HOME Tokyo and Surroundings Nagano Nagano Suburbs Wake Up to the Japanese Alps! A First-Time Journey Through Azumino’s Views, Flavors & Friendly Encounters
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Wake Up to the Japanese Alps! A First-Time Journey Through Azumino’s Views, Flavors & Friendly Encounters

Date published: 21 August 2023

Nestled in the heart of Nagano and embraced by 3,000-meter peaks, Azumino offers a sensory-rich journey through vast rice fields, stunning views of the Northern Alps, Japan’s largest wasabi farm, and fresh, locally rooted cuisine. With easy access from the Kanto and Chukyo regions, this area is filled with one-of-a-kind sights, flavors, and first-time experiences—including warm connections with the people who call it home.

Azumino is also known as “the town that makes you love mornings.” Early risers will discover the city at its most magical, setting the tone for a deeper, more memorable trip. So get ready to meet a new side of yourself—and capture unforgettable moments along the way.

(6 AM) A 360° Panorama You’ll Never Forget — Soar Over Azumino at Sunrise in a Hot Air Balloon

One of Azumino’s most unforgettable early morning experiences is a hot air balloon ride through its crisp, clear skies and gentle winds. Especially recommended in winter, the "free flight" experience—rising freely between 500 and 1,000 meters—is a rare adventure only possible in select areas with stable weather and vast open land.

Azumino is one of the few places in Japan where this is possible. You'll take off with the seasoned team at Azumino Kisen, led by founder Tsuyoshi Miyahara, who brings over 30 years of piloting experience. It’s the perfect way to make a once-in-a-lifetime memory before the rest of the world wakes up.

▲Experience the feeling of flying like a bird during a 40–60 minute hot air balloon “free flight.”
▲Experience the feeling of flying like a bird during a 40–60 minute hot air balloon “free flight.”

Meeting time is 6 AM at a spacious riverbed launch site. As the soft morning sky shifts into a glowing gradient, watching the balloon being prepped for takeoff only heightens the excitement.

▲Hot air balloons rise by harnessing the temperature difference between the cold winter air and the heat from the burner.
▲Hot air balloons rise by harnessing the temperature difference between the cold winter air and the heat from the burner.

After about an hour of preparation, it’s time to board the basket gondola. Worried about the cold? Motion sickness? Fear of heights? Taking photos? No need! You’ll gently lift off with a soft whoosh, barely noticing you’ve left the ground. Surprisingly stable and even warmer than expected thanks to the burner’s flame, the experience is peaceful—and the views are far more breathtaking than you could have imagined.

▲The gentle floating sensation and surreal scenery make it feel like you’ve stepped into another world.
▲The gentle floating sensation and surreal scenery make it feel like you’ve stepped into another world.

The thrill of flying enhances the view—mountains that look beautiful from the ground become absolutely awe-inspiring from above.

Snow-capped peaks of the Northern Alps rise just ahead, while below, Azumino’s sunlit patchwork of fields stretches out in gold. On clear winter mornings, you may also spot Yatsugatake and the Southern Alps in the distance. To the east, a sea of clouds flows along the Chikuma River gorge, with the dramatic ridgelines of the Hokushin Gogaku mountains beyond.

Depending on conditions, you might witness natural wonders like a full sea of clouds, the Brocken spectre (a rainbow-like halo around your shadow), or Morgenrot—a glowing red tint that washes over the mountains at dawn. No two flights are ever the same, making each sunrise view a once-in-a-lifetime moment.

▲Because the balloon moves with the wind, you barely feel any breeze during the flight. With no engine noise, it’s easy to chat with your companions while sharing this extraordinary experience.
▲Because the balloon moves with the wind, you barely feel any breeze during the flight. With no engine noise, it’s easy to chat with your companions while sharing this extraordinary experience.

Hot air balloons have no steering wheel—pilots read the wind by watching the direction of bird flight or rising smoke from chimneys. This connection with nature is part of the adventure, and flying near the towering Northern Alps in Azumino requires advanced piloting skills. The precision of the landing, guided smoothly to a pinpoint spot, is truly impressive.

From start to finish, it’s a series of first-time thrills. The one-hour flight feels both long and fleeting—an unforgettable dream in motion.

