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Karuizawa Winter Story: Enjoy A Relaxed Weekend Escape from Tokyo

Karuizawa Winter Story: Enjoy A Relaxed Weekend Escape from Tokyo

  • Written by: Guest Contributor
Last updated: 13 January 2026

From late November, Karuizawa eases into winter with WHITE LOVE, a seasonal illumination event that instantly changes the mood of the town. Step out of the station and you are welcomed by softly glowing lights that line the streets, creating a gentle, Christmas-like atmosphere that feels calm rather than crowded.

Winter here is not about hibernation. Karuizawa takes on a refined, quietly romantic character, with crisp air, elegant scenery, and just enough activity to keep things lively. With guidance from the Karuizawa Tourism Association, this 2-day, 1-night itinerary is designed for travelers who want a simple, unrushed winter getaway. It fits easily into a Tokyo trip and shows how Karuizawa’s winter charm is best enjoyed at a relaxed pace.

Getting to Karuizawa

For transportation, we recommend renting a car from Haneda Airport and taking the Kan-Etsu Expressway to the Jōshin-etsu Expressway, exiting at Usui Karuizawa IC. This route takes approximately 2 hours to reach Karuizawa.

You can book your car rental online in advance here. Upon arrival at Haneda Airport's international arrivals area on the first floor, go to the middle counter to complete the paperwork. Make sure to have your international driver's permit and your passport.

Alternatively, you can take the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Karuizawa, which only takes 70 minutes.

Shiraito Falls: Silky Threads of Water Pouring from a 70-Meter-Wide Cliff

Shiraito Falls: Silky Threads of Water Pouring from a 70-Meter-Wide Cliff

Arriving in Karuizawa, our first stop is Shiraito Falls, located just north of Old Karuizawa. From the parking area, a gentle 5-minute walk leads past the softly flowing Chikuma River, where the falls gradually come into view at its source.

Surrounded by trees that change character with the seasons, Shiraito Falls spills from a 70-meter-wide rock face in countless silky streams, resembling fine strands of hair. Unlike powerful river waterfalls, its delicate flow creates a calm, refined atmosphere that feels quietly soothing.

According to staff from the Karuizawa Tourism Association, the falls never freeze, even in the depths of winter. Fed by underground water from Mount Asama, geothermal heat keeps the water at around 11.8°C, allowing it to flow year-round into the Chikuma River.

Winter is considered the most beautiful season, when the warmer water meets cold air and a soft mist rises over the surface. Visitors lucky enough to catch this moment are rewarded with one of Karuizawa’s most atmospheric winter scenes.

  • Shiraito Waterfall
    白糸の滝
    • Address Nagakura, Karuizawa, Kitasaku District, Nagano 389-0111
    • ・Admission: Free
      ・Hours: Open at all times
      ・Closed: None

Old Mikasa Hotel: A Glimpse into Karuizawa’s Elegant Past and Vintage Charm

Old Mikasa Hotel: A Glimpse into Karuizawa’s Elegant Past and Vintage Charm

A short drive south along Mikasa-dori from Shiraito Falls brings you to Old Mikasa Hotel, a Western-style wooden hotel designed and supervised by Japanese architects in the late Meiji period. At the height of its popularity, it was a prestigious retreat for political and business elites visiting Karuizawa, operating as a luxury hotel until it closed in 1970.

In May 1980, the building was designated a National Important Cultural Property, and today it stands as one of Karuizawa’s key historic landmarks. Visitors can admire the exterior or step inside to explore the preserved interiors, offering a vivid glimpse into the town’s elegant past and refined vintage atmosphere.

  • Historic Mikasa Hotel
    旧三笠ホテル
    • Address 1339-342, Karuizawa, Karuizawa-machi Kitasaku-gun, Nagano, 389-0102, Japan
    • ・Admission: Adults 1,000 yen, students 500 yen
      ・Hours: 9 AM to 5 PM (last entry at 4:30 PM)
      ・Closed: Wednesdays, December 28 to January 3

St. Paul’s Catholic Church: Karuizawa’s Iconic Landmark Church

St. Paul’s Catholic Church: Karuizawa’s Iconic Landmark Church

Continuing south along Mikasa-dori, you will arrive at St. Paul’s Catholic Church. In 1935, as the number of foreign villas in Karuizawa exceeded 300 and the foreign population grew to more than 1,300 residents, British missionary Father L. Ward established the church as a spiritual and community center for the area’s international residents.

