The Tokyo Sakura Tram (Toden Arakawa Line) runs from Minowabashi (in Arakawa-ku) to Waseda (in Shinjuku-ku) stretching 12.2 km and having 30 stops along the way. It is called “Toden” for short. In the heyday of trams there were at one point 41 traversing the city, but as traffic conditions changed, they gradually disappeared and today the Tokyo Sakura Tram is the last remaining one. It got its moniker in 2017. During the spring and autumn it is also famous for the roses that bloom along its tracks.

The starting terminus of the Toden is Minowabashi. One street back from the station is the Joyful Minowabashi shopping district with its many shops evoking a time long past, such as the Omura Pan bread shop. The third-generation owner uses no additives in his products and it is so popular that after the lunch hour his showcase is practically empty. Especially popular are the croquette buns, curry buns, and ham cutlet buns (135 yen each). These are all made in the shop’s own deep-fat fryer. The tonkatsu (pork cutlet) bread (180 yen) is favored by older customers because it is soft and easy to eat.

Sakura Senbei is only a two-minute walk away from the Minowabashi tram stop and has been in business here continuously for over 70 years. Using only domestic rice as an ingredient, it makes senbei by hand in the old-fashioned unrushed method of yesteryear. In March 2018 it showcased its senbei at a world confectionery event held in New York. The flavor of its senbei is noticeably different from that which is mass produced, the rice flavor lingering in the mouth after just a bite or two. It is easy to taste the difference between it and the mass produced type. We recommend the atsukatayaki (thick, hard grilled style) that cost 100 yen each. These are made with twice the amount of rice as a standard senbei cracker. This traditional Japanese treat makes an excellent gift or souvenir.

When you ride the Toden, you really should get the Toden Monaka (144 yen each) at Akemi for souvenirs to take back home with you. From around 1970 the various Toden lines began to disappear one after the other and fearing that the Arakawa Line would also succumb to such a fate, the previous generation owner of Akemi wanted to preserve its memory and created this confection for that purpose. This confection not only preserves the flavor of a traditional confectionery form, but also the spirit and mood of the area and its affection for the tram. During the year more than 30 different types of Japanese-style sweets are offered and among them are those having themes such as cherry blossoms and famous local places.

When you get off at the Oji Ekimae stop be sure to visit Sushiya no Yasuke. It has been serving take-out sushi for more than 40 years and among its many regular customers are families who have been coming regularly for over three generations. You will be amazed at the size of the portions at the reasonable prices charged. The neta fillings bulge from the large sushi rolls and are very filling. The negitoro (minced tuna and onions) are 260 yen each, the sea urchin rolls are 380 yen each, and the salmon roe 280 yen each. Other types of neta filling are also offered. The tamagoyaki (rolled omelet) used in the sushi rolls (380 yen each) is cooked here and sold to other shops as well.

The Sugamo Tokiwa Shokudo offers a selection of hearty set menus. This shop has been delighting local residents with its delicious handmade dishes for the past thirty years. Using only the freshest ingredients, it boasts its homemade pickles which have a long tradition. One very popular menu is the ebifurai (fried prawns); two 20 cm long prawns served on a bed of chopped cabbage with rice and pickles on the side (1,030 yen). Another is the sashimi moriawase (assorted sashimi plate) that uses different ingredients each day (760 yen). The potato salad (320 yen) is also always popular. A free second bowl of rice is also offered with each set meal. There are also half-size “mini assorted” dishes, so it is possible to enjoy several different types of dishes at the same time. There is also a menu available in English. And you can also order box lunches for takeout.

If you enter the Sugamo Jizo-dori shopping arcade after getting off at the Koshinzuka stop and walk down it about 10 minutes you will come to the Mizuno Japanese confectioner that for the past 80 years has been selling shiodaifuku (a soft, round, slightly salted rice cake stuffed with sweet bean jam) which it originated. The tsubu an (lumpy bean paste) has a salty flavor that subdues its natural sweetness which is perfectly matched by its soft mochi casing (130 yen each). Normally there are 15 to 20 varieties to choose from and occasionally seasonal items as well. The shop interior has not changed during the past 80 years and preserves the quiet, relaxed atmosphere of an old Japanese tea house. In addition to the sweets offered at the front of the store it is also possible to order light meals, like ramen. In the summer kakigori (shaved ice with various flavored syrup toppings is served (from 350 yen).

When the previous generation owner established this onigiri specialty shop in 1960 he played the bongos and he took that for the name of the shop hoping that its name would “ring loud and far” to attract customers and that is how the name of the shop, Onigiri Bongo, came about. His wish came true because the shop quickly gained a reputation not only among local residents but with visitors from afar for its onigiri, long lines of eager customers forming from its earliest days. It is possible to sit at a counter and place orders just like at a sushiya where you can watch the onigiri being prepared. The onigiri burst not only with flavor but ample portions of ingredients which number more than 50 types. The most popular is the standard salmon flake (250 yen). Takeout is also possible, so don’t be discouraged if it is crowded when you visit.

The Akamaru Bakery has been operated by the same family since the 1920s. This shop has a comfy atmosphere long-appreciated by local residents for its unhurried and careful preparation of bread products. A trademark of the bakery is the Akamaru Rusk (290 yen) but equally popular are the cream buns (145 yen including tax) and the custard pudding (145 yen including tax). The latter has an orthodox custard flavor that is simple and refined evoking nostalgia in older customers with a sweetness that makes one want to eat it every day. There is a corner in the shop where you can sit and enjoy these delicious items.

Shops along the Toden line are acclaimed by all the local residents as being solid pillars of the community. These are shops that exude the warm hospitality and affection of those communities and which are noted for their delicious products offered at very reasonable prices. When you have a day to spare, by all means take the time to visit these remarkable shops that line the Toden line and enjoy the wares they offer.

*Unless otherwise stated all prices include tax