Hokkaido boasts a rich natural environment, including the Shiretoko Peninsula, a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site. Amidst this vast landscape, numerous archaeological sites have revealed that people in this region lived sedentary lives based on fishing, hunting, and gathering for over 10,000 years. On July 27, 2021, 17 Jomon sites were registered as World Heritage sites. These include the Sannai-Maruyama Ruins in Aomori Prefecture, the Oyu Stone Circles in Akita Prefecture, as well as other Jomon sites spread across three prefectures of the Tohoku Region.

Located in the northeastern part of Hakodate, the Minami Kayabe area is home to two historical World Heritage sites. This region was inhabited for thousands of years during the early to late Jomon Period, with its mild climate, low snowfall, and abundant seafood and mountain produce.

Today, these historical sites serve as a testament to the lives of the people who settled here, and are open to the public for free exploration. Minami Kayabe also hosts educational facilities that display valuable Hakodate artifacts and provide insights into the history and culture of the Jomon Period.

One of the historic World Heritage Site in the Minami Kayabe area is the Ofune Site. This archaeological site, located on a coastal terrace, spans nearly 7.2-hectares and shows evidence of a settlement that existed from 3500 to 2000 BCE.

Surrounded by seas and forests, and with the Ofune River nearby, where you can even watch salmon migrating upstream, the natural environment reflects the lifestyle of the people who once lived there. Since its excavation, the Ofune Site has been preserved as a historical site and is now open to visitors.

For those traveling by car, please note that the entrance to the parking lot is not located along the bus route side of National Route 278. Instead, access from the rear side via National Route 278 Osatsube Road.

Down the staircase from the parking lot, you'll find the Jomon no Mori (Jomon Forest), where walking paths wind through lush greenery. Historically, numerous deciduous broadleaf trees, including chestnut trees introduced to Hokkaido during the Jomon Period, flourished around the Ofune Site. Efforts to restore this vegetation are ongoing, with local citizens actively planting trees in the area.

The forest is quiet and peaceful, with only the sounds of birds and insects. Each planted tree is tagged with a nameplate containing a QR code, which visitors can scan with their phones to learn more about the plants.

South of the Jomon-no-Mori zone lies the Jomon-no-Niwa (Jomon Garden) area. This section features restored pit dwellings, including one fully reconstructed building and two building frameworks, offering a glimpse into what the village might have looked like in ancient times. Exhibit explanations are also available in English.

Here you can see the inside of a fully restored pit dwelling from the entrance. It also has replicas of an altar and a hearth, offering a glimpse into the daily life of that time.

In addition to the above, there are three reconstructed pits (without structures). One distinctive feature of the Ofune Site is the depth of these pits, some exceeding an impressive two meters, which you can appreciate by simply peering into them.

Over 100 dwelling sites have been discovered in Ofune. In some cases, these pits have even been found to overlap, indicating that over the span of 1,500 years, people repeatedly settled and built in the same locations.

Located between the Jomon-no-Mori and Jomon-no-Niwa zones is the administrative building. Twice daily, staff offer guided tours of the site (in Japanese only). Inside the building, you'll find displays and a rest area where you can take a break from your exploration.

Piled next to this building are stone slabs excavated from the ruins. During the Jomon Period, it is believed that people used these stones to grind nuts and meat. The large number of slabs found here highlights the significant number of people who lived in this area over the centuries.

Inside is a display corner where you can learn more about the excavation process and see dioramas depicting the site during its excavation.

The entire historical site can be explored in about 30 to 40 minutes. On clear days, you can even see the Pacific Ocean beyond the ruins. We recommend taking a leisurely stroll to enjoy the same stunning scenery that the Jomon people once admired from this vantage point.

The Minami Kayabe area also includes the Hakodate Jomon Culture Center, where you can delve deeper into the Ofune Site and Jomon culture. It's just six minutes south of the Ofune Site by car along Osatsube Road.

Entering through the second-floor entrance, you’ll find Exhibit Room 1, where you can explore the cultural evolution from the Paleolithic Era to ancient times across the world, including Hokkaido, Hakodate, and the rest of Japan.

While the Ofune Site dates back about 3,500 to 2,000 years, artifacts as old as 9,900 years have been discovered in Hakodate. Some of these findings closely resemble those from northeastern Tohoku, suggesting that people have crossed the Tsugaru Strait since ancient times.

The exhibits are creatively designed to engage visitors, featuring displays with drawers containing additional information and peepholes that offer glimpses into scenes beyond the main displays. Most explanations throughout the center are provided in both Japanese and English.

Go down the stairs to the first floor to find Exhibit Room 2, which highlights the lives of the Jomon people and artifacts primarily excavated from the Hakodate area.

The main display cases are divided into three themes representing the core activities that sustained Jomon life: fishing, hunting, and gathering. The exhibit includes tools used and food excavated from the site, all of which offer a clear insight into the daily lives of the Jomon people.

Upon entering Exhibit Room 2, you'll find a wall displaying Jomon pottery excavated in Hakodate, arranged chronologically. This display illustrates how a variety of vessels were created by adding handles, spouts, and other modifications to their originally simple shapes to tailor them to their specific purposes.

Here is an impressive display of arrowheads made from broken stone and used for hunting, neatly arranged by shape and size.

In the Fishing Section, shells and fish bones excavated from shell mounds are on display, sorted by type. Some, like sardine bones, are so fine they almost blend in with the sand, highlighting the keen eye of the experts who identified them.