▲Soar above the wide basin of Azumino and take in its unique landscape from the sky. With rivers like the Takase and Sai weaving through the scenery, you’ll truly feel how water-rich this region is.
▲Soar above the wide basin of Azumino and take in its unique landscape from the sky. With rivers like the Takase and Sai weaving through the scenery, you’ll truly feel how water-rich this region is.

While the landing spot changes each flight, there’s no need to worry—ground staff follow by car and meet you at the end. Watching their seamless teamwork during the post-flight wrap-up gives you a deeper appreciation for how hot air balloons work, and leaves you with a strong sense of camaraderie.

▲End the journey with a group photo and receive a flight certificate—a perfect keepsake of your unforgettable ride.
▲End the journey with a group photo and receive a flight certificate—a perfect keepsake of your unforgettable ride.

Many people choose this free flight experience to celebrate special occasions like birthdays, weddings, graduations, retirements, or even proposals. Thanks to its easy access from major cities and unbeatable photo opportunities, it’s also becoming a hit among travelers in their 20s.

This one-of-a-kind experience—something only those who’ve flown can truly understand—is sure to become a lifelong memory. While there’s about a 30% chance of cancellation due to weather, March tends to offer stable conditions for successful flights.

Since the flight takes place early in the morning, you’ll still have a full day to enjoy the rest of your trip. In other seasons, you can also try the “tethered flight” option, where the balloon is safely secured to the ground—no reservation required. Check the official website for dates and locations!

  • Azumino Kisen
    安曇野气船
    • Address 8207-2 Hotaka, Azumino City, Nagano Prefecture
    • Phone Number 0263-87-9828
    • ・Admission: Azumino Hot Air Balloon Free Flight 28,000 yen (tax included); Private Flight (2–8 people) from 200,000 yen (tax included);
      Tethered Flight – Ages 15 and up: 2,200 yen (tax included), Ages 3–14: 1,400 yen (tax included)

(8:30 AM) Savor a Sensory-Filled Morning at “L’ATELIER DES SENS” with Local Flavors

Ride the wave of excitement from your hot air balloon adventure straight into a flavorful morning at L’ATELIER DES SENS, just a 3-minute drive from the launch site. Known for its delicious use of Azumino’s local vegetables, this cozy spot is a favorite among locals and visitors alike.

The name L’ATELIER DES SENS means “the workshop of the senses” in French—a fitting title for a restaurant that celebrates fresh, seasonal ingredients with refined yet approachable French-style cuisine. It’s a morning meal that delights every sense.

▲True to its concept of “engaging the senses and enjoying Azumino’s rich nature and food,” the restaurant offers sweeping views of the Northern Alps right from the property.
▲True to its concept of “engaging the senses and enjoying Azumino’s rich nature and food,” the restaurant offers sweeping views of the Northern Alps right from the property.

The signature morning set features a generous salad plate topped with fresh local vegetables, house-made chicken ham, and farm-fresh scrambled eggs. A classic French vinaigrette brings out the natural sweetness of the greens—turning vegetables into the star of the meal.

▲“Morning Set” with a basket of fresh-baked bread: 1,480 yen (toast set: 1,200 yen, both tax included).
▲“Morning Set” with a basket of fresh-baked bread: 1,480 yen (toast set: 1,200 yen, both tax included).

Choose from house-roasted coffee, Azumino milk, or orange juice. In the spirit of a leisurely, elegant morning, coffee refills are free—a rare treat in Japan.

The spacious dining area has a relaxed, welcoming vibe, making it popular with solo diners and regulars alike. Many visitors are surprised by the generous salad portions and affordable prices, while the steady stream of local patrons speaks volumes about the quality of the ingredients and the care in every dish.

▲The bright, open space is equipped with Wi-Fi, making it ideal for coworking or workcations. There’s also a pet-friendly terrace outside where you can dine with your furry companion.
▲The bright, open space is equipped with Wi-Fi, making it ideal for coworking or workcations. There’s also a pet-friendly terrace outside where you can dine with your furry companion.