Today, St. Paul’s Catholic Church remains one of Karuizawa’s most recognizable churches. On weekends, visitors can often see worship services and wedding ceremonies taking place, while the steep triangular roof leaves a lasting visual impression against the surrounding greenery.

  • St. Paul's Catholic Church
    軽井沢聖パウロカトリック教会
    • Address 179, Karuizawa, Karuizawa-machi Kitasaku-gun, Nagano, 389-0102, Japan
    • ・Admission: Free
      ・Hours: 9 AM to 4 PM (winter hours until sunset; entry not permitted during services or ceremonies)
      ・Closed: Open daily

Usui Pass Observatory: Sweeping Views of Mt. Asama, Yatsugatake, and Surrounding Peaks

Usui Pass Observatory: Sweeping Views of Mt. Asama, Yatsugatake, and Surrounding Peaks

Continuing north by car from Old Karuizawa’s shopping street, you will soon arrive at Usui Pass Observatory. From here, one side opens onto the mountains of Gunma Prefecture, while the other looks out over the rugged peaks of Nagano, offering wide, dramatic views in every direction.

From the lookout, we took in the striking silhouettes of the Southern Alps, the Yatsugatake range, and Mt. Asama. According to staff from the Karuizawa Tourism Association, once Mt. Asama receives its third snowfall, snow typically begins falling across the Karuizawa area as well.

Just days before our visit, Mt. Asama had already seen its fourth snowfall, bringing Karuizawa its first snow of the season. Along roads closer to the mountains, patches of snow were already visible, marking the quiet but unmistakable start of Karuizawa’s winter story.

  • Usui Pass Observatory
    碓氷峠見晴台
    • Address Togemachi, Karuizawa-machi Kitasaku-gun, Nagano, 389-0101, Japan
    • ・Admission: Free
      ・Hours: Open at all times
      ・Closed: None

Kumano Kotai Shrine: A Rare Shrine Straddling the Nagano–Gunma Border

Kumano Kotai Shrine: A Rare Shrine Straddling the Nagano–Gunma Border

Located beside Usui Pass Lookout at the summit of Usui Pass, Kumano Kotai Shrine is unlike most shrines in Japan. Because it sits directly on the border between Nagano and Gunma prefectures, it has two official names. The left side, in Nagano, is called Kumano Kotai Shrine, while the right side, in Gunma, is known as Kumano Shrine.

Even the main sanctuary reflects this unique setup, with two separate offertory boxes for worshippers. Each side also has its own office handling prayers, charms, and goshuin stamps, making it a fascinating example of how geography shapes religious practice.

Within the grounds stands the sacred Shinano Tree, believed to be around 1,000 years old. Walking clockwise around this revered tree is said to bring good fortune and blessings for relationships, making the shrine especially popular with visitors seeking love and meaningful connections.

  • Kumano Kotai Shrine
    熊野皇大神社
    • Address 1, Togemachi, Karuizawa-machi Kitasaku-gun, Nagano, 389-0101, Japan
    • ・Admission: Free
      ・Hours: Open at all times
      ・Closed: None

Shigenoya: Home of the Legendary Chikara Mochi Sweets

Shigenoya: Home of the Legendary Chikara Mochi Sweets

Directly across from Kumano Kotai Shrine, right on the border between Nagano and Gunma prefectures, sits Shigenoya, a historic teahouse loved by locals in Karuizawa. With a history spanning over 300 years, it serves traditional Japanese sweets and soba noodles to travelers passing through Usui Pass.

The shop’s signature specialty is Chikara Mochi, a classic delicacy once famous along the Nakasendo route at Usui Pass and widely considered a standout among mochi sweets. After visiting several of Karuizawa’s nearby landmarks, it is an ideal place to pause for tea and enjoy a taste of traditional wagashi. We ordered the three most representative flavors, sweet red bean paste, walnut, and soy sauce with grated daikon, priced at 540 yen per serving.

  • Shigenoya
    しげの屋
    • Address 2, Togemachi, Karuizawa-machi Kitasaku-gun, Nagano, 389-0101, Japan
    • ・Hours: 10 AM to 3:30 PM
      ・Closed: Irregular holidays, closed during winter season

Shaw Memorial Church: Birthplace of Karuizawa as a Summer Resort

Shaw Memorial Church: Birthplace of Karuizawa as a Summer Resort

Driving back along the same route toward the entrance of Old Karuizawa’s shopping street, you will soon come across Shaw Memorial Church. Built in 1895 by Canadian missionary Alexander Croft Shaw, often called the father of Karuizawa’s development, this was the town’s very first church.

