The kuromontsuki haori hakama is the highest-ranking men’s kimono, often reserved for formal events like weddings, coming-of-age ceremonies, and funerals.

This outfit includes a haori (a light coat) and hakama (loose trousers). The haori is typically made from black habutai (a traditional silk fabric), while the hakama is crafted from sendaihira, a refined silk from the Sendai region of Japan.

The five kamon (family crests) on the haori add an extra layer of elegance and formality to this attire, making it Japan’s top men’s formal wear.

This slightly less formal style is called the iromontsuki haori hakama. It features a colored habutai haori, paired with a nagagi (a long kimono without trousers) and sendaihira hakama.

Perfect for weddings and age ceremonies (but generally not for funerals), this attire comes in variations with five, three, or one kamon.

The fewer the kamon, the more casual the outfit—so for highly formal events, a five-kamon haori is recommended.

The haori hakama is a versatile choice for slightly less formal occasions. There are two main fabric options for this style: omeshi (a type of silk crepe) and tsumugi (a woven silk). Generally, omeshi is considered more formal than tsumugi. The number of kamon on this outfit is usually three or one, indicating a lower level of formality than the iromontsuki style.

・Nagagi: This is a style that doesn’t include trousers like the hakama. It’s more casual and can be paired with either omeshi or tsumugi fabric. You can mix and match the haori and nagagi based on your preference, creating a unique look that still maintains elegance.

・Kinagashi: On informal occasions, a man can wear a kimono without the haori coat—this is known as kinagashi. This is a simpler, comfortable way to wear a kimono, perfect for anyone who wants to try out the traditional look in a more relaxed setting.

When choosing a men’s kimono, consider the occasion and fabric. With these styles, you can embrace Japanese tradition in a way that feels right for you!

Illustrations courtesy of Manga de Japan