Our first stop is Fukagawa Onsen Tokiwayu, a popular sento in Tokyo's Koto Ward, just under 30 minutes from Tokyo or Ginza Station. This facility is well-loved by both locals and visitors from afar. The exterior boasts a traditional temple-like style called "miya-zukuri." It's a place where you can truly feel the charm of a classic old-fashioned bathhouse, with an exterior that resembles a traditional temple or shrine. Let's dive into the experience with Roman and discover what makes this place special.

"Walking through the noren curtain always feels like a truly Japanese experience," says Roman.
Many sento have traditional Japanese noren curtains bearing family crests or the sento mark (♨) hanging at their entrances. These curtains serve to block wind and light from entering directly into the building and act as a soft barrier between the inside and outside. More importantly, they indicate whether the sento is open—if the noren is hanging, the sento is open; if it's tucked away, the sento is closed.

"Removing your shoes before entering a building is very typical of Japan."
Japan's climate is often damp and humid, so it's common for people to remove their shoes whenever possible. In fact, it's a standard practice to take off your shoes before entering a home or building. Typically, there's a step at the entrance where you should remove your shoes before going further inside. Once you've taken them off, place them in the designated locker and lock it with a key before entering the main area.

Payment for using the bathhouse is required in advance. You can pay at the ticket vending machine or staff counter at the entrance. The fee for all public bathhouses in Tokyo is 550 yen (as of August 2024). In addition to that, you can rent or purchase items such as bath towels, hairdryers, and soap.

Tokiwayu accepts various payment methods including cash, credit card, transportation IC card, and QR code payments. Accepted payment methods vary by facility, so be sure to check before you visit.
After paying the fee, you can head into the bathing area. The bathing areas are segregated by gender, and there's usually a noren curtain hanging in front of each entrance.

"When I entered the building, one of the most surprising things was the high ceilings. It's at least two or three stories high! The space feels so open and airy."

Traditional Japanese bathhouses often boast high ceilings to prevent moisture accumulation. These high ceilings also allow for the elaborate, miya-zukuri-style gabled roofs. The ceiling at Fukagawa Onsen Tokiwayu is particularly high. In fact, it's among the highest of any bathhouse in Tokyo.

"The interior is very clean, and the facilities are all brand-new!"
Tokiwayu, which has been operating in the Koto Ward for 80 years, underwent a renovation in March 2023, preserving the charming traditional architecture while updating the interior. The establishment now plays jazz music, creating a modern ambiance. Recently, more sento have followed Tokiwayu's lead with expansive renovations that retain the classic characteristics of old-fashioned bathhouses.

Remove all your clothes and place them in the locker. Now it's time to enjoy your bath.
"The bamboo baskets on top of the lockers were likely used to store belongings in the past. You can feel the history even in these small details," says Roman.
Even with all the latest bells and whistles, the charm of Tokyo's bathhouses lies in the remnants of their old-fashioned ambiance.

In some bathhouses, near the entrance to the bathing area, there'll be a basin of warm water with ladles and buckets nearby. Before entering any tub, you should use these to pour water over yourself. This washes away sweat and dirt from your body and allows your skin to adjust to the hot water.

Bathhouses are shared facilities, so to keep them clean, make sure to thoroughly wash your body and hair before entering a bath. Also, avoid bringing towels that you've used on your hair or body into the tub, as putting a dirty towel in the water is considered rude.
"When I first visited a sento, I was a bit confused by all the specific rules. But this is a shared space, and we should keep it clean for everyone, so these practices make a lot of sense."

"There's nothing like soaking in a large bath! It's incredibly relaxing and the high ceilings adorned with painted murals add to the experience. That sense of openness is unique to sento. Once you experience it, you'll understand why people in Japan happily pay to visit them," says Roman, who has grown to love sento in the many years he's lived in Japan.

Many bathhouses in Tokyo use water from natural hot springs that come from underground sources. Tokiwayu is one such bathhouse where you can enjoy a bath with amber-colored sodium chloride spring water.
"Being able to enjoy hot springs in the middle of Tokyo is quite a surprise!"

Next, Roman visited Sakaeyu to experience one of Tokyo's newest bathhouses. Only a 30-minute journey from Shinjuku Station, this popular bathhouse offers a modern twist on the traditional bathhouse experience.

At first glance, Sakaeyu's sleek, modern exterior might be mistaken for a hotel, blending seamlessly with the cityscape. However, the entrance features a traditional noren curtain and a shoe cupboard just like any other bathhouse. With a history of approximately 80 years in the area, Sakaeyu was originally housed in a traditional wooden structure. After several updates throughout the years, it underwent a complete renovation in November 2017, transforming into its current modern form.