Owner-chef Fumiki Adachi, born and raised in Azumino, honed his culinary skills at prestigious French restaurants and wine bars in Tokyo, as well as in official residences in the U.S. and France, serving discerning diplomats and guests. In 2008, he was honored with the Japanese Foreign Minister’s Award as an “Outstanding Official Residence Chef.”

After returning to his hometown, he opened this restaurant with the goal of offering approachable French cuisine rooted in local, seasonal ingredients. In 2014, he relocated to the current site, which also houses the brewery for Hotaka Beer, a craft beer made with locally grown Azumino hops. Today, in addition to running the restaurant, he studies at graduate school and researches the health benefits of Azumino’s famed wasabi—showing a deep and ongoing commitment to the region’s food culture.

▲With refined skill, a genuine passion for food, and a warm personality, Chef Adachi is beloved by local producers and the community alike.
▲With refined skill, a genuine passion for food, and a warm personality, Chef Adachi is beloved by local producers and the community alike.

He created the morning menu inspired by Azumino’s serene morning landscapes and the city’s motto, “a town that makes you love mornings.”

“I hope people can enjoy a rich, unhurried start to their day in this space,” he says. As you savor your breakfast, you’ll feel his sentiment in every bite—making for a peaceful, heartwarming morning in Azumino.

▲Near the entrance, the shop corner offers house-roasted coffee and premium treats like Leonidas, the renowned Belgian chocolate brand favored by the royal family.
▲Near the entrance, the shop corner offers house-roasted coffee and premium treats like Leonidas, the renowned Belgian chocolate brand favored by the royal family.
  • L’ATELIER DES SENS
    L’ATELIER DES SENS(ラトリエ・デ・サンス)
    • Address Inside Hotaka Brewery Twin Oaks, 2845-7 Kita-Hotaka, Hotaka, Azumino City, Nagano Prefecture
    • Phone Number 0263-88-2757
    • ・Hours: Wednesday–Friday 10 AM–6 PM; Saturday, Sunday & Holidays 8 AM–6 PM
      ・Closed: Monday & Tuesday (Open if a public holiday)

(10:00 AM) Discover Art and Architectural Beauty at Azumino’s Icon—The Rokuzan Art Museum

Next, it’s time to explore the artistic soul of Azumino. Just a 7-minute drive from L’ATELIER DES SENS and close to JR Hotaka Station on the Oito Line, the Rokuzan Art Museum is a must-visit cultural landmark.

The museum honors the legacy of Moriye Ogihara (artist name: Rokuzan), a brilliant sculptor from Azumino who played a pioneering role in modern Japanese sculpture during the Meiji era. His passionate works and personal artifacts are on display in a setting that’s as visually striking as the art itself.

▲The red-brick Rokuzankan, designed in the style of a church, reflects Rokuzan’s Christian faith. Created by the unique architect Kenji Imai—known for introducing Gaudí to Japan—it’s also a favorite photo spot.
▲The red-brick Rokuzankan, designed in the style of a church, reflects Rokuzan’s Christian faith. Created by the unique architect Kenji Imai—known for introducing Gaudí to Japan—it’s also a favorite photo spot.

Inside, you’ll find a collection of masterpieces by Rokuzan, who studied art in New York and Paris and created a lasting legacy in his short 30-year life. Though compact, the museum offers an intimate and moving experience, as if you’re immersing yourself in a world filled with Rokuzan’s passion for love and beauty.

▲Masterpieces like Woman (1910) and Portrait of Torakichi Hojo (1909), both designated Important Cultural Properties, are among the highlights of this deeply curated collection.
▲Masterpieces like Woman (1910) and Portrait of Torakichi Hojo (1909), both designated Important Cultural Properties, are among the highlights of this deeply curated collection.

The museum opened in 1958, born from the desire of local teachers to preserve Rokuzan’s legacy in his hometown. Funding came from over 300,000 donors, including schoolchildren across Nagano Prefecture. The land was donated by the town from a neighboring junior high school, and local students even helped carry bricks, stones, and tiles during construction.

As Azumino’s first art museum, it remains beloved not just by locals, but by visitors from across Japan. In 2022, a crowdfunding campaign to fund building repairs exceeded its goal threefold—testament to the museum’s enduring impact.

