A 40-minute trip by bus from Yamagata Station (on the Yamagata Shinkansen), Zao Onsen Ski Resort has always been famous for its “snow monsters.” Snow and ice encrust the trees, creating an incredible sight. And you don’t have to risk hiking on the snow to get there: a ropeway will take you right to them! The trees are picturesque against a blue sky, but their light-up shows at night are otherworldly. For 2021-2022, they are planned to be illuminated between December 25 and February 28.

Zao Onsen Ski Resort
Address: Zao Onsen, Yamagata City, Yamagata Prefecture
ROUTE: Tokyo Station → (Yamagata Shinkansen) 2.5 hours → Yamagata Station → (Route Bus) 50 min. → Zao Onsen Bus Terminal

We recommend Takamiya Ryokan Miyamaso in the Zao area as a place to stay. It stands out among other onsen inns for its traditional Japanese architecture, and has stood for over 300 years. It’s the perfect option for people who want to soak in Japanese aesthetic, too. Their free-flowing onsen is sourced from a private and pure hot spring source. They also have a rentable private bath with a traditional Shigaraki stoneware tub.

Takamiya Ryokan Miyamaso
Address: Zao Onsen 54, Yamagata City, Yamagata Prefecture
ROUTE: Tokyo Station → [Yamagata Shinkansen] 2.5 hours → Yamagata Station → [Route Bus] 50 min. → Zao Onsen Bus Terminal → [Walk] 10 min. → Arrival

Kakunodate is a stop on the Akita Shinkansen, known for its Bukeyashiki Street, where many old samurai houses still stand. Kakunodate prospered between 200-400 years ago as a castle town, and the buildings built then are still preserved today as Important Cultural Assets registered with the Japanese government. During the cold weather between January and February, snow piles up on the sakura tree branches, creating beautiful white sights known as “yukizakura.” Dress up in a warm kimono for a memorable photogenic stroll among these snowy sights!

“Akita beauty” refers to one of the ideal forms of Japanese feminine beauty, and just as that implies, Akita is famous as the birthplace of some of Japan’s most beautiful women. Lake Tazawa, just one Shinkansen station away from Kakunodate, brings you near Nyuto Onsen, famed for its “waters of beauty.” The onsen inn with the longest history here is “Tsuru no Yu.” The sight of its milky-white outdoor waters bordered by snow is a bath for the soul.

Tsurunoyu Onsen
Address: 50 Kokuyurin Sendatsuizawa Tazawa Aza, Semboku City, Akita Prefecture
ROUTE: Tokyo Station → (Akita Shinkansen) 3 hours → Tazawako Station → (Scheduled Bus or Ugokotsu Bus bound for Nyuto Onsen) 35 min. → Alpa Komakusa → (Shuttle bus) → Arrival
*If you want to use the shuttle bus, please call the bus when you arrive at Tazawako Station.

Hachimantai is a city on the border of Iwate and Akita prefectures, accessible by buses from Morioka Station (served by the Tohoku Shinkansen). During the summer, it’s a popular spot for trekking. From January to March, however, expert mountain climbers hike here to see its “snow monsters!”

Hachimantai Resort has two main ski areas: the Panorama ski area and the Shimokura ski area. It’s an incredible thrill to ski down the 1,130-meter-high mountain from its peak! A variety of other snow activities can be enjoyed in its silver wonderland, and following up with a relaxing soak in an onsen bath is pure delight!

Hachimantai Resort Panorama Ski Area
Address: Matsuoyoriki 1-509-1, Hachimantai City, Iwate Prefecture
ROUTE: Tokyo Station → (Tohoku Shinkansen) 2.25 hours → Morioka Station → (Iwate Prefecture Kita Bus) 90 min. → Hachimantai Mountain Hotel

For those who want to stay at an onsen inn, we recommend Matsukawa Onsen Kyounso, located within Hachimantai National Park. Their winter outdoor baths have a great view of Hachimantai’s natural features, laden with snow. Their milky-white hot springs are said to remedy nerve pain and skin disorders. And despite Kyounso’s simple and traditional Japanese style, they happily have some Western-style rooms with comfy beds.

Appi Kogen in Iwate can be reached by direct buses departing from Morioka Station (served by the Tohoku Shinkansen). As one of Tohoku’s premier ski resorts, it has 21 courses for everyone from beginners to advanced skiers. There are other snow activity plans available, like snow tubing!

Appi Kogen Ski Resort
Address: Appi Kogen 117-1, Hachimantai City, Iwate Prefecture
ROUTE: Tokyo Station → (Tohoku Shinkansen) 2.25 hours → Morioka Station → (JR Hanawa Line) 1 hour → Appi Kogen Station

Hotel Appi Grand in Appi Kogen (to be renamed ANA Crown Plaza Resort Appi Kogen from 12/16/2021) may be a ski resort, but it has a full suite of relaxation services! At APPI SANATIO SPA, there are detox courses including “pick-an-aroma relaxation” and Ayurveda, and full-fledged esthetic treatment services.

Also, the locally accessible “Appi Onsen Shirakaba no Yu” has some of Tohoku’s greatest outdoor hot spring baths, including stone baths, reclining baths, and many other kinds. Their saunas can seat up to 50 people, so there’s little doubt you’ll find a way to recover from built-up fatigue.

Our next destination takes us all the way to Shin-Aomori Station by Tohoku Shinkansen, where we switch to conventional or express lines to get to the Kuroishi Onsen region. Presently, their “Kuroishi Kokeshi” lanterns are gathering attention as great subjects for photography you can share over social media. Kokeshi are a traditional form of doll crafted in the Tohoku region, but their appearances differ between areas. Kuroishi is said to be the origin of “Nuruyu kokeshi,” which are set apart from other kokeshi by their stretched hourglass figure. You can find an abundance of these kokeshi in lamp form on Nakamachi Komise Street. Their warm and gentle light shines through simple expressions, charming those that look upon them.

To expand your Japanese cultural experience beyond kokeshi, we recommend staying at Dake Onsen Yama no Hotel. Here you will find rare tatami baths, which allow you to rest your head while you relax and let hot spring water wash over you. It’s a local custom called “todo-ne,” or sea lion napping. Even among Japan’s many hot springs, this is a rare kind of luxury, and it’s sure to become a great winter memory.

The snowy spots and onsen inns introduced in this article can be reached by a combination of Shinkansen, express train, and local train lines. If you use the Shinkansen, a JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) is by and far the best deal!

It’s 20,000 yen for adults and 10,000 yen for children and allows unlimited usage of reserved, Ordinary Car seats in Shinkansen and JR-affiliated rapid trains, express trains, and ordinary trains over five days.

And guess what, expats—this deal is for you, too! The passes are available to anyone with a non-Japanese passport.For more information, including usage restrictions, follow the link below.

Make good use of the trains and you’ll be free to explore the fantastic winter scenery and onsen inns of all the prefectures in Tohoku! Winter truly is the best time to experience these recommended Tohoku locations.