In the northeastern region of Tokyo lies the quiet sanctuary of Yanesen, where visitors can glimpse into a Japan of yesteryear. Yanesen comprises the areas of Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi (taking the first letters of each name), each dotted with shrines, temples and small shops. Because the areas escaped World War II bombings, they have retained their original charm. Meander along quaint narrow streets, see old Japanese houses and shops, watch craftspeople prepare arts and crafts in authentic ways, and eat traditional sweets and snacks.
A visit to Yanesen provides an intriguing contrast to the more common scenes of modern Tokyo, such as the crowds at Shibuya Crossing, the buzz of electronics in Akihabara, dizzying lights of Shinjuku, and futuristic buildings of Odaiba. Here are 11 things you can do when you visit Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi, for an enchanting insight into Japan’s past.
1. Pass Through the Torii of Otome Inari at Nezu Shrine!

Nezu Shrine is a historic shrine said to have been founded by Yamato Takeru more than 1,900 years ago. Its grounds are famous for azaleas in bloom, as well as seven Important Cultural Properties, including the main shrine building and karamon gate.
After visiting the main shrine, stop by Otome Inari Shrine and walk through the rows of torii gates along the approach. Dedicated by worshippers as symbols of prayer and gratitude, these layered gates create a beautiful, almost otherworldly scene that adds to the shrine’s peaceful atmosphere.
2. Snack While Strolling Along Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street

Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street is about a five-minute walk from Nippori Station. Around 70 shops line both sides of this narrow, 160-meter-long street, creating a lively downtown atmosphere.
As you stroll, the smell of freshly prepared food drifts from local delis, while shopkeepers call out to passersby. It is a popular spot for walking and snacking, with must-try treats including the freshly fried Genki Menchi Katsu, a crispy minced domestic beef cutlet from Niku no Suzuki, and Chonmage Imo, sesame-sprinkled sweet potatoes from Chonmageimo Tamaru.
Menchi Katsu: A Perfect Snack for Strolling

Niku no Suzuki was established in 1933 as a specialty wagyu butcher shop before later becoming a deli. Its signature item is Genki Menchi Katsu, a deep-fried minced meat cutlet made with a well-balanced blend of quality belly and thigh meat, then fried in lard for a juicy, satisfying bite.
Another butcher shop in Yanaka Ginza, Niku no Sato, also sells excellent menchi katsu. Try both and compare the flavors for yourself.
3. Learn about Japanese Graves by Walking in Yanaka Cemetery

Yanaka Cemetery is located in Yanaka’s historic temple district and covers a spacious 100,000 square meters. Despite being a cemetery, it has a calm, open atmosphere filled with greenery, making it a pleasant place to appreciate Tokyo’s seasonal scenery.
In a typical Japanese burial, a gravestone is placed above the burial site, often inscribed with the person’s posthumous Buddhist name. After cremation, the ashes are placed beneath the grave. Family members visit from time to time to offer flowers, sweets, and prayers in memory of their ancestors.
Many famous painters, writers, actors, scholars, and politicians are also buried here. Following the signposts through the maze-like paths to find their graves can be an interesting way to explore the area.
Please remember that Yanaka Cemetery is a sacred place, so stroll quietly and respectfully.
4. Taste a Japanese Traditional Cultural Item, Amezaiku, in Sendagi

Amezaiku is a traditional Japanese candy craft in which artisans soften candy with heat, then shape it by hand using only their fingers and scissors. The craft is said to date back to the 8th century, and by the 1600s, amezaiku artisans were making and selling their creations in towns.
To see this delicate craftsmanship up close, visit Amezaiku Yoshihara. Inside the shop, artisans quickly transform thick starch syrup into beautiful figures right before your eyes. It is a great place to experience a traditional Japanese craft and enjoy the sweet taste of amezaiku.
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Amezaiku Yoshiharaあめ細工 吉原
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Address
Tomoe Building 1F, 1-23-5 Sendagi, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo, 113-0022, Japan
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Address
Tomoe Building 1F, 1-23-5 Sendagi, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo, 113-0022, Japan
5. Purchase Japanese Retro Goods in Yanaka

Isetatsu is a specialty shop for Edo chiyogami, a colorful type of traditional Japanese washi paper. Established in 1864, the shop was founded by Tatsugoro, who originally worked as a publisher of nishiki-e, or ukiyo-e color prints, as well as chiyogami paper.
Edo chiyogami is known for its vivid colors and patterns, which are printed onto washi paper using carved woodblocks. The shop carries a wide selection of items, from small Edo chiyogami goods to tenugui cotton hand towels and paper napkins.
With their strong connection to traditional Japanese design, these beautifully crafted items make excellent souvenirs.
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Isetatsuいせ辰
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Address
2-18-9 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo, 110-0001
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Address
2-18-9 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo, 110-0001
6. Yanaka is Known for Cats! Purchase an Array of Cat Paraphernalia

