reasons of this world and nirvana.

Mr. Nitta said, “If you visit Mieido, please calm your mind and soul and imagine nirvana the way it is explained in the sutras.” It is amazing how the way things look changes when you learn the meaning of them.

▲Omamori (charms) (500 yen each) offered at Mieido, and bookmarks made from Rakusei bamboo (300 yen each)
▲Omamori (charms) (500 yen each) offered at Mieido, and bookmarks made from Rakusei bamboo (300 yen each)

Also, the “Heart Mark” in Mieido has become quite popular over SNS recently. The grafting on the handrail has become the shape of a heart. They say that if you can find it, it might bring you a romantic fortune. Have fun looking for it.

▲The heart mark in Mieido that is said to bring you romantic fortune
▲The heart mark in Mieido that is said to bring you romantic fortune

Travel through the long corridor with your shoes in hand from Mieido.

▲The long corridor from Mieido. To the back right behind Mieido is the mausoleum where Honen Shonin rests
▲The long corridor from Mieido. To the back right behind Mieido is the mausoleum where Honen Shonin rests

The corridor behind Mieido goes along down the mountain slopes in steps. Once you reach the bottom, you will see Shakado to the front. In front of the deep eaves is the Japanese rock garden, Shingyo-tei, and past that is the Chokushi-mon gate.

▲Chakushi-mon and Shingyo-tei in front of Shakado
▲Chakushi-mon and Shingyo-tei in front of Shakado

Past Shakado is the Ko-shoin (small study) and Dai-shoin (large study), and leads to the exit. From here you will go down the long-awaited Momiji-sando that leads back to Somon.

▲During the autumn foliage season, the stone path turns crimson on the Momiji-sando
▲During the autumn foliage season, the stone path turns crimson on the Momiji-sando

In full autumn, Kyoto Momiji-sando becomes a tunnel of fall colors, going through you will see vibrant red and yellow in every direction. Depending on the light shining through the leaves the layering effect will give the impression as if you are looking through a kaleidoscope.

▲Row of colored trees seen beyond Yakuimon
▲Row of colored trees seen beyond Yakuimon

Not only Momiji-sando but the whole area starts to color, and every year from early November to early December, there are 50,000 visitors during the special foliage season.

The reason you can enjoy the beautiful foliage of autumn is that this place of faith and training has been carefully preserved. When you visit, please keep in mind to remain calm and follow the rules.

▲The corridors through the temple grounds covered by colored leaves.
▲The corridors through the temple grounds covered by colored leaves.

Some maple trees are over 150 years old. Of course, the foliage season is great; however, we still recommend when the mountain is covered in green maple leaves.

▲A green and unique Momiji-sando
▲A green and unique Momiji-sando

The maple tunnel path is like you are in another world and makes you want to take pictures. An option is to avoid the busy season, and have a leisurely tour around the temple with a guide. This place of faith surrounded by nature is a perfect place to relax your mind and soul.

  • Seizan Jodo Shu Sohonzan Komyoji
    西山浄土宗 総本山 光明寺
    • Address 26-1 Aosaijonai, Nagaokakyo City, Kyoto Prefecture
    • Phone Number 075-955-0002
    • ・Hours: 9:00AM – 4:00PM (until 4:30PM during autumn foliage season)
      ・Fee: General 500 yen (only during autumn foliage season, free during other periods)
      ・Closed: Open daily
      *There is no parking at Komyoji or nearby, make sure to use public transportation.

*Pictures of the autumn foliage were taken before 2017

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*This information is from the time of this article's publication.
*Prices and options mentioned are subject to change.
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