▲“One of the hidden joys of the museum is spotting all the unique ‘secret characters’ scattered across the grounds—like sculptor Sōkaijin Sasamura’s praying angel door handles or the woodpecker-shaped door knockers on the various buildings,” says curator Satoshi Takei.
▲“One of the hidden joys of the museum is spotting all the unique ‘secret characters’ scattered across the grounds—like sculptor Sōkaijin Sasamura’s praying angel door handles or the woodpecker-shaped door knockers on the various buildings,” says curator Satoshi Takei.

Another quiet favorite among visitors is the tin-casting workshop (2,500 yen), where you can create your own original keepsake in just 15 minutes—an easy, hands-on way to take home a memory of your trip.

▲Pouring melted tin into a mold is a rare, hands-on experience you won’t find just anywhere.
▲Pouring melted tin into a mold is a rare, hands-on experience you won’t find just anywhere.
▲Choose between two charming motifs—Rokuzankan or an apple—and craft your piece by melting tin in a pot and pouring it into a mold.
▲Choose between two charming motifs—Rokuzankan or an apple—and craft your piece by melting tin in a pot and pouring it into a mold.

The workshop takes place at the whimsical Gooseberry House, a facility on the museum grounds that also houses a uniquely designed museum shop. The surrounding garden blooms with seasonal flowers and greenery, making it easy to lose track of time as you stroll, create, and soak in the beauty of the Rokuzan Art Museum.

  • Rokuzan Art Museum
    碌山美術館
    • Address 5095-1 Hotaka, Azumino City, Nagano Prefecture
    • Phone Number 0263-82-2094
    • ・Hours: 9 AM–5:10 PM (November–February: until 4:10 PM) ※Last entry 30 minutes before closing; Workshop hours: 10 AM–11:45 AM, 1:30 PM–3:30 PM
      ・Closed: Mondays and the day after public holidays (Open daily from May to October)
      ・Admission: Adults 900 yen (700 yen before April 2023), High school students 300 yen, Elementary & Junior high students 150 yen; Casting Workshop 2,500 yen (Admission not included) (All prices tax included)

(12:30 PM) Enjoy Savory Galettes and a Touch of Art at French-Inspired Blé Noir

For lunch, head to the foothills area, known for its charming cafés and galleries. Just a 10-minute drive from the Rokuzan Art Museum, Blé Noir is the first local restaurant in Azumino to specialize in galettes—savory buckwheat crepes from France’s Brittany region.

While Azumino is known for its soba, this unique spot gives buckwheat a delicious French twist, offering a fresh and flavorful alternative that blends culinary craftsmanship with a gallery-like ambiance.

▲Set in a forest, this former art museum retains its gallery-like charm—and admission is free.
▲Set in a forest, this former art museum retains its gallery-like charm—and admission is free.

Originally from Kyushu, the owners, Mr. and Mrs. Nuki, were inspired to move to Azumino after their honeymoon visit to the Rokuzan Art Museum. They were deeply moved by the art, the serene wasabi fields, and the majestic, snow-capped Northern Alps. Their love for French culture and the area's access to pure meltwater and fresh ingredients led them to fulfill their dream of opening a galette café here in 2010.

▲“I was amazed that such a beautiful place existed in Japan,” says owner Mr. Nuki, recalling his first visit to Azumino. Since then, he and his wife have returned many times.
▲“I was amazed that such a beautiful place existed in Japan,” says owner Mr. Nuki, recalling his first visit to Azumino. Since then, he and his wife have returned many times.

To perfect their galette recipes, the couple explored specialty shops across Japan and even traveled to France, studying in Paris and Brittany. They ultimately adopted a recipe from a native of Brittany, which they learned directly. The buckwheat flour comes from the Yatsugatake area, chosen for its ideal flavor. They use Calpis-brand butter, Gruyère cheese from Switzerland, Parisian-style ham, locally grown Azumino produce, and even import their ice cream from Belgium. One French visitor once told them, “These are better than the galettes in Paris,” a comment that continues to motivate them.