Nearby stands Shaw’s former residence, a villa constructed in 1888 and considered Karuizawa’s first private villa. Now fully restored, its interior displays historical photographs that offer insight into how early foreign residents spent their summers here. As Shaw’s choice of Karuizawa as a summer retreat inspired many others to follow, the area is now known as the birthplace of Karuizawa as a summer resort. Strolling among the surrounding villas, you can still sense the quiet elegance and relaxed atmosphere that defined Karuizawa’s early days.

  • Shaw Memorial Church
    軽井沢ショー記念礼拝堂
    • Address 57-1, Karuizawa, Karuizawa-machi Kitasaku-gun, Nagano, 389-0102, Japan
    • ・Admission: Free
      ・Hours: 9 AM to 5 PM (winter hours until 4 PM)
      ・Closed: Irregular closures

Old Karuizawa Ginza Street: A Lively Street with Classic, Old-World Charm

Old Karuizawa Ginza Street: A Lively Street with Classic, Old-World Charm

Strolling south from Shaw Memorial Church leads you naturally onto Old Karuizawa Ginza Street, a shopping avenue known for its lively yet nostalgic atmosphere. The street originally developed to meet the needs of foreign residents living in Karuizawa, with shops selling Western-style sausages, bread, and jams.

Today, this European-flavored street is lined with cafés, pastry shops, bakeries, as well as stores selling crafts and unique souvenirs, making it easy to lose track of time while browsing. Highlights include the locally famous Sawaya, a must-buy stop for jam lovers, and a photo studio where visitors can dress in vintage outfits for memorable snapshots. Even the Karuizawa Tourist Information Center features a charming European-style exterior, adding to the street’s distinctive character.

A must-buy souvenir in Karuizawa, Sawaya has a flagship store right on Old Karuizawa Ginza Street. Its jams trace their roots back to recipes brought by foreign missionaries, a tradition that has been carefully preserved to this day.

Made with fresh seasonal fruit and no added chemical preservatives, Sawaya’s jams are known for their pure, natural flavor. Once opened, they should be refrigerated and enjoyed within two weeks. The most popular item is the strawberry jam, made using a whole fresh strawberry per jar, priced at 918 yen for the small size pictured.

Another highlight is the matcha milk jam, available only at the flagship store. Rich and aromatic, it leaves a strong impression from the first bite and costs 886 yen per jar. The shop also serves piroshki, a nostalgic savory pastry introduced by Russians and sold since Sawaya’s founding in 1950, making it well worth trying alongside your jam purchase.

  • SAWAYA
    沢屋SAWAYA
    • Address 746-1, Karuizawa, Karuizawa-machi Kitasaku-gun, Nagano, 389-0102, Japan
    • ・Hours: 10 AM to 4 PM (extended hours in summer)
      ・Closed: None, though there is a winter closure period that varies each year. Please check the official website in advance.

Rogtei: A Satisfying Wagyu Dinner to End the Day

Rogtei: A Satisfying Wagyu Dinner to End the Day

After browsing the many shops along Old Karuizawa Ginza Street, evening falls and it is time for a proper meal. A high-quality wagyu dinner is the perfect choice, and Rogtei is a well-regarded local yakiniku restaurant just a 4-minute walk from Naka-Karuizawa Station. The restaurant also offers free parking, making it convenient for drivers.

One of Rogtei’s highlights is that you can enjoy both Japanese-style yakiniku and shabu-shabu at the same table. We ordered the premium wagyu shabu-shabu set, which includes top-grade tenderloin, a vegetable platter, sashimi, rice or udon, and an all-you-can-eat salad bar, priced at 7,700 yen per person. We also shared the deluxe wagyu assortment for two, featuring filet, sirloin, short ribs, seafood, assorted vegetables, and the salad bar, at 15,400 yen.

The beautiful marbling of the wagyu says it all. Rich in flavor yet meltingly tender, it is the kind of meal that fully satisfies both appetite and travel-weary bodies, a fitting finale to a day in Karuizawa.