The area around Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street is known as a haven for cat lovers, with shops selling cat-themed goods and several cat cafes nearby. Even the local sweets get in on the theme, including the cute cat-tail doughnuts from Yanaka Shippoya and the cat-shaped Fuku Nyan Yaki cakes from Maneki-ya.
Kaiun Yanakado, located near Tokyo Metro’s Sendagi Station, is especially popular for its wide selection of maneki-neko, the beckoning cat figures believed to bring good luck. The shop also has a cafe space where you can paint your own maneki-neko while enjoying cakes.
Best of all, you can take your hand-painted maneki-neko home as a one-of-a-kind souvenir.
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Kaiun Yanakadou開運 谷中堂
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Address
5-4-3 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo, 110-0001
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Address
5-4-3 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo, 110-0001
7. Paint While Eating Cake in Yanaka

Café Nekoemon is located in one of four traditional terraced houses along Misaki-zaka. Here, you can paint your own becking cat while enjoying coffee or tea with adorable cat-shaped sweets.
Choose a palm-sized white maneki-neko and decorate it however you like using felt-tip pens. The cafe’s cat-shaped Mont Blanc cakes and eclairs are so cute, you may hesitate before taking the first bite.
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Cafe Nekoemonカフェ猫衛門
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Address
5-4-2 Ueno Sakuragi, Taito-ku, Tokyo, 110-0001
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Address
5-4-2 Ueno Sakuragi, Taito-ku, Tokyo, 110-0001
8. Try Some Old-Fashioned Japanese Sweets in Yanaka

Yanaka-Okanoeisen is a Japanese confectionery shop established in 1900. Its elegant wooden storefront is considered a Yanaka landmark, and the shop has become a popular stop along the walking route from Yanaka to Ueno.
The shop is especially known for its Mame Daifuku, a soft mochi cake filled with sweet bean paste, and Ukigusa, a baked confection. Each sweet is carefully handmade using traditional methods. According to the shop owner, they do not mass-produce their sweets, choosing instead to focus on quality and customer satisfaction.
As promised, each bite offers a gentle sweetness that slowly spreads across your palate. Yanesen is home to several long-established Japanese sweet shops, so be sure to stop by during your stroll.
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Yanaka-Okanoeisen谷中岡埜栄泉
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Address
6-1-26 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo, 110-0001
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Address
6-1-26 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo, 110-0001
9. Appreciate Artwork in a Yanaka Museum Converted from the Residence of a Famous Sculptor

The Asakura Museum of Sculpture is the former home and studio of Fumio Asakura, one of modern Japan’s leading sculptors. Asakura used the building as both his residence and studio for 29 years from 1935.
Inside, visitors can view his sculptures, mainly displayed in the former studio, as well as a distinctive Japanese garden designed with his own creative ideas.
Since the building was originally a private home, visitors are asked to remove their shoes before entering. Socks are required, and slippers or bare feet are not permitted.
10. Unwind and Experience Japanese Daily Life (and Cats!) at an Old Japanese Folk House Cafe in Yanaka

Nennekoya is a cafe located on the first floor of an old Japanese house on Miurazaka in Yanaka. Although it is a cafe, you may also spot cats relaxing, napping, or basking in the sun, giving the space a cozy, home-like atmosphere.
The menu includes roasted green tea, jasmine tea, black tea, and coffee, as well as curry rice and stew set meals. It is a relaxing place to enjoy tea while getting a feel for everyday life in Tokyo’s old downtown neighborhoods.
As you explore the area, you will pass private homes, temples, and small lanes, so be careful not to enter private property without permission.
The Cafe Specialty - "Nyan Curry"

Nyan Curry may look cute, but it has a spicy kick. When visiting Nennekoya, try the Nyan Curry Set, which comes with a drink and adorable cat paw-shaped rice-flour dumplings or cookies.
Enjoying curry while seated on tatami gives the experience a cozy, old-fashioned feel, almost like dining in a Japanese grandmother’s home. If you’re lucky, the cafe’s unpredictable cat staff may even greet you with their own special brand of feline hospitality.
(Note: Currently, meals are provided only to overnight guests; if you only wish to dine, you must inquire with the shop in advance.)
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Nennekoyaねんねこ家
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Address
2-1-4 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo, 110-0001
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Address
2-1-4 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo, 110-0001
11. Get to Know Some Nostalgic Japanese Buildings

Kyu-Iwasaki-tei Garden was built in 1896 as the main residence of Hisaya Iwasaki, eldest son of Yataro Iwasaki, the founder of Mitsubishi. Three buildings remain today: a two-story Western-style wooden house with a basement, a Swiss chalet-style wooden billiard room, and a Japanese-style house.
The Western-style house was used as a guesthouse for the Iwasaki family and is connected to the billiard room by an underground passage. The Japanese-style house served mainly as the family residence and is connected to the Western-style house by a corridor. Together, these buildings are designated Important Cultural Properties and offer a fascinating look at Japanese architecture of the period.
A visit to Yanesen, the area made up of Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi, reveals a different side of Tokyo. Exploring its historic streets, temples, old shops, and traditional homes will give you a deeper appreciation of the city’s striking contrast between modern and traditional life.
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