▲Galettes—savory buckwheat crepes—are loved as both a light meal and a sweet treat. Popular choices include the “Mademoiselle Gourmande” (1,500 yen), topped with egg, ham, and cheese, and the “Galette Joie” (1,000 yen), served with seasonal compote, vanilla ice cream, and whipped cream. *All prices include tax.
▲Galettes—savory buckwheat crepes—are loved as both a light meal and a sweet treat. Popular choices include the “Mademoiselle Gourmande” (1,500 yen), topped with egg, ham, and cheese, and the “Galette Joie” (1,000 yen), served with seasonal compote, vanilla ice cream, and whipped cream. *All prices include tax.

With health-conscious women taking note of the benefits of buckwheat—rich in rutin, fiber, and vitamin B—galettes are gaining popularity. They're also a delicious way to enjoy plenty of fresh vegetables.

▲The on-site gallery showcases around 50 pieces from the personal collection of Mr. Nuki, a devoted collector of French Art Nouveau painter Alphonse Mucha. Visitors can also enjoy his engaging commentary on the artwork.
▲The on-site gallery showcases around 50 pieces from the personal collection of Mr. Nuki, a devoted collector of French Art Nouveau painter Alphonse Mucha. Visitors can also enjoy his engaging commentary on the artwork.

Many guests take in the gallery while waiting for their meal, making for a well-rounded experience. “Customers often say it’s like getting two treats in one,” says Mr. Nuki with a smile. His gentle demeanor adds to the warm and relaxing atmosphere.

  • Blé Noir
    ブレ・ノワール
    • Address 7686-1 Hotaka Ariake, Azumino City, Nagano Prefecture
    • Phone Number 0263-31-6969
    • ・Hours: 10:30 AM–4:30 PM (Open until 5 PM on Saturdays, Sundays & Holidays from March–November)
      ・Closed: Tuesday & Wednesday (Open if a public holiday)

Souvenir Column

A Culinary Art Form: Shinshu Apple Pastries Shaped Like Roses

After a morning of exploring Azumino’s natural charm, why not slow down in the afternoon with some souvenir shopping? Head to spots offering edible treasures you’ll only find here.

The first stop is apple & roses, a beloved pastry shop in the heart of the foothill area, known for its elegant sweets made with Shinshu apples and flowers. The signature “Apple & Roses Tart” (3 pieces for 3,888 yen, tax included) resembles a bouquet of blooming roses, while the “Tatin Sand” (5 pieces for 1,994 yen, tax included) is a flavorful creation made with the essence of an entire apple per bar. Both are crafted with a focus on premium ingredients and unique techniques.

The shop is run by the Kurehas—Hideki, with a background in design and menu development, and his wife Eri, who formerly worked with flowers and imported tableware. Drawing on their international experiences, they opened the store at the foot of the beloved Northern Alps to share the richness of Nagano’s nature and flavors.

Every item feels like a bouquet meant to delight someone special—perfect as a gift or a personal treat. Many items also have a long shelf life, making them ideal for souvenirs. The adjoining salon offers a refined space to enjoy afternoon tea, inviting you to unwind and soak in the resort-like tranquility of Azumino.

▲These handmade Western-style confections are crafted with care using low-pesticide apples from contracted farms and domestically produced butter. Their vibrant colors and charming designs are sure to delight.
▲These handmade Western-style confections are crafted with care using low-pesticide apples from contracted farms and domestically produced butter. Their vibrant colors and charming designs are sure to delight.
  • Apple and Roses Azumino Main Store
    アップルアンドローゼス 安曇野本店
    • Address 8161-1 Hotaka Ariake, Azumino City, Nagano Prefecture
    • Phone Number 0263-31-0655
    • ・Hours: 10 AM–6 PM (November–March: until 5 PM)
      ・Closed: Tuesdays (Open daily in August)

Azumino is a destination for those seeking new sights and first-time experiences. From breathtaking scenery and locally rooted flavors to inspiring art and warm encounters, everything you discover here is uniquely tied to this land. Starting your day early lets you make the most of every hour—and the unforgettable memories created in those fleeting moments may just add a new spark to your life.

(Note: This article is based on information gathered at the time of coverage. Please contact each location directly for the most up-to-date details. Unauthorized reproduction or use of the photos and text in this article is strictly prohibited.)

*This information is from the time of this article's publication.
*Prices and options mentioned are subject to change.
*Unless stated otherwise, all prices include tax.

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