  • Rogutei
    ろぐ亭 Rogtei
    • Address 3148-1, Nagakura, Karuizawa-machi Kitasaku-gun, Nagano, 389-0111, Japan
    • ・Hours: Lunch 11 AM to 1 PM; Dinner 5 PM to 8:30 PM
      ・Closed: Tuesdays and Wednesdays; irregular winter closures

DELICIA: Late-Night Souvenir Shopping and Snacks

DELICIA: Late-Night Souvenir Shopping and Snacks

After dinner, there is still time to enjoy Karuizawa before turning in for the night. In addition to a leisurely drive to admire the winter festival illuminations around town, stopping by a local supermarket is a great way to pick up souvenirs and late-night snacks to take home.

DELICIA is open until 11 PM, making it ideal for a relaxed evening shopping run. Inside, you will find many items that are rarely seen in ordinary Tokyo supermarkets. Even Mariage Frères, the classic French tea brand usually found in department stores or specialty shops, is available here in a wide range of flavors.

The shelves are also stocked with locally roasted Karuizawa coffee, handmade jams, and a wide selection of products made with regional ingredients. Highlights include Shinshu fruit juices, local honey, vegetables and fruit grown in the fertile fields of Azumino, and regional sake. One visit here is often enough to take care of both tonight’s snacks and thoughtful souvenirs for the trip home.

  • DELICIA Karuizawa
    デリシア軽井沢店
    • Address 1323-1002, Karuizawa, Karuizawa-machi Kitasaku-gun, Nagano, 389-0102, Japan
    • ・Hours: 9 AM to 10 PM
      ・Closed: None

Karuizawa Prince Hotel East: A Restful Night in the East Wing

Karuizawa Prince Hotel East: A Restful Night in the East Wing

For the night, we stayed at the East Wing of Karuizawa Prince Hotel, a large-scale resort complex conveniently located near Karuizawa Station. The resort offers a wide range of facilities, including a golf course, shopping center, restaurants, spa, and ski area, making it a destination in itself.

The East Wing, where we stayed, is especially close to the ski slopes and was designed around the NEO FOREST concept. From the lobby lounge to the welcome spaces on each floor, the interiors are thoughtfully crafted to evoke the feeling of being surrounded by forest, creating a calm and immersive atmosphere.

Guests can choose from Western-style deluxe rooms or forest cottages that are ideal for families. The cottages are scattered among the trees, and stepping outside reveals views of the ski area, something children in particular will love. You can stroll between the cottages and the main hotel building, or call the front desk for a shuttle ride that takes just a few minutes. Room rates vary by season, so be sure to check the official website or major booking platforms for details.

  • Karuizawa Prince Hotel East
    軽井沢プリンスホテル イースト
    • Address 1016-75 Karuizawa, Karuizawa-machi, Kitasaku-gun, Nagano View Map
    • Original source: Rakuten Travel

    Vacancy search, reservation

    Check with our partner site as the latest rates, rate details, and guest room requirements may vary.

Karuizawa Prince Hotel Ski Resort: Enjoy Karuizawa’s Most Popular Winter Activity

Karuizawa Prince Hotel Ski Resort: Enjoy Karuizawa’s Most Popular Winter Activity

Breakfast is served in the bright first-floor restaurant of the hotel, where guests can choose between a Western-style or Japanese set meal. The fresh local vegetable salad, paired with the hotel’s house-made dressing, is light and refreshing, a perfect start to the day before heading straight out to the slopes.

Karuizawa Prince Hotel Ski Resort is equipped with snowmaking machines, ensuring stable skiing conditions throughout the season. With a variety of courses ranging from gentle slopes to more challenging runs, it is designed so that both children and adults can enjoy skiing together.

The winter ski season runs from November 1, 2025 to March 31, 2026. During the early season from November 1 to December 19, operating hours are 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM. For the rest of the season, the resort operates from 8 AM to 5 PM.

Lift tickets are free for children aged 12 and under, and hotel guests can purchase tickets at discounted rates. During the early season, a full-day pass costs 8,000 yen, while an afternoon pass costs 7,000 yen. In the regular season, full-day passes are 10,000 yen and afternoon passes are 9,000 yen. For details on ski equipment rental and ski lessons, please check the official website here:
Karuizawa Prince Hotel Ski Resort Official Website

Outside of winter, the resort also offers golf courses and a wide range of spa programs, making it an appealing destination year-round.

