The image of the "kissaten" (喫茶店) in Japan is similar to, but a little different than that of the "cafe."

Nowadays, a "kissaten" refers to a place where you can drink coffee that usually has a traditional, retro vibe. A "cafe" is more of a chic, modern shop where you can enjoy coffee as well as the newest sweets.

However, the cafe actually has a much longer history in Japan.

The first cafe in Japan was said to be the Kahisakan, which opened in Ueno, Tokyo, in 1888. Here, people could mingle with each other while enjoying a nice fresh cup of coffee. Afterward, the concept gradually spread throughout the world. From the Taisho Period to the early Showa Period, cafes began to spring up all over.

At that time, the word "cafe" referred to more than just these shops where you could drink coffee and mingle. It also referred to bars, cabaret clubs, and other such places in which customers were served alcohol by female staff.

To distinguish one from the other, shops that purely sold coffee and light meals came to be known as "jun-kissa" (純喫茶) or "kissaten" - coffee shops.

One unique part of kissaten culture is the Morning Service. When you order coffee at breakfast time, you can also get bread, eggs, or salad added on for free, or at a discount. This morning service is often simply called 'Morning,' or モーニング in Japanese. It also refers to the breakfast menu itself.

Where the name "Morning Service" came from is not exactly clear, although there are several theories that it began in Aichi and Hiroshima prefectures. One of the predominant theories is that it started as a service for people who used kissaten for morning business negotiations where they served peanuts and boiled eggs.

Eventually, each shop developed its own original menu consisting of popular breakfast foods, such as egg sandwiches and fried eggs on toast. Even today, the standard morning service menu is a combination of eggs and bread.

The interesting thing about the Morning Service is that each region has its own particular version. For example, an egg sandwich may be called an egg sandwich everywhere, but how it is made varies from region to region. In the Kanto region, they use egg salad consisting of crushed boiled eggs mixed with mayonnaise. In Kansai, however, it's more common to use thick, grilled eggs cooked like an omelet.

As one of the birthplaces of the Morning Service, Aichi Prefecture has a wide variety of Morning Service menus to choose from, including special menus established courtesy of town campaigns.

Nagoya City, a city in Aichi Prefecture, is particularly famous for its Ogura Toast. A dish consisting of red bean paste and butter, it has become a well-known staple of kissaten menus throughout Nagoya. Some places serve Morning Service dishes all day long, as well, making it a popular part of the local gourmet.

Today, we spoke with Kayaba Coffee shop manager, Mr. Naruse, about the history of this shop and its unique Japanese kissaten culture.

-Please tell us a little about the history of Kayaba Coffee.

"Kayaba Coffee was founded in 1938. The previous owner, Mr. Kayaba, ran it with his family for a long time. The shop was a favorite of the locals, and a symbol of Yanaka [a historic neighborhood in Tokyo].

"When the family decided to close shop in 2006, many people spoke out against it. 'Don't destroy this building! It's a precious symbol of Yanaka!' 'Let it remain as a place full of memories where people can relax'.

"With that, the shop reopened in 2008 thanks to local volunteers and the NPO, Taito Cultural & Historical Society.

After that, thanks to connections with our company (Five Cups Co., Ltd.), we took over its operation."

-It's not easy to create a new shop with new people while retaining its traditional atmosphere, is it?

"The most important thing is establishing a balance between the old-fashioned charm while incorporating new things.

"If the purpose was to simply keep the building around, there are lots of other ways to use it, such as for a gallery.

"But after hearing stories from the locals who frequented Kayaba Coffee, I felt it would be more meaningful to leave it as the same Kayaba Coffee they knew and loved growing up. Isn't it important to keep that alive?"

"On the other hand, rather than simply leaving it as a relic, I think it's also important to touch it up in accordance with the times by incorporating new ideas.

"So on top of management, I also make it a point to challenge new things. I always cherish it. The theme is, 'learning from the past.'"

(*By developing new ideas based on studying old teachings from the past.)

-The vibe of the interior has a unique charm you don't usually find in newer shops.

"The structure of the two-story wooden building and the interior retains the old-fashioned atmosphere. However, we regularly maintain it following modern standards of comfort, cleanliness, and convenience."

"The exterior is characterized by the hipped roof you usually see in traditional Japanese-style houses. It uses 'dashigeta-zukuri,' a girder structure of exposed beams (the white parts peeking out from under the roof). This structure was a common sight in the streets of old Japan but is pretty rare to come across nowadays."

-Why do you think people still love Kayaba Coffee?

"Because people of all walks of life were involved in the development of the shop, I think people of all generations, whether old-timers or newcomers, can appreciate it."

"Our customer base consists of young people who heard about us on social media, people stopping by during their annual grave visit, foreigners interested in the architecture, and office workers who just happen to be passing by.

"We get all types of people. I think the reason so many people visit the shop is that its unique atmosphere blends the nostalgia of the old kissaten with that of a modern, trendy cafe".

"Although I've maintained the shop's original recipes and kept its nostalgic atmosphere as-is, I still want our customers to feel some novelty. After all, that's what it means to eat at Kayaba Coffee. It's of utmost importance to me to fine-tune this space and its atmosphere so that customers can experience that unique, special vibe that only Kayaba Coffee can offer".

This is a modern take on the classic Egg Sandwich, using the old-fashioned recipe and sourdough bread. With crisp bread on the outside and fluffy egg on the inside, this dish is sure to be a familiar favorite for foreign visitors.

Many kissaten sandwiches are soft, fluffy, and made to be eaten quickly. However, Kayaba Coffee's egg sandwiches are filling enough that you'll want to take your time.

"I consider the volume of the meal and its ingredients so that customers can take their time and enjoy their coffee and food," says Naruse. It's easy to see what great care has been put into even the most minor details of the shop!

The Morning Service is available during a 3-hour window, from 8:00 a.m. to 11:00 a.m. All dishes include freshly squeezed juice or the soup of the day. Some include a seasonal vegetable salad.

Try the Red Bean Butter Toast for an authentically Japanese kissaten dish made with Japanese ingredients.

The mildly sweet bean paste blends perfectly with the rich buttery flavor.

Add a touch of the included mascarpone cheese for a subtle dash of flavor.

Yanaka Ginger is a drink made using original ginger syrup and added spices. This refreshingly aromatic beverage comes iced in the summer and hot in the winter, and pairs perfectly well with Red Bean Butter Toast any time of year!

The 'Russian' is a traditional coffee arrangement popular in Ukraine. Kayaba Coffee's version mixes drip coffee, chocolate syrup, and milk.

The coffee is fragrant, mildly sweet, and easy to drink, even for non-coffee drinkers! It's a drink we highly recommend!

Kayaba Coffee is brimming with history and feelings of the many people who have passed through its doors. It's not easy to maintain an old-fashioned building such as this while simultaneously making it new.

That exquisite balance it achieves between old-fashioned goodness and the modern vibe of the times is all thanks to the many people who poured out their love for the shop to keep it alive.

Time passes slowly when you sit and relax at Kayaba Coffee. Next time you find yourself in Japan, this is one place you won't want to skip.

*Information in article as of May 2022

Translated by: Krys Suzuki