"The light green noren curtain is so bright and stylish! I can't wait to go inside," says Roman. After removing his shoes and storing them in the shoe cupboard, he pays the 550 yen entrance fee and the 200 yen rental fee for the towel set (as of August 2024) before heading inside.

At the counter just inside, he collects his rental towel set.
"Just like at Tokiwayu earlier, you can rent towels, and some bathhouses even provide shampoo and soap. That's incredibly convenient for travelers since it makes it so easy to visit without needing to worry about bringing a bunch of things," Roman notes.
He takes off his clothing in the changing area and heads toward the bathing area.

"This bathhouse has a mystical aura! The colored lights—blue, yellow, purple, orange—make it hard to tell whether it's day or night, erasing one's sense of time. The different patterns and shapes of the tiles on the walls, floor, and ceiling change and shift slightly with every angle, which is really gorgeous."

The washing area is enveloped in a fantastical color scheme, allowing you to wash your body in peace. The sound of rumbling bubbles in the jacuzzi further enhances the atmosphere.

"The large bathtub and the effect of the lighting create a very relaxing bathing experience. It's wonderful to find a bathhouse where you can relax so thoroughly, even without the traditional painted murals often seen in Tokyo bathhouses."
Sakaeyu offers a variety of bathing facilities, including two bathtubs with different temperatures, a jacuzzi, a sauna, and a semi-outdoor bath. One of the joys of visiting a bathhouse is being able to enjoy such facilities, which you don't have at home.

Roman, who enjoyed the popular sauna at Sakaeyu, says, "I was surprised to see the painting of Buddha on the sauna ceiling! I was honestly shocked when I went from the white tiles and lighting of the bath area to the sauna with that enormous ceiling mural."
It turns out that the design of Sakaeyu was inspired by a nearby park that features statues of Socrates, Kant, Confucius, Buddha, and various other icons of philosophy and religion.

When exiting a bath, it's best to thoroughly dry off with a towel before walking to the changing room. This helps prevent the changing room floor from getting wet and ensures everyone can use the facility comfortably. Though the other people using the bathhouse might be strangers, at Japanese sento, everyone shares an understanding that working together to care for the communal space will make the experience better for everyone.

While relaxing in the changing room, Roman was approached by a local regular. It's common at bathhouses for conversations to start up in a bath, changing room, or lobby.
"We talked not only about the bathhouse but also about spots in the area to get delicious food and local history. Though it was brief, we had a great conversation!"
Bathhouses have long been community hubs where people gather. Part of their charm is that even strangers feel comfortable striking up a conversation there.

"Coffee with milk is a must after a bath! I've always admired this tradition from manga and anime. After sweating it out in the bath and sauna, this cold drink is incredibly refreshing," he says, eagerly gulping down his coffee.
The tradition of drinking milk at public baths began about 70 years ago in the 1950s. At that time, most households didn't have refrigerators, so people rarely bought milk, since it spoiled so quickly. To increase sales, milk companies set up refrigerators in public baths, which were popular gathering spots, and began selling their drinks. This led to the unique Japanese tradition of enjoying milk after a bath.

"What's this? It's so cool! They're selling original T-shirts and towels with the Sakaeyu logo!"
Many sento offer unique merchandise featuring the bathhouse's logos or family crests. These items often have traditional Japanese designs, making them ideal souvenirs to remember your bathhouse experience. Purchase a T-shirt to wear after your bath—a practical and memorable keepsake.

To conclude, we asked Roman, who spent the day experiencing both a traditional old bathhouse and a recently-renovated new bathhouse, about the appeal of Japanese bathhouses.
"Today, I visited two completely different sento—one steeped in tradition and history, and the other reinvented for the modern age. It's fascinating how they preserve their heritage while evolving and adding new elements, much like the city of Tokyo itself. This contrast captures the unique allure of Japanese bathhouses perfectly.
"I think the essence of sento is relaxation. It's not just about relaxing alone but about the unique experience of relaxing together with many people in a shared space. Even if you're surrounded by strangers, seeing others unwind next to you naturally helps you to release your own stress and fully relax. This is why conversations start so easily at sento and a sense of community forms. Being able to directly experience such an important piece of traditional Japanese culture for an entry fee of only 550 yen (as of August 2024) is something you can't find anywhere but sento."
The iconic sento—a vital part of Tokyo's culture since the Edo period. Why not give it a try on your visit to Japan?