Chouette: A Local Favorite for a Relaxed French Lunch

Chouette: A Local Favorite for a Relaxed French Lunch

After a full morning on the ski slopes, a satisfying lunch is a must. Chouette is a French countryside–style restaurant located about a 12-minute walk from the north exit of Karuizawa Station. With the chef’s six years of experience in France and more than 16 years serving the local community, it is often mentioned when locals are asked to recommend a reliable Western-style restaurant.

The lunch course is generous and well-balanced, starting with a snow crab pie appetizer, followed by burdock root potage. For the main dish, you can choose one of three options: pan-seared lamb, fresh fish from Tsukiji, or beef stewed in red wine. Dessert, coffee, and house-baked bread complete the set, all for 3,900 yen, making it a filling and memorable meal.

  • Chouette
    Chouette
    • Address Tounosawahara 1151-14, Karuizawa-machi Kitasaku-gun, Nagano, 389-0100, Japan
    • ・Hours: Lunch 11 AM to 3 PM; Dinner 5:30 PM to 10 PM
      ・Closed: Thursdays (open daily during Golden Week and August)

Hiroshi Senju Museum Karuizawa: Where Nature and Art Flow Together

Hiroshi Senju Museum Karuizawa: Where Nature and Art Flow Together
(Image courtesy of Hiroshi Senju Museum Karuizawa)
(Image courtesy of Hiroshi Senju Museum Karuizawa)

The Hiroshi Senju Museum Karuizawa showcases works by internationally acclaimed Japanese painter Hiroshi Senju. Each piece carries a distinct artistic voice and worldview, drawing viewers in with a quiet yet powerful emotional pull. The building itself is also a work of art, designed by renowned architect Ryue Nishizawa, with gently curving glass walls that shift in appearance as light changes throughout the day.

Inside, the museum feels like a walk through a forest. The gently sloping floors follow the natural terrain, allowing art, architecture, seasonal plants, and visitors’ movement to blend into a single experience. One highlight is the Nightfall exhibition room, softly illuminated in blue light, which creates an especially immersive atmosphere.

The museum complex also includes the Colored Leaves Garden, a museum shop, a café, and a bakery, making it a rewarding place to linger. With its refined design and serene mood, it is one of Karuizawa’s most distinctive cultural spots.

  • Hiroshi Senju Museum Karuizawa
    軽井沢千住博物館
    • Address 815, Nagakura, Karuizawa-machi Kitasaku-gun, Nagano, 389-0111, Japan
    • ・Admission: Adults 1,500 yen; students 1,000 yen; junior high school age and under, and visitors with disabilities free
      ・Hours: 9:30 AM to 5 PM
      ・Closed: Tuesdays (open on national holidays); open daily July to September; closed from December 26 to late February

Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza: Karuizawa’s Ultimate Shopping Paradise

Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza: Karuizawa’s Ultimate Shopping Paradise

The final stop of the trip has to be Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza, located right outside the south exit of Karuizawa Station. Sprawling across a vast area, it is one of Japan’s largest outlet malls, offering everything from international brands to local Karuizawa specialties. With so much to see, time can easily slip away before you realize it.

Next to the shopping area is a large food court complex featuring a wide variety of cuisines. When hunger strikes during your shopping spree, it is the perfect place to take a break and enjoy a casual meal. Wrapping up dinner here before heading back for more shopping makes a relaxed and satisfying finale to the journey, putting the perfect finishing touch on a Karuizawa getaway.

  • Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza
    軽井沢・プリンスショッピングプラザ
    • Address Karuizawa, Karuizawa-machi Kitasaku-gun, Nagano, 389-0102, Japan
    • ・Hours: Generally 10 AM to 7 PM; extended to 9 PM on select holidays and from July to September. Hours vary by month, so please check the official website in advance
      ・Closed: Irregular closures

Does this 2-day, 1-night winter itinerary in Karuizawa have you feeling inspired? Come and experience Karuizawa’s winter story for yourself, and make it a journey where you become part of the magic.

Written by Ms. Otsuka
  • Ms. Otsuka is a Tokyo-based mother raising two energetic children while navigating life between Taiwan and Japan. As a full-time homemaker, she continues to explore the balance between two cultures and her own sense of place. In addition to writing for several media outlets, she occasionally shares recipes online and posts snapshots of everyday life in Tokyo on her Facebook page.
*This information is from the time of this article's publication.
*Prices and options mentioned are subject to change.
*Unless stated otherwise, all prices include tax.

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