Exhibit Room 3 centers on spiritual artifacts of the Jomon people. One notable item is the Footprint Clay Tablet, imprinted with children's footprints. The holes in it indicate that it may have been hung as a decoration.

It is also believed to have been a burial item for the child’s parents, although its exact purpose and context remain unclear. Nonetheless, this artifact conveys the Jomon people's belief in the cycles of life and rebirth.

The final area is Exhibit Room 4, where you'll see the Chuku-Dogu (hollow clay) figurine known as Kakku, designated as a National Treasure in 2007.

This figurine, discovered in a home garden in the Minami Kayabe area, was excavated from a grave, and dates to the late Jomon Period (around 3,500 years ago).

As the name 'Chuku' (literally 'empty') suggests, the inside is indeed hollow. The figurine is thin and intricately crafted from head to toe, with elaborate patterns that reflect the advanced craftsmanship of the time.

Interestingly, a CT scan was performed on Kakku at a hospital in Hakodate to confirm its hollow interior. However, because medical equipment in Japan can only be used on humans, Kakku actually had to be registered as a patient! In fact, it even received its very own hospital ID card—a humorous anecdote that is still retold today.

After checking out the exhibits, head back to the second floor and visit the Hands-On Lab. Here, you can participate in hands-on crafting activities such as Jomon Pendant Making and Kumihimo (braided cord) Accessories, starting at just 100 yen (*reservations not required; see note). Today we checked out the Miniature Pottery Making experience for 350 yen!

*Note: Reservations required for groups of six or more. Programs subject to change or cancellation depending on day. Please inquire beforehand if you're set on a specific activity.

First, select a miniature pottery design to use as a reference from the samples provided. Our choice was one with pointed decorative accents. However, keep in mind that these designs are just for inspiration—you’re free to create whatever shape you like!

Once seated with your sample, the tools are laid out before you: clay, a workboard, and a tray of water. The process begins by dividing the clay into six equal parts. Take one piece, soak in the water to soften it, and knead it to form the round base.

Next, fashion the sides by kneading another piece of clay in the same way by using the water. Then, stretch it into a long strip, shape it into a cylinder, and place it on the bottom. While the clay is still soft, use your fingers to smooth it at the joints to prevent any gaps.

The staff advised us, “Be sure to seal any gaps, especially if you’re planning to bake it later! Otherwise, it’s more likely to crack!” The clay is soft and easy to work with, so it’s rather easy to smooth out any gaps by simply patting it down lightly.

Repeat the process of crafting the sides four times, and gradually, your pottery will start to take shape!

Next, divide the final piece of clay into five parts. These will form the pointed decorative accents.

Once you’ve shaped your pottery, it’s time to decorate! You can press a string into the clay to form textured rope patterns, use a perforated rod to make circular designs, or use an awl to etch patterns freehand. You’re free to follow the sample, or let your creativity guide you! The entire process takes about 60 minutes, though some may complete it quicker.

After your pottery masterpiece is finished, it’s yours to take home. Since the clay will still be soft, it will be packed in a box to prevent it from being crushed. It will naturally harden after two to three days if left to air dry (out of direct sunlight), but you can also bake it in your regular household oven for a more authentic finish.

If you're not confident in your crafting skills, you can purchase pre-made mini pottery pieces, perfect for souvenirs. You'll also find unique items like floating ballpoint pens with a mini Kakku inside that moves as you write!

After visiting the center, make sure to stop by the neighboring Michi-no-Eki Jomon Roman Minami Kayabe, accessible via direct passageway from the building. Here, you can purchase quality kombu amongst other processed goods from the Minami Kayabe area, making it a great spot for souvenir shopping.

Other popular souvenirs include sweets inspired by Jomon culture and the clay figurines. The most popular item is the MONA+SK Chuku-Dogu Kakku, a Japanese-style wafer cookie stuffed with cookie dough. The crisp, light texture, combined with the flavors of matcha and Minami Kayabe's specialty kombu (Gagome kombu) makes it a delicious treat that’s hard to resist.

They also offer take-out sweets, such as the local specialty Jomon Walnut Soft Serve, made with walnuts, which were a staple in the Jomon diet. It has a rich, smooth flavor with a sprinkling of walnut powder that adds an aromatic touch. Available from mid-March to mid-November.

Next to the Michi-no-Eki is the gate to another World Heritage site, the Kakinoshima Site. Unlike the Ofune Site, this site has seen limited excavation for conservation purposes, and stands as evidence of a settlement that spanned 6,000 years (from 9,000 to 3,000 years ago)!

Walking paths have been developed within the site, where visitors can enjoy AR and VR content using a phone or tablet. The historic site is also equipped with Wi-Fi, with tablets for digital content available to rent at the Kakinoshima Site Information Office near the gate.

The Minami Kayabe area has been continuously inhabited for nearly 10,000 years, as evidenced by the two archaeological sites and the Jomon Culture Center. Visiting the area, one can sense why this location, with its rich natural environment, has been so loved for so long.

The shallow seas are ideal for cultivating kombu, and the local seafood is superb, making the sushi shops and other eateries in the area absolutely worth a visit during your trip! So let your mind drift back to ancient times, and take in the peaceful scenery of this historic fishing village.


Photography: Shuichi Miyazawa
Original text and editing: Minna no Kotoba-sha

English translation by: Krys Suzuki